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Recent Forum Posts
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From a strictly engineer's (not choo choo, calculator guy) point... moreFrom a strictly engineer's (not choo choo, calculator guy) point of view. It is very expensive to enlarge a tunnel. It is possible and has been done, but it has to outweigh the alternative. At this time it must be too dang expensive.
To answer Ray's question. A simple and probably cheaper solution would be to drive a second smaller ventilation tunnel parallel to the Cascade. Then install connecting drifts between the Cascade and new vent tunnel. Install ventilation fans in these new drifts to pull the air away from the train and into the ventilation tunnel and then push the bad air out. With this solution you would be able to have almost continuous movement of traffic because you would not have to mess with pressuring the tunnel and pushing air. less
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Thanks Jake, I plan to start with track power as cost is a... moreThanks Jake, I plan to start with track power as cost is a huge obstacle
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do i need to get risers below frost line or is that not an issue?
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Korm Kormsen said:
i don't have that.but i have an idea for you,... moreKorm Kormsen said:
i don't have that.but i have an idea for you, wheels of 60mm (about 2 and a quarter inch)bigger than the 2" drivers of the big hauler.they come on a dummy loco, that is pushed by a motorized tender."Steaming Mary" from playmobil. no more new ones, only used over ebay.http://www.diegmann.info/pm/pm4054.jpg
I realized the B'mann big hauler is very close to the size I think will work. I'd like to use drivers that have more spokes so I think I should try and find the wheels to the Playmobil 4-4-0. (might be a bit difficult though)
Bruce, the Thomas wheels are very close looking to the locomotive in my photo. Emily's drivers are too bit, probably better used if I was to build a Crampton 4-2-0. Also I think you can only buy the wheels and motor block as one unit from Bachmann, not individually. less
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Welcome Shad. Dont let anyone bad mouth you for the MLS thing. Y... moreWelcome Shad. Dont let anyone bad mouth you for the MLS thing. You had to set priorities and that is your business. Some one once said, "The easiest way to ruin a hobby is to try and make a profit by it."
Just enjoy running the trains around and contribute wherever you can.
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Definitely stay away from Bachmann, sort of. Stay away from the Big Hauler line. That is pressed metal rail. It will rust very quickly, it is not meant for outdoor use. Bachmann has introduced a line of solid metal track and that should be suitable for outdoor use. Its pretty new so there isnt a lot people using it yet.
The material for your track is really dependent on what you are using for an operating system. track power (DC power pack), DCC or battery/RC
... moreDefinitely stay away from Bachmann, sort of. Stay away from the Big Hauler line. That is pressed metal rail. It will rust very quickly, it is not meant for outdoor use. Bachmann has introduced a line of solid metal track and that should be suitable for outdoor use. Its pretty new so there isnt a lot people using it yet.
The material for your track is really dependent on what you are using for an operating system. track power (DC power pack), DCC or battery/RC
If you are using track power or DCC, you will need a constant reliable connection between the track and your locomotives, which requires cleaning the rail. So you will favor materials that dont tarnish as much. Keep in mind all metals will tarnish in an outdoor environment. Some just arent as much. RC/Batt does not rely on a connection with the rails and so it doesnt require clean track.
Brass will tarnish pretty easily and so it is not an ideal material for track power or DCC. It is ok for RC/Batt (This the material I use because I use RC/Bat... less
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Great Bob, andBIG
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Total newb here. I've read around the forum a bit but what... moreTotal newb here. I've read around the forum a bit but what I am after is some methods or how to's for raised trackwork. I seen some pics of using mixed wood, for stringers, trex for stringer. Is there a source of methods you guys can point me to and what might be good for my climate vs what to avoid. I am in the northern part of WV--so temps from 0-100 as typical.
I think from what I am reading--to avoid backman track--but brass is the way to go. Any thoughts? Also joining track has just as many methods with no clear victor as far as methods? less
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Price point
And looking at the ones I acquired via contest and recently $5 a pkg (4) for a grand total 6 pkg of k'd's, i just don't see how they can be so reliable in pulling saaaay 20+ car trains if you chooose to ... I'll stik with my H'n'Ls thank you
... morePrice point
And looking at the ones I acquired via contest and recently $5 a pkg (4) for a grand total 6 pkg of k'd's, i just don't see how they can be so reliable in pulling saaaay 20+ car trains if you chooose to ... I'll stik with my H'n'Ls thank you
But I do retain the ones I do have for mounting on items that maybe for show or as is the case of the RDC unit do not forecast lashing up to something else.
BTW anyone have a link for kadee mounting to the RDC3 ?
I might as well do a body mount, eh !?
thanks for any info,
doug c less
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Curmudgeon mcneely said:
Well....I think youse guys missed it. R... moreCurmudgeon mcneely said:
Well....I think youse guys missed it. Remember very recently when one Scott "found" a container of track?Wonder which ship it fell off of?
ROTFLMAO
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John Bouck said:
How GN solved the problem in the early 1900's.
... moreJohn Bouck said:
How GN solved the problem in the early 1900's.
I'd forgotten about those, JB. Any idea on how well they worked? It looks like the exhaust would back draft right into the cab.
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