Hey folks
Over the last couple of weeks, the site has experienced odd slowness, usually in the evening. I've been tr... moreHey folks
Over the last couple of weeks, the site has experienced odd slowness, usually in the evening. I've been tracking it down, and made some change to help. Watching the site last night, I didnt see any errors like we have been getting the last several days. Still keeping an eye on it.
And now, a warning. Complaints about inappropriate content are on the rise again. You know who you are, you've been warned and suspended before. Knock it off or the suspension is permanent next time. less
Dylan,
for some reason I cannot send you a message. please contact me. I am very interested in the parts you have made for the C... moreDylan,
for some reason I cannot send you a message. please contact me. I am very interested in the parts you have made for the C-18 as they may save me some heartburn. I do intend to modify the frame to get correct wheel spacing.
Great points Dave, thanks for that. I'll try to remember them when I bring out my Aristo plow. Force doesn't always scale down t... moreGreat points Dave, thanks for that. I'll try to remember them when I bring out my Aristo plow. Force doesn't always scale down the way we'd wish!
This model though is mainly cosmetic; the resin isn't super strong. It could push light stuff in a photo shoot, but not much else.
Rooster, now that I know you'll be looking, for sure I'll bring 'er out on a snowy day and take a pic.
Ric Golding said:
Pete,
.
Obviously the Box Cab can earn its keep. Great sound! Thanks for the build log.... moreRic Golding said:
Pete,
.
Obviously the Box Cab can earn its keep. Great sound! Thanks for the build log.
You and Pete obviously come from the same" box cab" family that likes to cut off the engineers legs ! I'm not old enough for that just yet ....I think ?
I'm hanging in there Doug? And track laid??? Am I supposed to be laying track?
I have been working on Christmas pre... moreI'm hanging in there Doug? And track laid??? Am I supposed to be laying track?
I have been working on Christmas presents and started helping Steves wife sort and catalogue Steve's train stuff to sell. She needs to move soon. So I am helping her out. Stay tuned i will be offering a bunch to the LSC family. She wants our local club to get first shot at it then LSC before it goes to the mercy of EBAY.
The proper solution is a voltage regulator, and I found a little board that outputs 12V from anything up to 35V. We will see how... moreThe proper solution is a voltage regulator, and I found a little board that outputs 12V from anything up to 35V. We will see how that works.
And the answer is - nada, zilch. I have 3 of them, and all output 5V, not 12V. I checked my order - they must have shipped me the wrong one.
over the years i noticed, that non electric driven LGB switches work "stronger" (with more resistance to cut them open) in one d... moreover the years i noticed, that non electric driven LGB switches work "stronger" (with more resistance to cut them open) in one direction.
in some cases just screwing the switchdrive to the other side of the switch helps enough.
The boys and I did some fiddling this morning. We could move the turnout a little bit, but then we would have... moreDave,
The boys and I did some fiddling this morning. We could move the turnout a little bit, but then we would have to move the blue building just visible in the photo. Normally, this would not be a problem, but the building also houses two light switches that control power to neighboring passing sidings. There is not enough slack in the current wires. I have a broader plan to allow the crew to turn more tracks on and off in this area. I can address this turn-out when I get to that project. Fixing everything would disrupt operations on both the "mainline" (the outer loop) and the "plantation line" (the inner loop) and require small structures to house the 3 new on/off switches or a modification to the blue building housing the existing switches to do the same. I am going to put this in the "thought problem" category for now, as we are about ready to unleash the Advent / Christmas season upon the House of Mueller.
i still prefer incandecent bulbs for their softer light. their big advantage: when hooked to an H0 regulated transformer, one ca... morei still prefer incandecent bulbs for their softer light. their big advantage: when hooked to an H0 regulated transformer, one can change the brightness with the turn of a finger.
and when they burn out, i do the same as in the 1:1 household. i change them.
that is easy, because i use bulbs from the old chrismas chains, the sort we had before the LED chains.
pluck the old one out and stick the new ones in.
between white, yellow and red, one can imitate lamps and fire as needed.
i have still a lifetime stock squirreled away. (only the blues and greens went into the wastebin.) less
I finished my little caboose in the spring, and it is taking up space that I need for the next project.
