Reason #259 why I’m glad I model the pre-airbrake era. 
BTW, Accucraft will be shortly releasing a new operating 1:32 coupler which is a direct swap out for the Kadee #820 coupler. The two mate rather nicely.
Later,
K
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
That guy has ENTIRELY tooooooo much time on his hands…
Hey Bruce
Where do you get your mini lag screws to mount Accucraft couplers to the end beam? I just ran out and need more, but dang if I can remember where I got em!
Micro Mark…they have lots of different sizes, but I do believe that those are the large ones.
Here it is: #2 x 1/2 INCH MINIATURE LAG SCREWS (PKG. OF 50)
Bruce Chandler said:
Good thing I'm not a politician - I've got lots of words that come back to haunt me. ;)OK, so I flip-flopped on that position.
Heheh!
I wonder, in another 15 or 20 years, will they be able to find anyone to run for office who hasn’t posted something online that comes back to haunt them?
BTW, I like your working glad-hands. Very cool, and a good article too.
Bruce Chandler said:Bob, Bruce: In addition to Micro-Mark, here are a couple of more sources for small fastener hardware:
Here it is: #2 x 1/2 INCH MINIATURE LAG SCREWS (PKG. OF 50)
–and–
Scale Hardware is amazing! Special Shapes Co. is much more limited. Both are quick and accurate delivery.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
Thanks Jerry! These holds lots of potential for the LS modeler
I’m thinking of maybe using the Kadee #1 Gauge couplers, because the small size might be more “scale-like” for a narrow gauge RR. If I do use them, which coupler height gauge should I use?
Kadee’s recommended height for the #1 scale coupler is to have the centerline 1 1/16" above the railhead. If your goal is to be able to couple to guests’ trains who are Kadee equipped, then it’s probably wise to stay with that, or right around there. If you’re planning on using Kadee’s automatic (magnetic) uncouplers, then you’ll need to stick with Kadee’s recommended height.
If you’re taking a bit more independent route, you can set the height wherever you feel necessary. On most narrow gauge railroads, the coupler height was between 24" and 26" above the railhead (typically equal to the diameter of the most common freight car wheel diameter). I’ve got mine set at 30mm (approximately 1 3/16"), or 24" at 1:20.3. At that height, the trip pin does no good, as it’s too high above the track to be triggered by the magnets, so (thankfully) they get cut off.
Later,
K
I think the question was; “Which gauge should I use…for the #1 gauge Kadee Couplers ?”…well Kadee has two gauges for LS couplers…one for the so called #1 gauge couplers: #829, and the one for the so called “G” gauge couplers: #880. Using them is the best way to assure your self of good operation.
Some people cut the “Tails” off the couplers, “Because they hit rails and stuff on the track”…before you blame the tails for being too low…check the coupler for height…most often the tails ARE NOT AT FAULT; it’s the couplers that are mounted too low. The tails do give an “Impression” of air hoses, and when cut off, do leave a void that you notice after. Having those simulated air hoses provided with the couplers saves the trouble of adding air hoses at another expense, and more labour.
What surprises the heck outta me is the loss of skills required to re-bend the tails as needed.
Lower them when the coupler height you have chosen is too high, raie them when too low.
I’ve tweaked a bunch for folks.
A good pair of adjustable water pump pliers works very well, as you know Dave, but a lot of people don’t know how to apply them…!!!
I cut them off with the idea of putting regular air hoses on. I sometimes get the second part accomplished, but not always.
You’re gonna’ dismiss this out of hand if you’re a scale freak, but here goes nothing.
I only care about reliable operation, not looks, so I use hook and loops because they are just so darn simple and reliable, that even the grandkids can figure them out without my having to draw them a picture every time. My eight-year old granddaughter can handle them easy as pie. Visitors “get” them right away.
You can set them to delay with a coffee stir stick. You can uncouple them with that stir stick too. You can uncouple them with a credit card.
I prefer to have a hook on the back end of my cars only, and on front and back of switch engines because they might end up oriented East-or-Westbound and still have to couple up.
I’m so used to the way they look now that I don’t fuss about their appearance - they’re just toy trains for Godsake, I don’t feel the need to explain - they work really well and I don’t spend any time agonizing over couplers - end of story!
All my so-called scale couplers are in a box for if I ever change my mind.
I’m having so much fun now that I can’t see that happening.
Hey guys,
Saw in 1 of the posts about Precision Scale #1 couplers. Where can I buy them from? Did a Google search and nothing came up! thanks Will
With link & pins three words are most uesfull …Really Big Tweezers.
Boy, talk about restarting a conversation from the past. Still valid thoughts.