Need some rail joiners for 332 track. Battery power here, and have some from previous installs. Looking for the ‘best’ deal. If you know where to buy or have some to sell please let me know.
I’ve used Aristo with the screws in the past and would consider them or a Split-jaw type as well. I image I need between 3 and 5 doz total…
anyone?
thanks
Cale,
I think these are the best bet. I use them for all my switches, and will eventually use them on all rail connections. I am very satisfied with them.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/trackjoiners/m.html?item=231298829077&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
Joe, those look like Hillman clamps. Don’t know if anyone is still manufacturing under the Hillman name. The website hasn’t been updated since late 2012.
Jon,
They are the same, but sold as Uncle Hermie’s I believe.
The Hillman’s have a longer upper part, that actually contacts the rail web. That’s the part that is breaking off of my Hillman’s. So I am converting to Split-Jaw as the Hillman’s fail.
I may have some Aristo joiners somewhere, I will have to look. But I seriously doubt I have 5 dozen of them little buggers.
I used around 50 of the Split-Jaws, highly recommend using them. At $2 a piece they are worth it.
Not to completely hijack this thread, but does anyone know a source of code 250 aluminum joiners? I’m tired of using brass ones and fighting electrolysis. Tried to run trains for the family, and the only thing that ran was my code 332 brass rail with brass Split-Jaw and Hillman clamps.
David Maynard said:
The Hillman’s have a longer upper part, that actually contacts the rail web. That’s the part that is breaking off of my Hillman’s. So I am converting to Split-Jaw as the Hillman’s fail.
I may have some Aristo joiners somewhere, I will have to look. But I seriously doubt I have 5 dozen of them little buggers.
I’ve never had a Hillman type fail in any way.
Joe, many folks told me that, that is why I went with Hillman’s. But the slot in the Hillman’s isn’t wide enough to accept the foot of the Aristo stainless rail, so the top part of the clamp eventually gets a stress fracture and breaks off. Yes, I bought the clamps that were supposed to be made for the Aristo stainless.
Dick, I know one guy who would put aluminum foil between the clamp and the rail to prevent that issue.
Train-li clamps are replacing all my split-jaw type clamps. Easy top screw, and a simple electrical hook up anywhere I want. Hold tite. stay tite.
http://www.trainli.com/bprolineb-brass-clamps-code-clam-p-475.html
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/Track%20N%20Switchs/DSCN0066_zps58ea36b7.jpg)
Also-- No broken/twisted off screws. Just use a common #2 flat screwdriver from the top. Easy breezy to pull switches for re-hab.
David Maynard said:
Joe, many folks told me that, that is why I went with Hillman’s. But the slot in the Hillman’s isn’t wide enough to accept the foot of the Aristo stainless rail, so the top part of the clamp eventually gets a stress fracture and breaks off. Yes, I bought the clamps that were supposed to be made for the Aristo stainless.
Dick, I know one guy who would put aluminum foil between the clamp and the rail to prevent that issue.
David,
I never knew about Aristo stainless rail and the foot dimension. All I ever use is brass rail, so that is what I was referring to. Good point you brought up though!
Dave Taylor said:
Train-li clamps are replacing all my split-jaw type clamps. Easy top screw, and a simple electrical hook up anywhere I want. Hold tite. stay tite.
http://www.trainli.com/bprolineb-brass-clamps-code-clam-p-475.html
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff403/dave2-8-0/Track%20N%20Switchs/DSCN0066_zps58ea36b7.jpg)
Also-- No broken/twisted off screws. Just use a common #2 flat screwdriver from the top. Easy breezy to pull switches for re-hab.
My pike uses Train-Li clamps.
Can’t praise them enough!
Sean
