I need a 4-6-0 chassis in any condition WITH the drive rods.
OR
Just the Drive rods.
I will take Anniversary or Big Hauler (Anni preferred)
Also prefer the more complex rods but again… I need to have a running engine!!!
Motor does not have to run or even be present.
PM me please
I have several bags of plastic drive rods. Specify needs. I have complete engines of most vintages or chassis for same, motors, gears, cylinders, boilers, cabs…all of it. About a dozen or more fully disassembled and separately stored.
I even have a few radio chassis around somewhere.
Dave
Dave the drive rod assembly I have on my Big Hauler is broken and the parts are missiing. I have
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jswalls110/old valve.JPG)but it is broken.
what I would like is
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jswalls110/new valve.JPG)
If you can help in any way I would appreciate it.
Thanks!
For fifty bucks and shipping you get everything.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_148&products_id=4079
I know. That is possibility 2.
Right now my budget can’t handle that. I am trying to make do with what I have.
No Anniversary stuff. Does yours have plastic main rod, crossheads, and valve gear?
Is all that’s wrong is the guides are broken out of the back of the cylinders?
TOC
Yes they are plastic and the guide rods are broken.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/jswalls110/IMG_20130727_075859_091.jpg)
Okay…you have an early one, no valve gear…fitting the Anniversary assembly is not fun without the points on the frame AND the matching cylinder assembly.
You have the old part that’s broken?
I’ve fixed a lot by glue and pin…first off, the silvered parts come out. Sometimes lightly glued, but if the PRC workers were saving money on that shift, no glue.
Barry has metal replacements. Fit, drill, insert.
I had to do that on some heavily used and abused 4-6-0’s around here.
I can probably come up with one assembly for you. Just lightly flex open the parallels and stick your crosshead and piston rod in. Are you missing the rod and crosshead also?
TOC
I have the rod to the wheels and the piston rod. The rails around the rod are missing.
One side only.
Okay.
Usually I find the cylinder head is easiest to get off. Chisel blade xacto, I use the wide one, start from bottom or inside to hide any dings, pop it off. Then, brace the cylinder down in a vise, broken part down, using a rod (like a drift punch) and a small hammer, tap around the inside edge to knock loose.
Protect the cylinder in the vise with a cloth of wood…don’t clamp tight.
I like to put the support vertical, the centerline of the cylinders parallel with the jaw bolt so the paint won’t get hurt.
Now.
PM me your address.
Cost is shipping only.
TOC
The rod connecting all of the wheels on one side is a Siderod.
The rod from one driver to the cylinder is a Main Rod, which attaches to the crosshead in side the crosshead guide. Typical 4-6-0 has a double crosshead and some of the earlier smaller locos have a single rod slide (no crosshead).
The complex parts in the walschearts valve gear are typically unlabelled.
Barry
Barry thank you for chiming in.
I am in desparate need of a locomotive education!
