Large Scale Central

Your thoughts and advice on track plan: Part 2

In my original post asking for your thoughts and advice on a track plan, I said that I might have access to a long, narrow strip of backyard to set up a temporary layout. Well, today, DW not only gave up on trying to grow anything under the pittosporum trees, but she said she was tired of picking leaves out of the cocoa shell ground cover and was gonna go with bare earth.

So I said,“Maybe I should just throw some track down on it, heh, heh.”

No response one way or another, but I think I could finesse my way into building something, so here we go.

What do ya do with 5 x 22 feet, plus an odd-shaped 3-foot end section? There are those three trees pretty much in the middle of the bed and their rootballs are about 1 foot in diameter. This means the tracks will either have to straddle the trees, or avoid them by staying either in front of, or behind them.

I’m thinking a switching layout, pretty much linear, since there’s no room for a loop unless I run track out onto the flagstone patio. As I said elsewhere, I have about 200 feet of Aristo and USA trains brass straight, and three, #6 Aristo turnouts. Plus various radius curves.

I prolly need more switches, ya?

Gentlemen, start your track planning apps.

Hi Joe
I responded to your other post. I’m still for the elevated section especially when it comes to a yard area. Lots of switches on the ground is not a fun mix. If I were you I would build up even if it is only a foot or 2 and straddle those trees. Keep in mind access. Can you walk around this spot because you won’t be able to reach across 5 feet. You could run most equipment through a 5 foot diameter curve if you wanted to. I found if the track was level side to side I could use my bachmann 2-6-6-2 on a tight curve I have. It doesn’t look pretty but it makes it.

I do like continous running but switching is fun too. I also think that a train needs a place to go. With your 200 feet of track can you get out of this new yard area without too much trouble? maybe via a removable span?

My recent yard construction is 30" wide by 16’ long plus a small add on piece that gives 2 runaround tracks 2 extra feet. My layout site is anything but level like yours is so it was tough to conquer the slope and keep the grades doable. I measured the yard area and in a 32’ length the land drops from 12" to 48". The track is kept level. It is so nice to be able to see the trains up close at near eye level without having to kneel or lay on the ground. Plus this raised bench area is easier to clean than if it was on the ground.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/newbench51913.jpg)

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/yarddesignfinal.jpg)

Good luck and keep us posted

5 x 22 ? well you know me, I’d have a field day and R1 everything and build a nice mining or logging layout, but given your circumstances (re:scale and stock) I’m a little reluctant to offer suggestions.

Having a plan showing everything in the way would be helpful

Sounds perfect for a Timesaver connected to an Inglenook ala Ric Golding’s portable set up.

Rics design is for 1:22.5 / 1:24 equipment. You can run a Shay or a Porter on it but that’s about it for 1:20.3 locos.

Or, it can be done with a NW-2, 44 tonner or and S-4, and made into a model industrail area for switiching… Everything in the world doesn’t need to be narrow guage… hehehe

There’s something other than 3 foot gauge? Who would have thunk it.

Ric’s Timesaver…

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/rgolding/080608%20024.jpg)

Great ideas, gang. My mind is working–kinda.

Todd, raised anything won’t fly because for esthetics sake it would prolly have to be ringed with flagstone to match the flower planter on the opposite side of the patio. That’s our view garden, and my wife’s pride and joy, at least until this latest downy mildew invasion, which is devastating the imaptiens. Another thing is that the trees would have to sit in wells, as the planter would be higher than the ground (duh!).

BUT, BUT, I do like your track layout, Todd. It’s exactly what I’m looking for. And it does reinforce what I asked, rhetorically. Namely, that I will need some more turnouts. I have a little nest egg that I’ve been saving just to buy track, so I can dip into that and get them switches. The three I have are powered and I must say that when they were wired up on my living room floor some time ago, I was cool to push a button on my Aristo Train Engineer and activate the throws. Not that Ten Milles are bad, Bruce (heh, heh).

Jon, yes, Timesaver crossed my mind too. Actually, Todd’s layout looks very Tinesaver-ish.

