Large Scale Central

Yet another diecast bash, the making of a 10-20 McCormick

As many of you have already found, there’s pretty much doodly available in the way of farm machinery that’s anywhere near the right size to use with LS… There’s also even less in the way of pre-depression machinery from ANY major manufacture. And I’m doing a layout set in 1925, at our antique farm machinery club… What there IS - a 1918 Waterloo Boy/John Deere Overtime tractor, in 1/32 by Ertl…

Right era, wrong size. Especially since the Waterloo Boy model R only CAME in one size. Can it be remade into something else? Those wheels would be pretty small rescaled to 1/24 (ie 24" front, 42" rear) … Enter the McCormick-Deering 10-20 a very small tractor produced from 1923 to 1940

The first step was to remove everything from the Waterloo Boy that DIDN’T look like a McCormick… there wasn’t a whole lot left. (Warning: this is a LOT of cutting and grinding - especially to separate the gearbox from the left fender!)

Next I made some pieces that looked more like a 10-20 - from wood. The funny shaped piece was done with a sanding drum in the drill press.

Not a scale model, but the right size, and recognizable, I think…

I need to make a few small mods yet to get the details a little closer, then make a twin to it and mount them both on a flatcar

Cool stuff mik. I want to make a steam tractor to power my sawmill. Where can I find one that would work and what would I have to do to it? I like what you did with yours but im sort of clueless on where to start and find a suitable tractor. Thanks

A steam tractor is easy. Just call George at Kester’s Old-Time Collectables in Illinois. http://kestersoldtimecollectables.com/ He has 8 different traction engines, 2 portables, and 2 skid engines in approximately 1:25. Or will sell you just the wheels and other parts if you really want to build one yourself. $65 or so may sound expensive, until you realize that people are paying $125 for one in HO (You can sometimes find them cheaper on feebay, but it might take 6 months… only you can decide what your time is worth)

As for what you HAVE to do to them, besides give the little cast guy a 1/4 turn to remove him… nothing. You CAN dress them up quite a bit. Tell me which one you’re interested in, and I’ll scrounge up prototype photos (I only have enough to fill 5 or 6 photo albums, lol)

2nd choice, Scale Models made a Case engine in 1/24 20 years ago… scarce as hen’s teeth because they didn’t sell very well.

3rd choice, Ertl made their “Millennium” 65 HP Case, in 1/16 scale. Very detailed, and it CAN be reworked into a 1/20 or so 110HP fairly easily. A lot of 110s ended up running sawmills after the prairie was broke… if you like big stuff, and can find one for less than about $90, then you might want to consider this route.

4th choice, If I can find a source for 2" flywheels, I’ll build you a nice portable from wood, plastic and whatever else I scrounge… for about $50 or so… but you might have to wait a month or two.

Mik Thanks for all the info. I did check out that site and they do have some real nice stuff although Im not sure about spending that much on something thats going to be outside year round. Ill have to keep my eyes open or make one using parts from tractors etc… If you have some shots of a simple traction engine I can use to go by that would be another great start for me. Im just looking for something simple that will fit with my sawmill either wheels or skids. If I cant find anything then I will no doubt bite the bullet and get one of those from the site or take you up on your offer. Thanks again and im sure I will have many more questions.

If you’ll have patience grasshopper, I’ll probably be building another something soon enough, and I’ll post photos of the various steps. Meanwhile: 1. Although not quite as ‘sexy’, a portable is much easier to scratchbuild build than a traction engine - no platform, gearing or steering stuff to mess with. Wagon wheels (about 2" to 2-1/2") are easy to find and fairly cheap. 2. a side crank engine is easier to model than a center crank, especially if you want it to be able to turn. 3. A return flue boiler is easier to model than a locomotive type, but gives you fewer prototypes to choose from. 4. How hard it will be to build depends upon your ‘idiotgenuity’, time, tools, and the level of detail you are satisfied with. Some various makes of portables to consider, depending on what floats your boat Aultman-Taylor

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/aultman.jpg)

Frick

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/P8010056a.jpg)

Advance

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/P7040006.jpg)

Robert Bell

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/robertbell.jpg)

Peerless

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/peerless.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/peerless2.jpg)

Huber

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/BabyHuber.jpg)

Case

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/36case.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/earlycase.jpg)

Russell

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/russellport.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/russell2-1.jpg)

Gaar-Scott

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/35HPGaar-Scott.jpg)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/gaarscott.jpg)

Port Huron

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/porthuron.jpg)

Or if you want something just a little different…How about a Westinghouse?

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/henrysportable.jpg)

An Owens, Lane and Dyer perhaps?

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/owens2.jpg)

Or maybe a 20th Century?

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/18728h.jpg)

Or pick the details and colors you like best and freelance one… 95% of people won’t know, or probably much care. Just to help (confuse) you on your way Gardner Governor

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/bnorth09022.jpg)

Waters governor

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/WatersGovernor.jpg)

Pickering Governor

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/show%20collage/pickering.jpg)

Next question? lol Oh, BTW, your sawmill (and mine) is too complicated… watch these guys http://www.youtube.com/user/steamtrainmark#p/u/2/reFOzu3qSjs

I see a RUSSELL unit there…
:wink:
Had you seen that add I sent you before… from Williams Grove?

Good stuff there. I like the third picture. Something like that would work. Im in no rush so I can wait until you get another one done. Thanks again it gives me a much better idea now

Back to topic… Rear end view of #2 in progress.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/trucks/PC300001.jpg)

Same pic of #1- The odd rectangles are where the McCormick-Deering decals should be… in black with gold letters. I’m not going to bother.

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/trucks/PC310003.jpg)

Since I built it in 1/24, it is just a smidge undersized for use with 1/22.5 figures… The top of the hood should be about mid chest… it’s approximately 1/4" (6 scale inches) too low on this guy. (the angle makes it look worse than it really is) But I think it will look fine once it’s on the flatcar

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/trucks/PC310002.jpg)