Cliff- They do make stop collars for drill bits. They are much more reliable than tape. You attach them to the bit by means of a hex (allen) screw. They will insure a repeatable depth every time.
You could make 1/4 inch plugs out of some 1/4 inch plexi or similar plastic material and then simply countersink the screws to a uniform 1/4 inch depth using the stop collar on the bit. The plugs should then fit perfectly.
-Kevin.
Thanks Kevin, sounds good. I’ll probably head in that direction.
The garage boxes are almost done, with the train entry hatch being the main thing not yet done. Here’s a shot of the boxes closed up.
And, the boxes open.
A closeup of the side hardware,
…and the top hold-up hooks.
The lids + sides are heavy to lift, but not too much (for now). I didn’t get to weighing the lift force, but I want to build things so I can work them 10 years from now. So I’ll add some kind of assist device, maybe the gas springs, maybe something cheaper. Need to think it over more.
Thanks for viewing,
Cliff
How many tracks can you fit in there? Looks like 3, possibly 4.
Nice job on that, BTW…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Hi Ken, thanks. It’s designed as a 3-track-wide garage, with switches enabling either 3 long trains, 6 short trains, or a mix.
Cliff,
What is going to close up the outside wall?
Of course you could go simple, a cable, pulley and counterweight. Not so much weight as to open themselves, but enough to lighten your load.
Dang Cliff!
Nice work!
Ok I’m editing: Just a thought, you might want to add some kind of metal handle(grab iron) strapped to the 2x4 on the lid framing under the starboard cutout. Wondering how long the starboard will hold up as a handle I guess? Perhaps use something like the other handles you have already? Something that will take the weight to the framing and not the starboard? Only thinking which is a fault of mine.
" Rooster " said:
Just a thought, you might want to add some kind of metal handle(grab iron) strapped to the 2x4 on the lid framing under the starboard cutout.
I’m surprised you didn’t suggest it needed ditch lights and MU cables…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Wow Cliff ! , That’s very nice. I’m very much looking forward to a point when I don’t have to carry everything out and consider something like this an almost necessity for any garden railroad. You have a nice space and design there. I always appreciate your bullet proof design approaches on all of your projects. Neat to see pictures of this Starboard too. I was recalling our conversation on it at the D&B and now want to get a piece in my hands for evaluation even more. One thing I might suggest is some type of ventilation. With all the plastic sheathing the structure might be inclined to hold moisture. Maybe some discrete lovers or screen beneath the track at one end, and a computer fan powered by a little solar panel whenever the sun’s out at the other end
Looking forward to the back drop and other finishing touches on this. You get an A+ so far.
Joe Zullo said:
Cliff,
What is going to close up the outside wall?
Joe, I’ll use the same blue plastic, and (eventually) make it a backdrop for the town.
Clouds will be lightly sprayed with Krylon Fusion. But for the mountains, I’ll probably adhere some tan roll roofing or something else that’s durable and paintable, and paint on that.
Cliff
David Maynard said:
Of course you could go simple, a cable, pulley and counterweight. Not so much weight as to open themselves, but enough to lighten your load.
I agree David, pulleys are the simplest approach. I’ve got some to play with this weekend, we’ll see how it goes. Only downside with a counterweight is that you have to leave it connected, and the cables would reach across the bench top… not a big deal though, because this has to stay openable anyway, so it’s not like I can really use it like a work bench.
So far, the various approaches stack up in my head like this:
A. Leave it as-is (at least for now).
B. Rig pulleys for manual pull. Disconnect when not in use.
C. Rig for counterweights (and leave connected).
D. Make a loose 4’ long handle, which is inserted beneath the benchtop as a lever.
E. Use gas springs (long-term solution).
I haven’t listed a 12v hoist (from Harbor frieght), because if something wasn’t disconnected properly you’d see plastic flyin’ (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
" Rooster " said:
Dang Cliff!
Nice work!
Ok I’m editing: Just a thought, you might want to add some kind of metal handle(grab iron) strapped to the 2x4 on the lid framing under the starboard cutout. Wondering how long the starboard will hold up as a handle I guess? Perhaps use something like the other handles you have already? Something that will take the weight to the framing and not the starboard? Only thinking which is a fault of mine.
Thanks Rooster! Yep, with a notch in the lower starboard, that would work. I’ll save that as a backup plan, in case there’s any degradation.
Randy Lehrian Jr. said:
Wow Cliff ! , That’s very nice. I’m very much looking forward to a point when I don’t have to carry everything out and consider something like this an almost necessity for any garden railroad. You have a nice space and design there. I always appreciate your bullet proof design approaches on all of your projects. Neat to see pictures of this Starboard too. I was recalling our conversation on it at the D&B and now want to get a piece in my hands for evaluation even more. One thing I might suggest is some type of ventilation. With all the plastic sheathing the structure might be inclined to hold moisture. Maybe some discrete lovers or screen beneath the track at one end, and a computer fan powered by a little solar panel whenever the sun’s out at the other end
Looking forward to the back drop and other finishing touches on this. You get an A+ so far.
Very kind of you Randy, thanks very much!
Good point on the louvers, I know of a marine surplus place that might have some cheap ones… hmmm… And these are pretty cheap,
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--stainless-steel-louvered-vents--P000226993
Thanks for the idea!
Rooster, I’ve been looking into the gas springs, and ran across a great deal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MUY656/ref=s9_hps_bw_g263_i4
120 lbs per, and less than $10 each! (They have lesser forces and different lengths, btw). Cheaper than the pair of stainless pulleys I bought at Lowes today.
But… the geometry just isn’t working. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)After a number of iterations and spring choices, I ALMOST got it to work, but the dangling box lid was interfering, as was the thickness of the lid.
I would have needed to design the box interiors for this, allowing space for the spring in all its positions, without knocking a loco or over. Maybe 4" more in width. But, maybe someone else will give it a shot. Here’s a calc page, fwiw.
http://www.gecea.com/hatchlifters/gas-springs
Cliff
Rooster, I’ve been looking into the gas springs, and ran across a great deal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MUY656/ref=s9_hps_bw_g263_i4
120 lbs per, and less than $10 each! (They have lesser forces and different lengths, btw). Cheaper than the pair of stainless pulleys I bought at Lowes today.
But… the geometry just isn’t working. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)After a number of iterations and spring choices, I ALMOST got it to work, but the dangling box lid was interfering, as was the thickness of the lid.
I would have needed to design the box interiors for this, allowing space for the spring in all its positions, without knocking a loco or over. Maybe 4" more in width. But, maybe someone else will give it a shot. Here’s a calc page, fwiw.
http://www.gecea.com/hatchlifters/gas-springs
Cliff
Cliff,
Can’t help you with the geometry cause I’m not there. It was only a suggestion that I thought might work. Either way the build looks great so far!
OK…instead of mounting then inward below the hinges why not on the outside wall>
Thanks anyway Rooster, a good suggestion regardless!
Kevin and David M., Lowes had plug cutters and bit collars, so I’m looking forward to trying those out, and will post on how they work with the plastic.
Cliff, I think what you need are torsion springs.
It looks like the hinges create enough of a gap that you could insert a few in between the two 2x 4’s . Worst case, you may have to mill a bit of a pocket in each side to accommodate a larger diameter coil? But you could go with a smaller diameter and just use more springs. Although I’m sure coil diameter is only one factor in the amount of torque a given spring will produce.
Edit to say: Actually now that I look closer they would go between a 2x4 and a 2x6 not two 2x4’s. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)
