Large Scale Central

Under-the-deck train storage project

Since it’s fairly time-consuming to haul locos and cars from indoor shelves to the layout for running, I’ve wanted a storage barn to house a couple of trains that are ready to go.

The only real opportunity for this has been under a narrow deck that runs the length of our house on its back side. Last year I dug out a lot of dirt from beneath this structure, so that I could walk upright without a hard hat. Here’s the basic design.

The lower platform is the track “deck,” and the higher level is just the top of three boxes (and a sort of storage table for off-season). These boxes are the lockable storage “barn.” To hide it all, I’d like to put up a backdrop of sorts.

After finally completing my cleanup of trees we had to drop and chop, last weekend I began construction. I needed two more posts (in the foreground) to allow the backdrop to be a straight line.

Then came the start of the “track deck.” This first section was tougher, because it includes part of a ramp that comes up from the layout.

The rest of this deck was easier. It needed a few stubby posts to hold it up, but was otherwise fairly straightforward.

It took me a day to make the frames for the box tops and sides, and another day to install them with their hinges (and get them working ok). I’m not a quick carpenter by any means.

Here’s one of the boxes folded up. Handles and hasps will come later, for lockable storage. I’ll probably want counterweights or block & tackle, they’re heavy.

The last bit of framing was the remainder of the lead-in ramp which, due to its weird interaction with a stairway, required a bit of thinking for each piece. And another post.

Here’s the completed ramp.

Connecting this ramp with the layout track will be a short (~15’) ribbon of concrete roadbed. Before that though, I’d like to get all the sheathing installed for deck, boxes and backdrop. That’ll be the next big step, which might take a while.

Cliffy

That is some heavy duty construction and the perfect place for train storage.

Here’s one of the boxes folded up. Handles and hasps will come later, for lockable storage. I’ll probably want counterweights or block & tackle, they’re heavy.

That double set of hinges is a great idea. Look like you’ll have easy access from the top and the side of the storage area. Brilliant!

-Kevin.

Very nice , wish I had room for something like you got there.

Very nice and a great use of the space

Thanks Todd, Mike and Devon, glad you like it!

BTW, notice the orange stain on the lower part of the basement wall, in the first photograph. That’s how much dirt had to be removed for this. Fortunately, the deck builder poured nice deep footers for the posts.

Keven, thanks, very kind of you to say. They’ll be heavy to lift, but I was mainly designing for cheap materials (2x4’s), so that’s the downside. But I’m pleased you like 'em.

Cliff

Do you get much snow/rain under there?

How weather proof are you planning to make it?

really nice so far!

Cliff that’s some nice heavy duty carpentry there. Looks good so far

a day! not a quick carpenter! my a…!

such clean an exact work in that time - i would hire you any time for carpentry work!

That’s funny Korm! Thanks much, I always feel like I’m going in slow motion, compared to some. Thanks Bob. I’m afraid it’s overkill strength-wise, but 2x4’s and 2x6’s are cheap, and easy to work with, so…

Sean, glad you asked. The rain drips through the deck, and snow piles up. So rather than a wood product, I’m using Starboard (a polyethylene product) for all the sheathing and backdrop. It became available in a surplus situation, so that made it affordable for the project. Prior to that opportunity, my initial plan for sheathing was plywood skinned with self-adhesive roll roofing.

Cliff

Cliff Jennings said: I’m using Starboard (a polyethylene product) for all the sheathing and backdrop.

I will be waiting to see how well you do with the Starboard !

I got a start today on that plastic sheathing, beginning with the “track deck.”

Took all day to cut & fit these 4 pieces, make framing adjustments, etc. I used deck screws, with countersunk holes.

Cheers,

Cliff

When you secure it on the outside surfaces, are you going to seal the screws with something?

Looks good Cliff…yes it might be overkill on the framing but so what!

Rooster, you don’t have to lift them open.

David, probably not; the screws are coated deck screws, and the plastic conforms to them as the screw is driven in, making a pretty good seal there. For the backdrop surfaces though, I might fill them with a paintable caulk, not sure.

Another hole-fill method I’m considering, I’ve read that a standard hole plug cutter can be used on this material. I’ve never tried that process, and I’m not sure how to get perfect-depth holes drilled into the 1/2" sheet. But it might be worth looking into.

Hi Rooster, and thanks!

Today I’ll hopefully get the sheathing onto the box parts, and see how hard it is to lift.

Cliff, if you had a drill press, setting the depth stop is easy. With a hand held power drill, I have put masking tape around the bit so I can visually tell when I have reached the proper depth. But once I accidentally go too deep, I have to redo the masking tape.

Cliff Jennings said:

Today I’ll hopefully get the sheathing onto the box parts, and see how hard it is to lift.

Cliff,

If you feel they are too heavy to open and want some extra boost. I noted you talked about counterweights and pulleys possibly but a thought came to mind to use hatchback struts. You would want hatchback not just trunk lid cause they hatch has glass and most times a spoiler so the struts are much more heavy duty. …here is an example…http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_8195399/BK_8195399_0342285851

" Rooster " said: What have you done with David Russell?

Thanks David, sounds like hole plugs isn’t too tough then. These will be in large sheets, so it’ll have to be a hand drill op. I get the tape method, but maybe there’s a hole drill & plug-cutter set, with the drill having some kind of built-in stop. Hmmm…

Just saw this article, looks like I need the counterbore with adjustable stop, and the plug cutter. But, I just realized I’d also need 1/4" thick sheet to make the plugs from.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-to-make-and-install-custom-wood-plugs/

Rooster, yeah, I love those. If the geometry works (if they clear the trains), and I can get the forces right, that’s definitely an option. Thanks for posting that link, I’ll check em out.

Cliff