Large Scale Central

WV&K Buchanan Yard Opens

Track and Trestles
#1

Management is pleased to announce that the long anticipated yard to service the Buchanan Mine is now complete, and only a month or so behind schedule…

All track is handlaid with Code 250 AL, and as you can see all 20 feet of it is elevated. Rockwork will be placed around the perimeter eventually. The four turnouts are basically laid to fit in place and are thrown by the tried and true barrel bolt ground throw method. Operation is awaiting the arrival of more rolling stock, everything 1:20 scale that I own is in the picture below (three truck Shay, 0-6-0, 4 hoppers and a cabin…man I REALLY need to build some stuff! There will be a tipple across teh yard just this side of the rock formation on the right, just before the crossover switch…

And if there was ever any question as to why a mine shifter was called a “dinky”

#2

Looking good Bart. Be careful with those heavy rocks. Jerry

#3

The yard and the rocks look great Bart. when rocking the yard be sure to allow places to get your feet close enough to the tracks that you don’t have to lean over to handle switches and couplers. Don’t want to loose all the back saving advantage of the elevated track :smiley:

#4

Wow! This is going to be good.

#5

Bart,

Looks great.

#6

Bart, do you place your wood with the crown up or down, or does it matter?

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/buchananyard080608.jpg)

#7

2 out of 3 boards say crown up. :smiley:

Looks good, Bart. When’s the first ops session? :wink:

#8

…or as we say here “Cup Down”

By having the cup down, or “Crown Up” it means that moisture trapped in the wood will try to drain down, and not accumulate in the wood as in "Cup Up’

From my experience with PT 2X roadbed, it does seem to be a good idea, but you still should treat all cut ends, with a wood preservative, like “Pentox” or any other brand name. Don’t forget to treat the “Plates” also.
It is most important to use plates that are the same thicness as the roadbed, and at least 18" long, in order to enjoy the stability at each joint, of the original planks you are using. You also need to use at least 6, 2 1/2 or 3 " deck screws at each joint.
Try to pick your boards when you buy them, avoiding boards where the grain changes from cup up to cup down within the plank. I find that the longer pieces (Over 12’) seem to be of better quality. But quality differs just by the region you live in, as does the type of wood that is used for PT lumber.
We seem to have good stuff up here, where it is usually Spruce. But some can be just plain garbage, so that’s why I alway suggest choosing only the best of the pile.
If the won’t let you “Sort” what you want from the pile; GO SOMEWHERE ELSE…they are just trying to load off any crap they can on you.

#9

Like Fred says…Cup down…I plan on treating the entire works at least twice a year with a Deck sealant preservative…put it in a weed sprayer and hose it on…Not only does cup down prevent the trapping of moisture…if the wood should happen to bow, the high point is in the middle where the nail through the tie to the roadbed is…not on the ends causing the tie to pull loose…

#10

Great looking yard Bart! I’m sure Gary is proud. That handlaid track sure looks good.