I think I’ve tried that, brim, skirt, and other approaches for bed adhesion. But for levelling, I’m not sure how that relates?
its for evading, that the “spout” hits the plate on one side, while laying the first layer into thin air on the other side of the print.
The raft is handy for a warped bed
Thanks Bill, no, I haven’t done that.
It’s not really applicable to my situation, but good to know.
I’m sure someone more patient than I could make my machine work well. In fact, if I level the nozzle to the center of the build plate, I can make fairly large parts; but not out to the extents of the build plate, where things will fail.
It doesn’t matter though, because even if that weren’t an issue,
- The nozzle can’t get hot enough for the material I want
- The bed can’t get hot enough for the material I want
- The build speed will never be good
- My upgrading give-a-crap meter is hovering around -23.
I started out some 6 years ago, all gung-ho on learning and modifying and buying upgraded parts. But that faded in a year or two.
So, I’m afraid I have to admit that I’m one of those who just want the dang thing printed. Well, multiples of the dang thing. Preferably with some reliability.
Wow Cliff I don’t know if I would have persisted with all those issues!
You’re probably going to be amazed with your next printer. Have a look at the videos that are raising questions about 0.4 nozzles becoming obsolete and consider getting an extra 0.6 to try out. I’ve just turned on my Aracne settings and an having trouble finding any detail deficiencies but getting faster print times.
Don’t throw out the old printer though. A Luke warm nozzle and cool print bed might come in handy other ways.