I am trying to finish my drawing for our new (& first) layout that we will start building as soon as Mother Nature allows this spring. As a novice I have learned that it is better to ask the “dumb” question than to make the expensive mistake. When designing a layout what criteria are used to decide which switch to use in a particular location? We are using Aristocraft stainless track so the choices are “10-Ft Dia.” Or “#6 switches”.
Any help is always appreciated.
Jim
Hi Jim,
That’s strictly a matter of how much space you have available and if you like the geometry of numbered turnouts better than the more toyish looking curved frogs of the “wide radius”.
Generally, the #6 switch or “Turnout” would represent a “High speed switch” (In real life a high speed switch would have a much longer frog angle…but that’s about the largest you will find in a ready made LS switch these days.
The High speed switch would be used on the main line, and smaller “Frog angle” switches like the Aristo Wide Radius, whould be used on secondary trackage in a yard for example.
In any case, all equipment looks, and functions better on the widest frog angle switches, along with the widest curve you can use. It makes very little sense to buy #6 switches when your widest curves are less than 5 foot radius.
When planning your railroad, think about the future.
What do you think you might enjoy running on it in a few years’ time…if it’s your hope to run BIG Diesel power or articulated steam locos, along with full length passenger equipment…then go to the widest curves you can fit in your outdoor location, along with the #6 switches…
The Wide Radius switches are fine for most situations, where you are running smaller locos, like an Aristo Alco RS3, or a USTrains GP7…or most of the smaller steam locos like the B’mann Annies, and the larger Connie (2-8-0).
My suggestion is to NOT use anything smaller than a 5 foot radius curve; #6 switches on the main line, and Wide Radius switches in the yard area.
Good luck.....and yes, the cost of switches is also a factor, but DON'T use the very much less expensive 2 foot radius switches....they are only good for VERY small 2 axle locomotives and cars.........plan well, and ask lots of questions, before purchasing anything.Following on to what Fred has said above… On my mainline I use the #6 outdoors where branch lines and wye tails come off the main. Indoors I use the Wide Radius at both ends of a balloon track loop which makes up the main line indoors. I don’t have room in these areas for the #6 which is very long. I also use the Wide Radius as the entrance switch to my indoor yards, but because I am very space limited I use some of the R1 switches within the yards. The R1’s severely limit what can be run down those yard tracks. None of my 1:20 stock will go through the R1’s, but my 1:24 stuff can be pulled or pushed through them by a small loco. For comparison, here is an R1 switch on top of a #6…
(http://photo.cvsry.com/No6vsR1-1-640.jpg)
(http://photo.cvsry.com/No6vsR1-2-640.jpg)
A Wide Radius is about half way between the R1 and #6 in length.
I believe I have heard that most prototype turnouts are considerably less drastic than those in the model railroad world, unless you are modeling trolley or quarry and industrial lines.
I use LGB R5’s 1800 (15’ or so dia) exclusively on my layout. Mainline, sidings and yard.
All switches are problematic at times, even these.
I try to keep as few as needed on the mainline. Once you leave the mainline, you will be traveling at a much lower rate of speed and therefore have less problems.
They have to be kept level, and free of ballast and other debris. They should be accessible for ease of operation, without tripping over structures, etc.
Some brands will not let certain lokies with pick-up slider shoes travel cleanly thru the frogs.
If I remember right, a friend had some Aristo wides on his layout, and USA shoes kept catching. He replaced those shoes with LGB and everything was OK for a while. But other problems with those switches made him replace all of them with LGB 1800’s a few years back.
How you couple and what kind of couplers can effect your switching at times.
Backing talgo mounted cars into a yard can be problematic.
Body mounted KD.s work better, but the “Air hose” trip wire can catch things on the switch. These usually need to be bent up a little.
Nothing is 100% out of the box reliable. You just have to adapt.
Part of the hobby, I guess. 
I too am also very glad I was able to buy the large LGB switches when I did my layout. I run battery/rc but since I’m now wiring up most of the layout for others some of the larger engines will be running when friends come over. Don’t forget that you, like me, may not be running them but others will. I have large diameter curves and I’m glad I did. Several of our club members have purchased engines that they can’t run on their home layouts.
Budget is an issue too. #6 switches cost about twice what wide radius switches do.
-Brian
John Bouck said:I've heard this a lot, but never once had any problems in my yards built with R1 switches so long as the pushing loco has a short wheelbase like a USA 44 tonner or similar. My RS-3's will definitely not work when coupled through the R1's because the body mounted coupler gets too far outside the rail and pulls or pushes the coupled car off the track.
[i][/i]Backing talgo mounted cars into a yard can be problematic.
I’ve also never had any problems with USA sliders on any of my my Aristo switches. I guess I’m just lucky 
You can learn to build your own switches. That will keep the cost 'way down. It’s really not hard to do, just fussy.
I just did one from the GR plans. Was some work, but plan to do a second right away, should be easier, if I remember what all to do. You do have to be careful and fiddle with them some. My SVRR track gauge was invaluable. Clip it over the rails to keep them in gauge as you drill/spike.
Jerry,
I remember the article, what issue was it in?
With RR that most folks have, using the wide radius turnout meets most folks requirements. If your into the bigger locos such as mallets and big boys then you need to use the No 6 turnouts. 90% of my turnouts are wide radius and do just fine. N0 6 used for for nice long and easy diverging sidings . Later RJD
I use a #8 where my yard joins the main. The rest are #6.
I did make a number of my own, but I didn’t enjoy it as much as I do with other modeling projects.