The thread... moreI finished my little caboose in the spring, and it is taking up space that I need for the next project.
The thread I posted about building it is here (short - 1 page):
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/30471/beating-the-boredom-peter-ts-small-caboose
It comes with two roof options - cupola or flat:
The darn thing goes for $130 on Ozark's website, which I realize is a bit steep for a bobber caboose. Anyone want this one for $75 plus shipping?
Pete: Thanks for the ideas on how to keep things in place. I like the corrupt threads. Simple.
As to adjustments, my main... morePete: Thanks for the ideas on how to keep things in place. I like the corrupt threads. Simple.
As to adjustments, my main worry is friction. Right now the chain seems too tight but when I add another link it looked too floppy. So I want to loosen it just a smidge. My plan is to go back in with the drill bit on the holes for the front sprocket supports and just "widen" them a bit so I have some play and can adjust it within a link distance. Should be easy peasy (hah! now I'll probably draw blood!).
I unscrew the slotted screw holding the siderod mechanisims to the axle. Then I remove the front and rear motor block scre... moreI unscrew the slotted screw holding the siderod mechanisims to the axle. Then I remove the front and rear motor block screws. Now the whole motor block can be lowered for easy access to the wheels/tires to be replaced. This also gets you to the top of the block if motor replacement is needed.
Well - I guess my price was right because #12 got snapped right up by a guy who lives not far from Bob and Stan. He advertised I... moreWell - I guess my price was right because #12 got snapped right up by a guy who lives not far from Bob and Stan. He advertised ISO on Facebook this morning and had no less than 4 offers to sell him one.
#10 is still pending, but likely sold as well. Thanks everyone!
Thanks, Ken. As I remember every Thanksgiving, going to the church service (I think there were 7 of us) and then to the Mess Hal... moreThanks, Ken. As I remember every Thanksgiving, going to the church service (I think there were 7 of us) and then to the Mess Hall. The Officers were the last to eat, and we had Rabbit. They had run out of Turkey.
P.S. I could always trade for all of the Ham & Lima Beans I could eat.
It will do ok ...but you have to be patient and cut a little @ a time it will bog or bind.
I just lower it down and take a quick... moreIt will do ok ...but you have to be patient and cut a little @ a time it will bog or bind.
I just lower it down and take a quick cut etc...
Cutting is easier than a dremel which will want ro run away ..
As I continue to get excited about a move to RailPro, I find that I have several unused G-Scale Graphics Railboss Plus Hobby boa... moreAs I continue to get excited about a move to RailPro, I find that I have several unused G-Scale Graphics Railboss Plus Hobby boards, plus a few more and a few of the earlier enhanced boards installed in locos that will eventually be replaced. These are the ones that utilize a 2-Stick R/C transmitter and receiver pair. I can include a receiver with each board, but am keeping my 2-stick for my live steam.
Originally, the board without receiver sold for around $80. I don't recall the receiver price, but most of mine are clones and not expensive. Documentation is available via PDF from me or the G-Scale Graphics website. I'm thinking $75 for a controller/receiver pair shipped anywhere in the lower 48 via USPS would be reasonable. Or, make an offer.
These are pics of the board and receiver I have installed in my C-19 for reference.
EDIT to add:
The Plus version features (among other things) great resolution speed control, forward or reverse, light output... less
Richard Mynderup said:
Andy, that is what I'm planning to do...I'm thinking of going all the way to where that lantern is hangin... moreRichard Mynderup said:
Andy, that is what I'm planning to do...I'm thinking of going all the way to where that lantern is hanging.
Cool....
If you have not heard, Robbie is having a Thanksgiving Weekend sale. On-Line only. 7% off website prices on purchases $250... moreIf you have not heard, Robbie is having a Thanksgiving Weekend sale. On-Line only. 7% off website prices on purchases $250-$749 and 10% off $750 or more.
If you want to try the PLAYMOBIL route, the recently reissued the longhorn skull with a couple of Wild West figurines. The... moreIf you want to try the PLAYMOBIL route, the recently reissued the longhorn skull with a couple of Wild West figurines. There parts department is really helpful in getting bits and pieces, and they don't jack you with $15 in shipping for a $1 part.
