Beautiful cars. If I was still into 1:29 I’d kill for a set!
Jon Radder said:
Beautiful cars. If I was still into 1:29 I’d kill for a set!
What would you kill?
Geez, how can you “leave” 1/29 scale? All that great stuff from USA Trains, Aristocraft, AML… (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Yeah at this juncture, it’s the easiest scale to be in.
Back to the thread, looks like the coupler box is identical to the ones on the USAT Streamliners, so for the people who asked about Kadee mounting, I will refer to Ted’s vignette:
Will check out the cars and see if the coupler setback is the same.
Greg
Rooster ’ said:
Greg Elmassian said:
Agreed, one of the biggest problems with the Aristo truck is the off center mounting, causes all kinds of problems. Also many people removed the center axle to allow running on tighter curves. The issues with the Aristo designs is much more complex.
Will torture test on my S curves if it stops raining.
Greg
Could you please share the complexity difference between the Aristo design and Charlies? I’m only curious as you purchasers are the master beta testers of the manufactured cars in hand. I’m just trying to understand and only relying on the feedback as perhaps someone that is coming into this hobby might be interested?
If interested in the Aristo Heavyweight car trucks and what can be done for improvements, see vignette, title:
Aristo-Craft Heavyweight Passenger Car 3 Axle Truck Types (Includes Mitigation Fixes)
-Ted
I’d really like to focus on the USAT cars, rather than derail the topic. Read what Ted wrote and I wrote on my site. A lot of good information out there for the reading, that many people have already availed themselves of.
Rooster, if you really want that information as opposed to derailing the topic or fighting with me, start a new topic, I’d be happy to answer and substantiate my opinions. Sorry to make such a statement, but you have made your bed with the one liners and useless comments, and your confrontational comment above.
Aww, it’s a waste of breath, STFU Rooster
Greg
These are starting to show up on ebay at $400 a pop.
I did some measurements this morning on the lights in my observation. I used a brand new 9v battery because that is what I hope to use since I will only be using the markers and drumhead. The current draw with all lights on is about 110ma. With only the markers and drumhead it is about 24ma. When first turned on the current draw is a little higher for about 15 seconds while I’m guessing the circuit that prevents light flickering charges. Just a guess. After that it settles down to the values I stated. If I remove power leaving all lights on the lights will stay on for about 1 minute before fading out. The markers and drumhead by themselves about 2 minutes. For those that run track power I would guess that there should be no light flickering. Hope this helps.
I was a little surprised to have paid full list, but happy to support my vendor RLD and USAT in this tough market. Looks like it was a pretty good price all things considered.
Will keep unboxing and see what I find.
Greg
RLD currently has the USAT Heavyweights at $281.89 ea (except for the observation car at $296.89) This is the same pricing as the USAT Streamline passenger cars that have been offered by RLD for a few years now.
To clarify on price, I paid the “advertised retail price” on the 10 car set, https://charlesro-com.3dcartstores.com/usatrains_heavyweight_passengercar.html
(scroll down to see the special pricing on buying a “Set”)
Buying them in the set is a discount, but not much cheaper than the RLD “onsie” price, that is what I was a bit surprised at.
Greg
Rooster ’ said:
Jon Radder said:
Beautiful cars. If I was still into 1:29 I’d kill for a set!
What would you kill?
Buffalo Bill ?
Greg Elmassian said:
I’d really like to focus on the USAT cars, rather than derail the topic. Read what Ted wrote and I wrote on my site. A lot of good information out there for the reading, that many people have already availed themselves of.
Rooster, if you really want that information as opposed to derailing the topic or fighting with me, start a new topic, I’d be happy to answer and substantiate my opinions. Sorry to make such a statement, but you have made your bed with the one liners and useless comments, and your confrontational comment above.
Aww, it’s a waste of breath, STFU Rooster
Greg
I’m not understanding and trying to learn from the experts and I simply asked a question about the trucks ?
What is STFU ?
Greg Elmassian said:
To clarify on price, I paid the “advertised retail price” on the 10 car set, https://charlesro-com.3dcartstores.com/usatrains_heavyweight_passengercar.html
(scroll down to see the special pricing on buying a “Set”)
Buying them in the set is a discount, but not much cheaper than the RLD “onsie” price, that is what I was a bit surprised at.
Greg
Yeah, small guy RLD Hobbies is offering the same deal as USAT on the 10-car heavyweight set. Either way, it helps Charlie stay in business. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Greg Elmassian said:
To clarify on price, I paid the “advertised retail price” on the 10 car set, https://charlesro-com.3dcartstores.com/usatrains_heavyweight_passengercar.html
(scroll down to see the special pricing on buying a “Set”)
Buying them in the set is a discount, but not much cheaper than the RLD “onsie” price, that is what I was a bit surprised at.
Greg
The proper spelling is “onesie” and not sure what surprises you about that?
Good looking train! Some of my USA smooth side passenger cars came in today from Fred. They look good also. 10 years of waiting to build a train. They will look wonderful like yours behind the 2 matching E-8’s when they all arrive. Now I have a reason to clean up the track!
I sure would like to get the UP cars. Havent checked to see if RLD has them or if the are still in transit. Later RJD
A little follow up on lighting. I ran the markers and drumhead in my observation for about 18 hours starting with a fresh 9v Duracell. They were still bright after the 18 hours. So I’m happy with that. Here is a copy of my earlier post. There is an even earlier post showing how I converted to battery.
I did some measurements this morning on the lights in my observation. I used a brand new 9v battery because that is what I hope to use since I will only be using the markers and drumhead. The current draw with all lights on is about 110ma. With only the markers and drumhead it is about 24ma. When first turned on the current draw is a little higher for about 15 seconds while I’m guessing the circuit that prevents light flickering charges. Just a guess. After that it settles down to the values I stated. If I remove power leaving all lights on the lights will stay on for about 1 minute before fading out. The markers and drumhead by themselves about 2 minutes. For those that run track power I would guess that there should be no light flickering. Hope this helps.
I’ll be pulling them apart soon to look at the circuit, my guess is a simple regulator and a cap to store power.
Have almost unboxed all cars, and found the single stirrup for the Diner car, and the 2 for the combine as you mentioned Paul, I put this on my site to warn people. Did you put yours on and check for clearance?
Greg
Greg,
I put the two on the baggage/parlor car. I don’t think there will be any problem. I tested it on about a 6’ radius in my staging yard. No problem. I doubt anyone will be able to use the one for the diner. I’m hoping to get some photos in the next couple of days out on he layout. My idea for close coupling is going to work fine on my layout. Only takes about five minutes per car. It brings them 5/16 closer together. I think I e-mailed you photos a couple days ago.