Large Scale Central

Width of ladder track?

Track and Trestles
#21

Steve,

Good thought and I did think about it for a minute or so. Trouble is I am both impatient and engineering challenged. With all this working with engineered wood, (yea, there is an irony of sorts), I chose to “see what happens”. If the first one compromised the curve, I would redo it putting the splice on one side with the center of the other side. As it turns out the curve is slightly impaired and difficult to discern visually. And I can always compensate with the track. Using 4 screws helped keep the intended curve, (I think). What do I know?

That’s what I like about this forum. Everyone kicks in a little help and we all benefit in our own endeavors.

Thanks

Bill

#22

Bill,

Your ladder looks really nice. When can we run some trains???

#23

I used tuf board and trim plank. Personally I find the trim plank a bit better to work with. As Richard stated and a mistake I made, he likes his to come to the end of the ties to eliminate tie breakage. Mine did not, on the elevated areas I need to back fill and I had some tie breakage where it was bumped into. I like the ladder system for on the ground and experimented with many methods. In front of my deck I made boxes(cribbing in a sense) and filled them in with stone. They work great. On the one turn I used 1x4 tuf board as I knew it would be walked on. A total bear to form the curve but has proven quite well. I don’t support on the ground level stuff just allow it to float and it has proven well. I allow my turns to float on the roadbed and it does have screws secruring it on the straights. I support the raised areas every 24". Despite what has been said I used sectional track for my turns and not flex. Currently trying Freds system with PT decking on grids for the straights as I feel it makes good sense. I’m in no rush to back fill as I want to see how the material does first. I have some stuff posted here if you care for a look. Others pictures gave me ideas and helped me a ton!
http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/The%20Railroad/?start=0

#24

Look’n good David, Those are some sturdy stakes:

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/The%20Railroad/Jan2008011.jpg?t=1227666144)

What are they and do you have any trouble keeping the stake where you want it when driving it home? I ask because I am having some doubts with my ¾ schd 40 pvc pipe. Lotta swaying around once they are in the air. Looks like I am laying most of my addition 2-3 inches above grade and not excited about the wobble. Bill

#25

Mario, check your email. Bill

#26

Bill Gebhardt said:
Look’n good David, Those are some sturdy stakes:

(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f72/Shortybear/The%20Railroad/Jan2008011.jpg?t=1227666144)

What are they and do you have any trouble keeping the stake where you want it when driving it home? I ask because I am having some doubts with my ¾ schd 40 pvc pipe. Lotta swaying around once they are in the air. Looks like I am laying most of my addition 2-3 inches above grade and not excited about the wobble. Bill

Bill, I use 1.5" Schedule 40 PVC pipe, that sure eliminates the swaying. Add the 1.5" of two strips of Trex and that solves the “ties protruding over the Trex” problem. Highest extension above ground 16" - until the viaduct is built.

#27
Bill Gebhardt said:
Look’n good David, Those are some sturdy stakes: What are they and do you have any trouble keeping the stake where you want it when driving it home? I ask because I am having some doubts with my ¾ schd 40 pvc pipe. Lotta swaying around once they are in the air. Looks like I am laying most of my addition 2-3 inches above grade and not excited about the wobble. Bill
Bill, They are Trex railing balusters. I beat them about 12 " into the ground with a sand filled deadblow hammer (flat ended..don't sharpen) They float with the ground. If you sharpen then end the frost heave will push them out of the ground. I also forgot to add your ladder work looks great so far and my width spacing on my blocks was 1 1/2" making a 3" wide ladder. PVC should work just fine as once you screw your ladder to it it will stabilize the posts. However 3/4" seems a bit light. This is another reason I went with 1 1/2" spacing as the balusters are that width and slip right in between the ladder. I set my ladder on the ground then beat the stakes in between then I raised the ladder up and screwed it in place. Then I cut the tops of the balusters off flush. Hope this helps. Good luck Dave
#28

HJ,
You have worried. Tell me more about.“ties protruding over the Trex” problem.
Bill

#29

Dave,
Well too late for me now with less than 1-1/2 width between rail. But all this should benefit future ladder track builders by considering: Stake, overall width, and now HJ’s concern over “ties protruding over the Trex” problem. I may have concentrated too much on keeping rail on rail.
Looking at your pix I could not see where a train could move from the inside track to the outside one. How does that work?
Bill

#30
Bill Gebhardt said:
HJ, You have worried. Tell me more about."ties protruding over the Trex" problem. Bill
Bill,

Having the Trex support the outside of the ties means no snagging of ties by errant shoes and implements.

Referring to the problem David mentioned

DR said:
As Richard stated and a mistake I made, he likes his to come to the end of the ties to eliminate tie breakage. Mine did not, on the elevated areas I need to back fill and I had some tie breakage where it was bumped into.

#31

HJ,
And the learning process never ends, fortunately!
Bill