Large Scale Central

USAT Mighty Moe?

Howdy Rail fans

Just picked up a lightyly used USAT Mighty Moe from a starter set and had a question. Did these even originally come in starter sets? The box shows a NW2, but there is more concern. I put it on my outdoor layout and it ran fine with a quick test back and forth. I then put a 20’ 2 axle boxcar behind it and sent it out for a lap. When it hit the up grades it stopped and spun its wheels. I took the motor cover off expecting a split gear but they were fine.

I’m thinking it needs some weight added but… we are talking 1 shorty boxcar up a 2% grade. The wheels on the box spin freely so no drag there.

This doesn’t sound right to me or am I expecting too much out of this little engine?

Can anyone who has experience with these please chime in.

Todd

I used to have one - sold it off a few years ago. I don’t recall ever taking it out on my 5% mainline. I also don’t recall it not being able to pull. I think it was pretty hefty for a small engine. I do remember it stalling on insulated frogs.

How do the wheels look; could they be oily? Plating worn off?

Any parts of the engine dragging?

Does it feel light? Maybe previous owner removed the weight.

It does feel heavy like the weights are still there but I didn’t see them but they are probably under the hood. The wheels and skates are very clean. This engine looks new and as nice as the other pieces I bought which were barely used.

I testd it on its own and it was still slipping here and there. The wheels don’t seem oily but I will clean them then give it another go.

Thanks

Can you turn either axle with your fingers? If so, the axle drive gear may not be meshing with the motor worm gear. I have repaired a lot a USAT blocks that were not re-assembled properly by their owners.

If you hold one wheel on an axle, can you turn the other with your fingers? Is so, the axle is slipping in the drive gear sleeve.

To answer the other question, yes they were available in starter sets, if memory serves, the MM, a boxcar and a caboose.

Had another look at it and it isn’t easy but I can turn one of the axles a couple of clicks in one direction only. Gonna have to take the cover off and have another look. It sounds like the gears are not meshing correctly.

Funny thing I have never seen this set, most of them do come with the NW2 but on the way home today I stopped at a train shop and guess what, they had the exact same preowned set and guess what it was $125 more than I just paid. I say I got a good deal.

If the gears are not meshing, check to see that both the top and bottom plates are on with no cracks between them and the motor block.

The most common problem on the bottom is the brass axle bushings are not seated flat in the slots in the sides of the motor block. That will stop the cover from fastening properly.

The seating of the thrust screw holder in the motor block in the most common reason the top plate does not seat properly.

Well took the cover off and pulled the axles out and guess what a cracked gear. I cleaned it up of grease and will try and fix it.

I contacted the guy who sold it to me to ask him if he had any problems with it and he wrote back no but he did say it had been in storage for near 6 years so Iwould say it is age that got to it.

I’m gonna try and glue it.

There are a couple of easy home-brew fixes for the gear. One is to get it all cleaned up then wrap tightly with fishing line then use CA glue to keep the line tight and bonded together.

Tony found a tubing size that was an interference fit over the gear. I may have a few here that I got from him years ago and never used.

USA might have the axle with gear in stock. They have been known to replace them for free if you ask nice. If you ever get near Malden, stopping in with the loco would probably score a replacement.

Here is a picture of the fishing line fix that Jon referred to.

(http://ovgrs.editme.com/files/Fixes/Gear02.jpg)

Thanks guys. I’m gonna try and find a over tube for it and if no luck will go to the fishing line fix.

It is nice that Bachmann is getting away from these plastic gears so maybe USAT should too.

The splitting seems to be a common problem.

Jon if you ever want to sell off your old stock of “tony bushings” let me know, between my friends and myself, we have enough cracked axles to last a lifetime ha ha!

Greg

I believe this is Tony at the hammer!

(http://www.elmassian.com/images/stories/motivepower/USAT/axles-04-press-on-rings.jpg)

Greg Elmassian said:

Jon if you ever want to sell off your old stock of “tony bushings” let me know, between my friends and myself, we have enough cracked axles to last a lifetime ha ha!

Greg

I believe this is Tony at the hammer!

(http://www.elmassian.com/images/stories/motivepower/USAT/axles-04-press-on-rings.jpg)

Finding them would be the issue Greg :] If I run across them I’ll let you know. I only have one USA engine left and I have a spare set of axles w/gears for that one.

No biggie Jon, if it happens sometime that would be great, if not, no problem.

These are the ones Tony had made, there is now a thinner wall K&S tubing that is pretty close that can be made to work.

I found that the smaller trucks, like the NW2 or S4 (can’t remember which) have less clearance around this area and you may have to grind away some internal plastic to clear the tubing/fishing line.

Regards, Greg

Greg Elmassian said:

No biggie Jon, if it happens sometime that would be great, if not, no problem.

These are the ones Tony had made, there is now a thinner wall K&S tubing that is pretty close that can be made to work.

I found that the smaller trucks, like the NW2 or S4 (can’t remember which) have less clearance around this area and you may have to grind away some internal plastic to clear the tubing/fishing line.

Regards, Greg

That could be why I still have them. I remember that they were either too big or too small for the 45 Ton that I was repairing. I ended up using the fishing line until I could get replacements from USA.

Good to know the fishing line cleared… now that I think about it, it was 2 45 tonners… both had splits new in the box… one santa fe, one undec…

Greg

I have the moe, also known as a 20 tonner and it pulls real well, almost as well as the LGB original Davenport the 2063 D&RGW with the lead weights.

Ro show special at $50 years ago. These are no longer being made last I talked with the Ro people in the Malden store.

New trouble with the Mighty Moe. I fixed the split axle shafts by using a nylon tube and glue. Yes they do fit in there. I put it all back together and the motor is dead. Stripped it right down last night expecting to see a broken wire or worse a burned one and nothing was obviously wrong? I put power to the motor block without the wheels and it worked. I then put the wheels back on, closed up the block, put power to it and nothing? Took the bottom cover back off. removed the wheels, applied power and still nothing. Tried it again this morning without the wheels in the block and still no go.

What do you think is wrong? I had the wheels off the gears and when they went back on I checked the gauge so the axles are not touching inside the gear to cause a short.

??

Could your fix be binding somewhere?

Your last post says that the motor did not turn with the wheels out… when it did before.

You have an intermittent connection somewhere.

Apply power to the motor tabs directly and convince yourself that it is fine…

Then test the wires to the motor one at a time… work outwards from the motor.

Greg