Large Scale Central

Vinyl concrete

Modeling
#1

About a week after reading Kevin Strong’s “40 Years” article on his Dad’s layout in the latest GR, I also read his dad’s “The Woodland Railway - 25 Years and Still Counting” article in 2005 GR. I’m slowly collecting and reading GR back issues, and this is one I recently obtained, so it was ironic to see these two articles back to back, and fascinating to see this famous layout over that time span.

One thing that grabbed me in Jim Strong’s article was the statement: “All the buildings were constructed of vinyl concrete stuccoed over styrofoam bases.” This was in the caption of a photo that I’m posting a phone-pic portion of here:

Aren’t those roofs (I guess no one says “rooves” anymore) amazing?!?

I looked up the stuff, and found this version from Quickrete:

Per the manufacturer: “QUIKRETE® Vinyl Concrete Patcher (No. 1133) is a multi-purpose concrete repair material with strong adhesive properties. Trowels to a feather edge of 1/16” (1.6 mm). Made of a special blend of exterior grade vinyl resin, fine sand, and portland cement. Just add water."

This sounds like it will really stick to foam board or various kinds, especially since Jim said it stuck well to styrofoam. For sculpted roofs and walls, it looks waterproof and durable.

I’ve put the question to Kevin, and I’m sure he’ll respond; but I can’t keep myself from asking y’all as well: have you used this stuff? How well does it stick and last and hold a paint finish?

===:}Cliffy

Edit: Here’s an interesting comparison of thin concrete mixes like this that are good for “crafting” outdoors.

Nuther edit: Is this a viable (and much less expensive) alternative to the 2-part epoxy clays, like Magic Sculp?

#2

Seems like I have seen pictures of buildings made with that over foam either here on on the Facebook pages. I am thinking of doing a version of a concrete tilt up Warehouse using it

#3

I used it years ago when building Deep Cut Tunnel (a.k.a. Fred’s Tomb) to repair a failed casting. Worked perfect for that and has lasted for years with no issues. I did not paint it.

#4

www.rrstoneworks.com is a web site full of information on vinyl patch buildings.

Dennis

#5

I made a culvert 14 years ago using Jim Strong’s technique. After a little practice I found it to be a great method. Here’s the work in progress.

(http://largescalecentral.com/FileSharing/user_2849/Structures/Culvert-8.jpg)

And here’s the culvert 14 years later. It shows no structural failures at all.

(http://largescalecentral.com/FileSharing/user_2849/Structures/Culverta.jpg)

Doc

#6

Yay! Another project for our foam bits! I had been wondering about this method, so thanks for sharing!

#7

If you go to freight sheds and search “Structures” and select Don Watson you’ll find Jim Strong’s article on this technique. You have to view the several jpgs.

They are located in js-1.jpg through js-5.jpg

Doc

#8

All great info guys! Thanks Dennis, I’ve just been perusing some materials at Stoneworks, that’s an excellent resource. Have you used the stuff?

A video they have goes over (100%) concrete roofs:

Jon thanks for affirming the longevity of this stuff! And that its bonds so well to the older concrete. Fred’s tomb??! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

And Don, ditto. I’m amazed that you could used it over cheap blue foam and that it would last so well. Perhaps full encasement of the foam (on the side racing the elements) is part of your success? Or do the exposed sides of the foam stay intact (and not get powdery / etc.)?

[edit] I just saw your folder Don, thanks very much for pointing that out. I was hoping there would be an article by Jim Strong on this, so this is great.

Cliff

#9

Cliff Jennings said:

Jon thanks for affirming the longevity of this stuff! And that its bonds so well to the older concrete. Fred’s tomb??! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Cliff

Do you really want to know?

#10

Hahaa! Nothing says “rest in peace” like being deposited onto the track in a railroad tunnel! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

No disrespect to Fred, of course!

#11

Cliff,

I learned the hard way that you need to protect the exposed side of blue foam. Many years ago, when I still lived in Northern VA, I built some tunnel portals using this method. Sixteen years after I installed them we decided to move to NC. When I removed them I discovered that most of the foam had been eaten away by insects. All that remained was the concrete shell. BTW, they were still intact so I installed them on my new layout.

When I built the culverts, I covered the exposed foam backing with Quikrete liquid crack filler, brushed on. I’m hoping that will solve the problem.

Doc

#12

Cliif

You asked if I have used products from Stoneworks. Glen and Sherry from Stoneworks and My wife and I are good friends, I have done a concrete roof. For me as a steel fabricator I prefer steel products because of the convenience and availability. I do know Glen has created several KITS for the concrete technique. For many people, it is a great way to go. I do highly recommend that technique. If you want to leave your structures outside it is a way to go.

Dennis

#13

Thanks Don for the further info on the foam board. I’m sort of surprised it lasted that well, for so long! So completely encasing it with the cement makes total sense, and I’m glad that approach was effective.

Dennis, I KNEW you’d know about this stuff, haha!! And not only know, but have family ties to it, as it were. Thanks for the backstory and recommendation!

Bottom line, from all that’s been said, this seems to be an excellent surface material that sticks to almost anything that’s reasonably rigid. It can also have volume, as Jon points out. It lasts indefinitely, takes paint well, and does a good job sealing its substrate.

#14

One additional tip. Before I applied the concrete, I poked a bunch of holes in the foam to help give the concrete something to grab onto.

Doc

#15

a side note, it took a bit for follow the “pages” from Jim Strong’s article. but after clicking here and there I figured it out, click on the images in this order 1-5-4-2-3 and you can follow the article. but you may need to go back and forth to see the images when they are discussing the steps. so page photos are as follows Page one contains the beauty shots, Page 5 has photos from the text of the article of photo1-2-3, Page 4 has photos 4-5-6 and page 2 has photo 7. I am going to gather the materials to try this, Thanks Don for the images and the article

#16

I think I have the answer to the approaches to one of my bridges. Lots of foam scraps begging for a use as the sugar mill takes shape!

Thanks again!

Eric