Large Scale Central

Windows 15 (not the Microsoft kind)

Plugging along on my two-story home project and making them windows–15 in all, not counting two small ones for the kitchen area, plus two doors. Mindless work, but distinctive, since ya can’t buy them from Grandt Line. Next time, maybe I will. Sure glad I’m not building a factory. :frowning:

My work/patio table. Puttin’ in them muntins, since the frames are all made. Of course, nuthin’ fits right (measure twice, cut once). That’s my MEK jar. Can’t find the stuff anywhere anymore (they now sell MEK Substitute), so I’m hangin’ on to this last pint.

In case y’all forgot, that’s what she looks like in cardboard. I may cover her in brick, instead of siding, since I have a lot of Precision Plastic brick sheet and nada siding.

Joe,

I can get gallon and quart cans of both MEK and Acetone here in Florida, both at the Orange Box (HD).

Bob C.

Bob, maybe I should import some. Actually, one of the problems in taking your hobby with you when you travel is that ya can’t carry stuff on the aeroplane. In fact, even if you order it on line or whatever, the folks in question have to ship it by ground, as far as I know. In LA, it’s easy because Plastruct is just 20 miles or so from our home and their stuff, Plastic Weld, arrives in a day or so. BTW, MEK is no longer sold in most counties in Southern California, but I did find some in Ventura. In Hawaii, stuff like MEK and solvents probably come by boat. The local ACE hardware on Maui had MEK last year, which is when I bought some, but when I checked last week, they were selling the substitute, whatever that is. Who knows, maybe it works (i.e. melts/bonds styrene) as well as the original.

When I visited Ross and Sue Piper who run Rainbow Ridge and sell Precision Board-based stuff (a whole ‘nuther story), Ross, who used to be in the commercial glass business, told me that MEK can mess you up in the long run. But I’m thinkin’ that’s if ya practically bathe in the stuff, as you would if you were using it to clean stuff, which is what MEK was used for. I keep it in a small jar and pretty much keep a lid on it until I’m ready to dab some on, so I figure my exposure is minimal. And some time ago I did a Google search regarding its effects and found nothing that would send me running to the emergency ward. My final rationalization, the father of styrene modeling, Al Armitage, used it for decades and died at like 90, so how bad could it be?

Joe,

Worse than MEK is Carbontetrachloride. My dad was an auto mechanic and we used that stuff by the drum full for cleaning parts. It also worked real good for drying out a damp distributor cap, as it was anhydrous. I used to be in that stuff up to my elbows cleaning parts. I know the reason that was outlawed was the effects were cumulative. Once that stuff got into the body it NEVER leaves, and it is carcinogenic. MEK might give you a real buzz in a closed environment, but otherwise I am not aware of any long term effects, unless as you said, you take a bath in it.

Bob C.

Bob, and let’s not forget that carbon tet was once used in fire extinguishers!

The windows project is stumbling along, as I am at the cut and paste stage and things are not fitting as desired. My first batch of window inserts, the little frames that fit into the outer frame, are a trifle too big and will have to be sanded down to fit inside the frame and to look right esthetically. The second batch, while true to size, have middle muntins (the dividers) that are a teensy bit too short and won’t snug up against the upper sash. Of course, once ya glaze them, they’ll be fine and sturdy and will look OK when applying the 10-foot rule.

I don’t know about anyone else, but this is how many of my projects stall out: you hit an obstacle, shelve the project and it collects dust while you move onto something new. If only I could start working on skinning the walls or something. BTW, the styrene walls of my house are all finished and need only to be covered with Precision Plastic sheet.

But at least it’s a beautiful day!

Joe Rusz said:
you hit an obstacle, shelve the project and it collects dust while you move onto something new.
true words, painfully true.

What dimension material do you use?

I need to do a bunch of windows for a machine shop project.
They will be visible from both inside and outside. (doing interior as well)
Any suggestions?

Thanks

Bruce Chandler wrote an article entitled “Making Your Own Windows,” in which he detailed the process, including creating several jigs for the various size windows.

