Large Scale Central

Wooden Trestle design questions

The Slate Creek will have two bridges on the ROW… and it’s looking like one will be a wooden trestle. This trestle will be very short (like everything else on the railroad…) probably three feet long (or thereabouts.)

I’ve figured out most of how it’s all going to work (and Richard Smith’s new bridge confirmed this) as far as how it’ll fit into the benchwork… but I’m left with a couple of questions…

Is it more common to have a “retaining bent” at the end of the trestle, where the “ground” is as high as the whole bridge, or to support the end on a small concrete pier with the ground sloping down to, say, the next bent? To me it seems like if you did the method with the concrete pier and slope, there would be no place to attach the “Grits” at the end of the bridge, as the part where they’d be attached to the end bent would be underground…right?

Also… does a trestle that spans a stream (real or otherwise) require concrete footings in the streambed, or was that based on the situation?

What’s the standard practice on refuges, with respect to spacing and clearance?

While we’re at it, what’s the usual width of bridge ties, spacing of guard timbers, etc? Would like to make the bridge as believable as possible.

Matthew (OV)

Matthew (OV) said:
The Slate Creek will have two bridges on the ROW.... and it's looking like one will be a wooden trestle. This trestle will be very short (like everything else on the railroad....) probably three feet long (or thereabouts.)

I’ve figured out most of how it’s all going to work (and Richard Smith’s new bridge confirmed this) as far as how it’ll fit into the benchwork… but I’m left with a couple of questions…

Is it more common to have a “retaining bent” at the end of the trestle, where the “ground” is as high as the whole bridge, or to support the end on a small concrete pier with the ground sloping down to, say, the next bent? To me it seems like if you did the method with the concrete pier and slope, there would be no place to attach the “Grits” at the end of the bridge, as the part where they’d be attached to the end bent would be underground…right?

Also… does a trestle that spans a stream (real or otherwise) require concrete footings in the streambed, or was that based on the situation?

What’s the standard practice on refuges, with respect to spacing and clearance?

While we’re at it, what’s the usual width of bridge ties, spacing of guard timbers, etc? Would like to make the bridge as believable as possible.

Matthew (OV)


Matthew,

I’ll answer what I can…

For anchoring the end of the trestle…
One way is to have an end bent in conjunction with a timber retaining wall to hold the fill behind it in place. A variation would be to have a retaining wall behind which are laid crosswise heavy timbers. The trestle stringers are extended beyond the retaining wall and on top of the crosswise timbers and are partially buried in the fill. Concrete or stone masonry abutments can also be used. Usually if the bents are supported by concrete or masonry footings the abutments will be of the same material.

For a stream crossing it depends on depth and current. For a simple slow moving stream a grill can be used. This is constructed with standard ties arranged about a foot apart and connected with two heavy timbers on both ends of the ties the same length as the bottom sill on the trestle bent. The grill can then be floated into place and the trestle bent set on top evenly between the two connecting timbers thus sinking it. The bents are held in place with cross bracing to each other and not connected to the grills at all. For modeling you wouldn’t need the grills unless they can be seen beneath the water and could simply anchor the bents below. In the case of a pile trestle the piles may be simply driven into the stream bed.

I have also seen pictures of rock filled wooden abutments with pointed ends facing upstream upon which the bents are placed. Of course for a fast running river or stream you might need concrete or masonry abutments once again pointed towards upstream.
Note: abutments as mentioned above should have been piers (senior moment or two). I’m adding this addenda instead of merely correcting the post to draw attention to it for those that may already have read it once.

Refuges are installed between every 80 to 200 feet. I would assume the shorter distances would be used in the case of higher train speeds while the longer for trestles with slow orders as there’d be more time to get out of the way of trains. Higher vs lower speeds would be relative as most wooden trestles require a lessening of speed on them. A rough size would be 4’ wide x 3’ deep and a little larger for a handcar. Too I’m sure that there was much variation the farther back in time you go. Thus a modern era trestle would have to adhere closely to accepted standards whereas an 1880 logging line might not have any standards at all or even any refuge bays.

Regular length ties can be used on the trestle except where a refuge bay is needed. Then extra length ties are used at that location(s). The guard timbers are placed on the tie ends and serve the dual function of protecting from derailments and keeping the ties aligned. Guard timbers are typically 6x8 and bolted to each tie end.

Best wishes on your bridge and … need I say … photos!!! 8)

Well, of course there will be photos … once it’s built! Richard, again, thanks for your input … everything from turntables to bridges to buildings … all of which are in the planning phases as the layout gets closer to being ready for them. I think the bridge will likely be first, followed by the buildings… the turntable may or may not happen. I have two locations picked out already for bridges … one will be a girder span, and won’t require much benchwork modification at all… the other will be a short trestle (about 60 scale feet) and will require MAJOR surgery … but at least I now have a photo of how it works… in fact, once the requisite modifications are made, this train would be crossing the trestle in the straight section between the two curves:

The idea is to move the legs out in the front section, and cut out the space in the middle from the stringers, lowering a section of benchwork about 12 inches, and then installing supports for the bents on the lowered section … later on the scenery crew will build the creek in place… probably using Richard Schmidt’s excellent silicone and resin techniques, among others. I’m still working out what to do with it at the back of the benchwork, but if I can make it look like the stream comes around a sharp bend between two very rocky outcroppings, it should work well enough. So, it’s not vaporware… it’s just taking awhile. Between my adventures with wanton arachnid attacks and the invasion of the remodelling crew for the first floor of the house, not much has happened on the SCRY in the last month or so. At least once they’ve finished, there won’t be any more flooding from the kitchen sink in the pier area, or flooding from the bathroom on the long curve … and no more construction debris avalanches from the suddenly open holes in the bathroom floor! As to the arachnids … the exterminator says there are no Brown Recluse spiders in North Carolina … having found three in the house, and a crater in my chest, and two doctors recognizing what that likely means, we tend to disagree… regardless, in a week’s time the whole house will be fogged, bombed, and otherwise fumigated, and anything with more than four legs will hopefully be off to the happy hunting grounds… so I won’t have to worry about that kind of nonsense any more, and can get back to actually building things downstairs!

This is how I did it. A brick masquerading as a concrete abutment or pier.