With not a wheel turning (I’m a waitin’ for that battery to arrive for my Bug Mauler conversion), I’m already thinking of maybe some building flats to kinda conceal the fence. Another cart before the horse…:slight_smile:

Vic et all, here’s what the space looks like. Sorry about the klutsy Photoshop work. I’m still learning how to 'Shop.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/Planter.jpg)

Those #6 switches are going to eat up that 22’ in a hurry. You may want to consider going with the Aristo 5’ radius switches (or #4 switches from other sources) instead. Nothing against the #6 switches–they’re what I use on my railroad–but they take up a lot of space. My passing siding at Neeleyton is almost 20’ from just the ends of the outermost switches, which leaves you no room for a lead on one end or the other.

In terms of track plans, check out the switching puzzle track plans on the home page here. I used one of them as the basis for my 18" x 15’ shelf railroad in the workshop. With an extra 3’ of width to play with, I’d consider doing something like that, and perhaps an additional spur to give you plenty of variety in operations.

Later,

K

Kevin, er, umm, I’m embarrassed to say that I don’t know what size those switches really are, although I believe they are 8-foot diameter, and not the extra wide ones. All’s I can say is that they’re about 18-inches long and about 6-inches wide. That doesn’t seem all that big. Right?

I’ll check out the plans you mentioned tomorrow. Right now it’s sleepy time.

BTW, I ordered two more Aristo lefts and two rights. If I knew what I planned to do I would have ordered the appropriate number to suit my track plan. But when I went to the Aristo site I panicked, thinking I better get what I can when I can. After all, the sky is falling!

Oh, one more thing: how long is your passing siding? I intend to run very short trains, as I just read an MR book about layouts and decided short lines are the way to go.

Joe if you build up your trackwork you don’t have to back fill anything. You just let the existing plants grow around the benchwork. Where it will be really visible build a bridge or trestle.
This area is along the far end of my layout where visitors normally don’t tread. It is not really visible but the way my yard dropped off it would have been tons and tons of dirt to bring it up.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/ElevatedSection.jpg)

Another option is to build a very low bench for your switching yard. This is a photo of my original yard under construction in 2007.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/capecodtodd/_forumfiles/OldYard2.jpg)
I feel that by keeping the several switches needed for a working yard out of the dirt your switching experience will be better. It is no fun when your backing train derails over a piece of debri or a switch that isn’t level or you have points that won’t close because they are packed with dirt from the last rain fall.
In other areas where my track is at ground level I have my switches sitting on concrete patio blocks which keeps them level and I don’t use ballast around them.
Just some ideas and observations.

…what Todd said.

Jon Radder said:

Sounds perfect for a Timesaver connected to an Inglenook ala Ric Golding’s portable set up.

Rics design is for 1:22.5 / 1:24 equipment. You can run a Shay or a Porter on it but that’s about it for 1:20.3 locos.

The most used engine on the Timesaver is a 1:20.3 Bachmann Heisler. I have used all 1:20.3 freight cars with this puzzle at the National Narrow Gauge Convention, where the observers might be a little more critical. But the 1:22,5 and smaller older 1:20.3 flat cars work better for show display. The 1:20.3 bigger cars are harder to transport and I’ve never really tuned all of them to extremely smooth operations. My bad.

AS far as rasied benchwork goes…I know some of you have seen these photos prreviously…

BEFORE

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/080420105.jpg)

AFTER

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/07141306.jpg)

I hope that the plants fill in more of the dirty spots next year as they are still in a transplant phase this year. Oh and this is a K on a 12’ curve

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/06221301.jpg)

Joe,

How about a quarry track or temporary lumber trackage to the cutting fields. Use those trees as the obstacles the trackage has to work around. Transfer platform close to area you can get to and negotiate the route back to where you can or need to load whatever you are hauling. Mulch is a great product that needs to be hauled. Haul it out and haul rock in. Move tracks to new areas as you correct the area with the proper ground cover, whatever it is. No fair using a 5 gallon bucket.

Great idea, Ric.

I have to admit I liked that idea too, Ric. I mean if you have to be at ground level, you might as well do something useful while you’re down there. I really think, though, that while Joe’s doing all this penance he ought to wear grossly oversized shoes and a red rubber nose. :wink: