When you converted a USA Trains NW-2 to onboard battery and rc control , what AA batteries size mahs did you use to make up the pack , and how many AA batts in it ?
Where did you place the battery pack in the NW-2 ?
About how much run time did this provide roughly , light load no grades ?
Thank you
I can’t speak for the NW-2, but the AAs I’ve been using are the regular Energizer NiMH batteries you can get in the store. They’re around 2400 mAh (I’ve got some that say “2500,” some that say “2350,” and some that say “2300.” I don’t think the batteries are any different, perhaps the truth patrol toned down the optimistic rating. Regardless, they all run my trains for around 3 hours give or take. I use 12 AAs for a total of 14.4 volts, and that’s plenty fast for my railroad. If you’re running your NW-2 at express train speeds, you may want to bump that up by two or four individual cells but I really don’t think you’ll need to. Even at 14 volts, I’m seldom more than half or 2/3 throttle.
Later,
K
I put 12 4500MAH NiMH cells in my NW-2. I used 4/3A-FAUX cells and placed them in the hood next to the cab.
By all means use AA size cells. As long as you understand that AA size NiCd & NiMH have a limited current ability. They are designed to give a smallish current for a long time. The most they can give continuously WITHOUT degrading the life span of the cells, is about 1/2 half an amp. Any more than that and the number of re-charges they can handle is significantly reduced.
Thank you all for the information .
I had been wanting to use 8 AA cells in the fuel tank , but that does not seem enough regards what you have done . So , I guess I will go back to maybe useing the rc plane lipos that I already have , namely useing 2 Parkzone 3 cell 1300 mah lipos in parallel , about 12 volts and 2600 mahs , and with some sanding of the tank , they both will fit .
I have been carefull with my lipos for years now , and it would be more use of the batteries that I already have and use .
Because with the rc planes , its too hot , or too cold , or too windy , or too dark , or raining , of course none of these conditions stop me from running my trains for some reason .
Thanks again
Dennis. Another caution.
I may be wrong of course, but, it is my understanding that typically, the Li-Po’s (and Li-Ion’s) used for planes do not switch off completely when discharged. They leave a little bit of power (not enough to run a motor) to run the controls whilst you land, turn off and recharge.
That means for our use they may discharge below the cut off threshold if left unattended. If they get too low, you will kill them.
Look for Li-Po packs that shut off COMPLETELY.
Edit note. Added reference to Li-Ion batts.
Alternatively, go with a Li-Ion pack. I’m just finishing a conversion over to14/8 volt, 2600 mAh Li-Ions, the packs are nominally 3" x 3" x 3/4". Don’t know offhand the size of the tank on the NW-2, but I once fit 12 AA in the tank of a 44-tonner with room to spare. The Li-Ions aren’t much taller, maybe 1/8" - 1/4".
Later,
K
Thanks again , I learned early on that with lipos you land and measure cell voltage , a lot , untill you learned the safe amount of time to fly , and retain a safety amount of time as well .
So in my use of the lipos , I will not be leaving them in place , I have other uses for the batterys , just as I currently use lipos in a HLW Interurban combine , baggage door is great for swapping out the battery .
And if I modify the NW2 , it also will have the batteries removed from the fuel tank , fuel tank is a easy on and off .
The NW2 fuel tank will accept something 2 1/4 " , 2 3/4 " , 1 " , easy .
The onboard battery with rc is a nice addition here if need be , I operate track power , overhead catenary power , and with the batt / rc , this gives me 3 powered units on the same track with out dcc or such .[ I do have DCC Digitrax with my HO trains ] but not outside , yet .
And I use my rc plane / helicopter lipo batteries and with the 2.4 ghz transmitters , to also operate my trains .
Oh yes , last year I 'landed" a plane in the top of a really tall tree , many hours later , my son got it down with no damage , to the plane , but , with the lipo being on all the time while in the tree , I had a SWOLLEN 3 cell lipo , yep , it was bad , and voltage was like 5 volts for a 3 cell , 9 volts being the low limit cut off for 3 cells .
Lipos are things that need care in use , but they are usefull .
If you use lithium batteries to power your vacuum, does that make it lipo-suction?
Later,
K
I used a pack that was designed for the NW-2 in my Heisler with very good results. I got these from NW Remote Control.
Paul
Kevin Strong said:
If you use lithium batteries to power your vacuum, does that make it lipo-suction?Later,
K
Dennis, I am right in the middle of converting two USA’s NW-2 Cow & Calf loco’s to battery-power. I had planned on using a 22.2V 5200mah Lithium-Ion battery-pack to power both loco’s from inside the Calf, and I may remove the weight’s from inside. But I intend to use the QSI Magnum in both loco’s linked to one battery that will produce 25.2V at full charge. I will take photo’s as I go along, but I’m guessing I’ll get around 3 1/2 - 4 hours of runtime pulling around 10 cars. But I think lithium batteries are the way to go with this install, light-weight, greater amp draw, higher voltage with less cells in series, and I can fit them in a tight space. I keep you updated.
Rick Isard
Cordless Renovations, LLC
Thanks Rick , please post the install , details , with pictures .
Dennis, after taking off the Calf two part cover I see that the best way to install a battery-pack is in two parts, or two batteries in each Cow & Calf. So, I can either fit one 14.8V 2600mah Lilthium-ion battery-pack under the engineer cabin, remove the weight’s and make the pack 2 X 2 brick, and it fits. Then remove the rear weight and place the other 2 x 2 brick under the front cover. I would keep the middle weight but because the heat sink is so big and I need room for the QSI Magnum Receiver Board, I would replace the heat sink with a smaller version and add a small fan under the front cover and suck air into the cab.
After talking with customers at SEGRS and seeing how much room there was for a 16.8V AA2300mah Nimh battery-pack, I thought a could fit a 18.5V 5200mah lithium-ion battery-pack under the front cover, but that’s not the case. I still have not decided what is the best coarse of action here. I think I can place one 18.5V 5200mah lithium-ion battery in the middle of the cover, but I will have to remove the weight and cut-off the plastic stand-off that holds the weight in place, leaving a hole in the car? Or do a two pack systems. I’ll keep you posted and I’ll upload pictures in a couple of days. If I have time, this may be ready for St. Aubin’s Open House on May 15th & 16th?
Rick Isard
Cordless Renovations, LLC
Oh, one more thing…I also need to take into account that I need to be able to charge both batteries, either inside the engine or have a DPDT switch between the battery-packs and have an external charger to charge one battery at a time. Because I’m about a month away from coming out with a base charger that will charge two lithium batteries and one nickel at the same time.
So much to do and not enough time…
Rick Isard
Cordless Renovations, LLC
I just did the NW2 with Revolution control and on board battery and used the 14.8 v 2600mah Lithium Ion pack. This was a customers engine and pulling 3 cars last over 3 hours. I can say that because at the 3 hour mark I gave up waiting for it to die. I also removed all of the USAT wiring and replaced all lamps with LEDs and a 680 resistor
John
Is this useing AristoCraft control and battery ? Is the battery in the engine compartment ?
thanks
Dennis
Yes I remove the hunk of lead in front of the cab under the hood.
Yes the Aristo Revolution but any of the controlers on the market will do pretty much the same.
Thank you , whos battery , what mfr batt fit in there . Thanks
I used Cordless Renovations CR-1600 . I am the Canadain dealer for them , but they are sold at daelers in the US or contact Rick through their web site