Hi,
I am almost afraid to ask this but has anyone ever heard of, or used, a product called “Scrubbing Bubbles” to apply vinyl decals. I am told it allows you to move the decal some before it dries and doesn’t decrease the stick, once it dries. This comes from an artist friend but I am skeptical. The decals had to be so big that I couldn’t use the usual decal that I am used to from Stan.
Jim
You might check with Del Tapparo at G Scale Graphics. If anyone would know, he would. Another go to guy is our own Daktah John.
Not sure about scrubbing bubbles, but a little soap in the water can make it easier to position the decal before sticking it down.
Yes, I have heard of using a bit of dish soap in water. In fact the guy at the auto body shop told me that trick. They use that trick to apply the wood grain stickers to the sides of cars. Scrubbing Bubbles is a mild soap. I use it to clean rubber copier rollers and the covers on copiers. I have never heard of using it in place of water with a little dish soap for applying stick ons, but if water with a little soap works, I don’t see why Scrubbing Bubbles wouldn’t work. You also want something to squeegee the stick on with, to move any air bubbles out from under the stick on. Thats the main reason for the water with dish soap idea.
With vinyl (all I use) it’s applied with an overlay film, if you don’t like the position you just gently pull it up and relocate. The trick to vinyl is to lay lightly on the surface and when happy with it’s location you press or squeegie it down poking out air with the tip of a sharp x-acto blade and a heat gun if needed.
Decals and vinyl transfers are not the same stuff
The actual stuff is called “Application Fluid”. The real stuff is more then just soapy water. It contains a couple of lubricates, and cleaners, and some alcohol stuff to assist with evaporation and bonding. Yes, a couple of drops of liquid soap in some water will work, But not always, on all surfaces. You have to be careful not to leave a film behind between the adhesive and the surface you want to bond to. Leaving a film behind can decrease the bonding. Application Fluid is also used as a cleaner/prep on the surface to bond to.
Dave, do you have a product name for the “application fluid”? BTW, Boomer said to say hi. We’re making a RailRunnner out of an ICE II with these vinyl decals.
Jim
The product is called Rapid Tac (at least what I’ve seen) but honestly I don’t think you will need it for a job that size.
Tell Boomer that Rooster said hello!
We usually just use any old hand soap in water. Looks like crap under clear vinyl, but OK with opaque.
Some good info here.
Not sure about vinyl, but I know my sister has used scrubbing bubbles it to kill spiders in the bathroom.
I smelled that distinctive scrubbing bubbles smell and thought she cleaned the bathroom. Nope there was a spider 
Using soap seems counterintuitve to me. I used to use that to make water “wetter” for decals and settling ballast. Seems to me you would want a clear, dry surface for the vinyl glue. I would wipe the surface lightly with alcohol, or maybe wash with Dawn and water and make sure it is rinsed and dried well. I have had good success with vinyl letters that I do on my Cricut machine. Nothing comes off after I cover it with clear coat.
The adhesive on the vinyl is not water soluble. Once the application fluid (whatever you choose to use) has allowed the vinyl to be positioned where you want it, you squeegee the fluid out from the center to the edges. As you do, the adhesive starts to tack. When you have removed all the fluid and applied moderate pressure the vinyl adhesive achieves it’s maximum tack.
This technique is usually used for large applications and/or applications where alignment is critical. In our model world it isn’t something I personally see a need for. At our shop we only apply “wet” when it is the only option. Experienced installers usually prefer dry techniques. My job is fabrication. I rarely do vinyl application at work. When I do it’s always dry. I’ve not tried to master the wet technique. The guys that letter vehicles at our shop use it more often.
OK Guys… Listen to the good Daktah, and what he says… For our train stuff, any vinyl that is to be applied, just needs to be put down on a good, very clean, the smother the better, surface. Rubbed on well, will make the letters stick better. We’re talking rather small letters and not a really large area of adhesive on any one letter. I haven’t found a vinyl that reacts negatively to a top coat of protective spray. I do know that the spray does seal the edges and helps keep the fragile letters where they belong.
Application fluid is sold only in Gallon jugs by my supplier, and that lasts a long long time.
…and use a squeegee for getting rid of the air bubbles if any…
suggested reading
In this particular application on the LGB ICE II, the vinyl covers the entire side, front, rear, and top of the car/engine, 4 in this case. The LGB ICE II is very cheap, no windows nothing just a plastic tube. The “windows”, “doors”, etc., are part of the vinyl that I am applying. I have eight sheets that are roughly 4" x 20" in size, just for the sides, and placement is critical, hence I was looking for something that would allow a little movement while applying, like a regular decal when it is applied. I have Amazon ordered Rapid Prep and Rapid Tac and will test it before using on the cars.
I am modeling after a local NM commuter train and my local club, NMGRC, is doing the same. One other member has already completed his a couple years ago and had trouble getting everything in place using the dry method. We could have used the LGB Genesis and cars if they had been available but it would have added and extra “0” at the end of the cost which was out of the question.
Thanks all for your help.
Jim
It would pay off to visit the local sign shop with a small bottle and purchase some fluid and ask some questions.
Jim, PM me an address and I’ll send you some. For what you’r doing, WET is best.
If you go to the local sign company, Hat in hand, they may just want to help you do it. Remember “Trains are Cool” at least to some people.
That’s where the decals came from…they have the master. They prefer the dry method, but then they do it every day, or at least when someone buys a new police car!