It is well worth reading if you have more than one window to create. :smiley:

Steve is correct. One of the go-to articles is Bruce Chandler’s post at the link shown above. I have it in my “saves” file. Bruce made a wooden jig, which enabled him to position the muntins (those are the little cross pieces) in place and keep 'em aligned. I did no such thing, mostly because I am lazy and always in a hurry to get things done ASAP. Plus these windows are simple and I found that simply keeping the corners square (using a metal square as seen in the photo) worked well. As for postioning the cross piece, because there’s only one per window or sash or whatever ya call it, I just eyeball it and hope it’s in the middle. I tried making a pencil mark at the halfway point, but that’s too much work. I also tried using a piece of glass as a jig, but it’s just a skosh off size. Speaking of jigs, as I recall, Bruce used wood, which is OK if you apply your “cement” neatly. If you don’t, the extra stuff will ooze onto the wood or whatever the jig is made of, and stick the window to the jig or the work surface (ask me how I know this). I’ve built my windows on a piece of glass, because that seems to repel MEK (my cement of choice) and Plastruct’s Plastic Weld, pretty well. I’ve been thinking of a piece of Lexan plastic, to use as a jig and work surface, because most of these solvent “glues” don’t stick to Lexan. Or so I’m told. Clair, I swear by (and sometimes swear at) Evergreen Scale Models styrene strip, which I buy at my local train store (Arnie’s in Orange County, CA). You can get it from Caboose Hobbies and the manufacturer, although the company doesn’t seem all that jazzed dealing with consumers (too much paperwork, I’m guessing). Either way, the price is the same (no bargains out there). You can also buy plastic strip from Plastruct in LA. They have a huge catalog of stuff, available either in paper (for a few bucks) or on their website. It’s fun to browse, because they have so many neat things for model builders. BTW, their strip styrene is good, but it comes in shorter lengths. They do have a lot of angles, trim pieces, and such, if ya wanta get fancy. But to your actual question: for my windows I used .060 x .188 for the outer frames (the ones that sit atop your wall material be it siding, brick, etc). To keep the frames neat and to hold them in place in the window holes you’ve cut in your wall, I made little sub frames that fit under the outer frames, from .040 x .125 strip. Not required, but tidy looking. For the inner windows (the sash, I guess) I used and .080 x .125 (part number 366) and .060 x .080 (part 354), which I turned on its side, for the center divider.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/_forumfiles/Windowframe1.jpg)

This is the inner frame (call it a frame insert), which will anchor the complete frame assembly in the wall hole. Ya don’t need one (I have pasted the frames directly to the wall surface), but if you want your windows to look like the store-bought kind, this is what you need. The material in this case is .040 x .125 styrene strip.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/_forumfiles/Windowframe2.jpg)

The outer frame, shown here, gets “cemented” on top the inner frame and makes everything nice and tidy. BTW, when I say “cemented,” understand that when working with styrene and any solvent like MEK or Plastic Weld, you are not actually gluing things together, but welding them, as these solvents melt the plastic. One more thing related to your question, Clair. The size of material you chose depends on the scale of your work. I chose mine because the strips I used looked right. For instance, if you make the frames out of material that is too wide, they’ll look oversized, relative to the size of the window opening and such. So ya gotta size the whole situation up. I keep a supply of various sizes of styrene strip on hand and just fiddle around until I find one that looks right or fits the dimensions shown in the plans–when I work from plans. Finally (don’t he ever shut up?): I Googled window sash and learned that the inner frame (the window part) is called a sash. Have fun.

Korm Kormsen said:
Joe Rusz said:
you hit an obstacle, shelve the project and it collects dust while you move onto something new.
true words, painfully true.
Happened to me more than once too. Posting your progress here does tend to create some peer pressure to keep moving forward. I probably never would have finished the box car I built last winter if it wasn't for the encouragement I got on this site.

So, check out Bruce’s article for ideas; use the ones that aren’t right for a car load or junk pile and get working. That prototype you built is too nice for you to not finish the model :slight_smile:

Jon, I fully intend to finish this model as soon as we get back to the mainland where my stuff is. I also promised my wife that by year’s end I will complete my other works in progress: the Orbisonia Firehouse, for which I have a neat 1928 firetruck (but need some dalmations to place in the driveway); my Rider’s Crossing general store, which need its store bay windows assembled; my old-time gas station, which needs to have its tin roof completed and painted and its interior decked out, if I get that anal.

Speaking of peer pressure, it’s postings from Bruce and others on this site, that keep me going. I have to admit that I’m one of those guys who rises to a challenge. In other words, if you do something that I think I can do, I gotta prove that I can do it too. Of course, my work may pale by comparison, but hey, I’m in there pitching. BTW, that’s why I love sites–and magazines–like Finescale. The stuff on/in there is out of this world.

And thanks for calling my prototype “nice.”