Large Scale Central

Wanted: Hook and Loop Couplers

For Sale/Trade/Wanted
#1

I have decided to build into my layout two shunting puzzles. I fell in love with the concept at my last club meeting. Joe set up an Inglenook Siding puzzle and used Bachmann Lil Hauler saddle tank loco and cars. The hook and loop couplers were perfect for this as it allowed for easy coupling and uncoupling of cars quickly.

Are the different brands easily compatible if set to the same height?

Does anyone have a plethora of hook and loop couplers that they have removed and don’t know what to do with. One puzzle requires five cars the other 8 cars. I would like to have a set of cars for each so I am looking for 13 pairs of matching couplers. I know I have some but not nearly enough. I have two Bachmann Lil Hauler locos that I will probably designate for puzzle operations so they already have the Bachmann hook and loop.

Let me know if you can help and we will work a deal.

#2

Such a deal I am for you! I have a large plastic Ziploc bag full. I do not know who made which ones, but I will try to match you at least 13 sets.

Cannot do until tomorrow, but I call dibs!

Lou

#3

Lou,

I am sending you a private message. Thanks.

#4

Well that was quick. Between Lou and Bill Zuk I will have more than enough for my project. Thanks guys.

#5

I use hook and loops on everything because they are universal, inexpensive and they work.

Bachmann, USAT and LGB are pretty much the same but the Aristo ones have metal springs which are good for holding power but they can rust away if left outdoors. Another thing with the Aristo H&L is that they are not as free moving as the other brands and if you are working through tight curves this might cause issues for you. They also have a different setup on the tang and might not match up with the tongue of your rolling stock if you are using anything other than Aristo.

The Bachmann lil haulers are cute cabooses but if you notice the H&L are upside down. I have one that I had to make coupler mounting blocks for with Aristo H&L’s.

#6

Thanks Todd,

Joe, the guy in our club that introduced me to this idea and a lurker here, got me hooked (pun intended) on this idea. And the hook and loop couplers worked very well and are simple for quick operation. He just made a bent l shaped rod to lift them up with. For the puzzle it just makes sense when you don’t plan to go all the way and have Kadee remote couplers which I don’t plan on.

Thanks for the run down on which play well together. Also thanks for bringing it to my attention that the Lil Haulers are upside down, this is actually a good thing for the puzzle because it makes lifting them with the metal rod easier. Since my rolling stock will be scratch built I can make the others upside down as well.

#7

I think it is easier to push down than lift up and if your rolling stock is light you might lift it right off the track!

I use a popsicle stick to uncouple my cars from the side. You can also use another type of thin stick to uncouple from the top.

It is very simple.

#8

Todd Haskins said:

I think it is easier to push down than lift up and if your rolling stock is light you might lift it right off the track!

I use a popsicle stick to uncouple my cars from the side. You can also use another type of thin stick to uncouple from the top.

It is very simple.

Well that is good food for thought. And since you regularly use H&L I will take your word for it. This is an open book. So I can do what ever I want. For a timed puzzle easy uncoupling is a must. I can see there pushing down would be easier.

#9

I have AMS, Aristo, USA and Hook and Loop on various cars, and by far, the H&L’s are easiest to use and seem most dependable. But of course aren’t prototypical. I tend to have to keep AMS, Aristo/USA and LGB consists separate, but it’s not too problematic. I’ve considered converting everything to H&L’s, but too big a job. Too busy constructing. Good idea Devon to start with H&L’s for all your cars.

#10

Rich Niemeyer said:
I have AMS, Aristo, USA and Hook and Loop on various cars, and by far, the H&L’s are easiest to use and seem most dependable. But of course aren’t prototypical. I tend to have to keep AMS, Aristo/USA and LGB consists separate, but it’s not too problematic. I’ve considered converting everything to H&L’s, but too big a job. Too busy constructing. Good idea Devon to start with H&L’s for all your cars.

I can’t do it Rich. I honestly just don’t like H&L because of the looks. All of my real stock will be Kadee for regular operations and L&P for my prototype stuff. I just need it to look right or I know it will bug me.

These cars will be for the very specific purpose of running the puzzle tracks and only because they will be faster and easier to couple and uncouple when racing a clock.

But I do understand what your saying. The design is a good one from a practical stand point, especially truck mounted ones. Seems they would be very forgiving.

#11

Identical mounting couplers are LGB, USA Trains, Bachmann, Trainli.

Aristo and HLW have totally different mounting methods bur are fully compatible with mating with LGB, USA Trains, Bachmann, Trainli.

So, LGB has a divit type mount and the screw just holds the coupler in place, the divit takes the pulling pressure. Aristo and HLW use a screw only mount and this screw takes the pulling pressure.

On another note, for on the ground uncoupling, use a fly swatter.

#12

Devon do you have the adaptors for the Lil Haulers to drop them down to LGB height or are you just going to use all Lil Hauler cars?

#13

Vic,

The answer to your questions is no on both counts. All I have at this point is the are the lil hauler locos. I plan to build the rolling stock for the puzzle cars. So I really haven’t gotten this far. I have acquired the couplers. So really I can do what ever I want. I am open.

#14

I prefer to always acquire the Aristo’ version of H’nLs. They also have the cutback option to bring in the rolling stock closer to each other. Also when doing the cutbac k option with the dremel I also cut the ‘tang’(?) up a bit (about 5mm off as a the horizontal cut) to eliminate snagging on the turnout components.

For uncoupling purposes I acquire a handful of (light brown) vinyl siding samples… cut them down to a scale 4’x8’ and leave 'round the layout (sidings, load/unload area) as derelict sheets of plywood. Even when the train is slowly cruising by ya can slip the ‘sheet’ btwn the loops… lightly push down and ya got disconnected rolling stock. At the end of the day, the train consist slowly shrinks down to just the engine when doing laps past the ‘unload’ point.

#15

Sounds like a good idea. The Aristo H&L’s AND the vinyl plywood. I’m going to do that. Thanks.