Large Scale Central

Working on some LGB gondolas

Modeling Rolling stock
#1

I added styrene to the inside to simulate wood, as well as in the corners to simulate the metal supports. I also added D&RGW style coupler pockets, Kadee couplers, and Bachmann metal wheels. First cars I body mounted couplers to as I plan to convert a large portion of the rolling stock to body mounts this summer.

Next comes painting the styrene (inside of the gondola) to look like bare wood. And hopefully getting a close color for the coupler pocket to match the car.

They will eventually look similar to this pipe gondola I kitbashed from an LGB gondola (shown before I lettered it)

Thankfully I won’t have to letter the two gondolas I’m working on now. That’s a big time saver.

#2

There’s been a lot of discussion on another list about gondolas. Your rebuild is very nice and doesn’t look too difficult for novices to do. I’ve got to look around and see if I’ve got one of these somewhere!

Good job.

#3

Thanks Dick.

Yes, this is a very easy to do upgrade.

Parts list:

Evergreen Styrene 352 (.040" x .438") [For the interior wood][1 - 2 cars requires 2 packs]

Evergreen Styrene 349 (.040" x .250") [For the interior metal braces] [1 pack]

Ozark Miniatures 20 (Talgo Coupler Pocket) [1 set will do 2 cars]

I use Model Masters Liquid Cement for Plastic to secure the styrene to the LGB car.

I use Gluesmith Glue (Thick) to secure the metal Ozark coupler pockets to the LGB car. This glue dries really quick so be careful about positioning. Once it cures it is almost impossible to remove.

#4

Why not real wood? That would glue to the insides just as easy. Basswood strips.

Nice, conversion, BTW.

#5

Very nice look!

#6

John Bouck said:

Why not real wood? That would glue to the insides just as easy. Basswood strips.

Nice, conversion, BTW.

In my experience, styrene is easier to work with in 1mm thickness (and smaller) then real wood. And real wood (when this thin) tends to warp more then styrene.

But real wood saves time by eliminating the painting step. So kind of a toss up really when choosing which material to use.

#7

A mini update:

(http://i.imgur.com/hM6TJ0k.jpg)

The front gondola grab irons and other details were brush painted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red. Really good match to the LGB body color. Compare the painted grab irons, brake wheel, and coupler pocket on the front gondola to the unpainted details on the the rear gondola

Then I brush painted the interior styrene of the front gondola with FolkArt Barnwood. The photo is after one coat of barnwood. I usually apply two coats and then weather it to look like distressed wood.

#8

I gotta say, they look pretty sweet!

#9

Mark V said:

I gotta say, they look pretty sweet!

Thanks.

Isn’t it amazing these are LGB? When I stepped back a bit they sort of looked like the true scale Accucraft (AMS) gondolas.

#10

…(http://www.freethoughtnation.com/components/com_comment/joscomment/emoticons/funny/images/smile.png)…

#11

They’re done (although I might paint the couplers):

(http://i.imgur.com/ECjmyba.jpg)

Too bad they’re the same number. Maybe one day I’ll change the last number on one of them. Although finding decals to match the font size LGB used on these is very tough. I may have to use custom decals.

#12

Thay look so nice. Regards,Ron.

#13

Matt Doti said:

They’re done . I may have to use custom decals.

Stans the man to see!

http://gold.mylargescale.com/StanCedarleaf/WebPageDecals/CustomDecalsx.html

#14

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Stans the man to see!

He sure is.

He made custom decals for me for this kitbashed flat and also did the custom decals for the tractors:

(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/4828/tractorsv.jpg)

#15

Old post yes, but I’m not sure if I ever posted these photos of the finished gons out on the layout. These photos show the air hose and painted couplers. Click on the “large photo links” below for mega close up images.

Link to large image #1

Link to large image #2

#16

Matt Doti said:

Old post yes, but I’m not sure if I ever posted these photos of the finished gons out on the layout.

Not that I have ever seen…Nice!

#17

If someone cares to do this same “Bash”, they can use the old B’mann big hauler gondolas, instead of the more expensive LGB ones.

The B’mann ones are often found at garage sales, and elsewhere at dirt cheap prices. They are also made of Styrene, so for gluing you can even use lacquer thinner for a good “Weld”

#18

Fred Mills said:

If someone cares to do this same “Bash”, they can use the old B’mann big hauler gondolas, instead of the more expensive LGB ones.

Kind of. While you do save money, the Bachmann gon is not the same as the LGB model.

The Bachmann gondola decoration is odd. Their gons have both the flying Rio Grande logo and round herald. Not very realistic. Also the overall model is not as prototypical for a D&RGW high side gondola as the LGB model is. I’m not 100% sure on this but I also think the Bachmann gon is a little short to be a “high side” gondola.

That’s why I chose the LGB gons (specifically model #43730). More realistic in appearance and the decoration is very accurate. So I didn’t have to repaint or reletter the cars. Which saves a lot of time and some money.

Out of the box this is what they look like:

LGB Gondola

Bachmann Gondola

Prototype Gon

#19

Very nice.

If all you have to do is change one number, you could do that by hand. I have done that on several of my cars. Remove the offending digit, then print one out in the proper font and size on your printer. Then transfer that to the car with transfer paper or carbon paper, depending on the colour of the digit. You trace the outline of the digit with a fine tip ball point pen. Then paint between the lines. Any “oopses” can be carefully scraped off with a sharp exato knife.

#20

David Maynard said:

Very nice.

If all you have to do is change one number, you could do that by hand. I have done that on several of my cars. Remove the offending digit, then print one out in the proper font and size on your printer. Then transfer that to the car with transfer paper or carbon paper, depending on the colour of the digit. You trace the outline of the digit with a fine tip ball point pen. Then paint between the lines. Any “oopses” can be carefully scraped off with a sharp exato knife.

That sounds very doable. Thanks for the tips David.