I’m thinking of maybe using the Kadee #1 Gauge couplers, because the small size might be more “scale-like” for a narrow gauge RR. If I do use them, which coupler height gauge should I use?
Kadee’s recommended height for the #1 scale coupler is to have the centerline 1 1/16" above the railhead. If your goal is to be able to couple to guests’ trains who are Kadee equipped, then it’s probably wise to stay with that, or right around there. If you’re planning on using Kadee’s automatic (magnetic) uncouplers, then you’ll need to stick with Kadee’s recommended height.
If you’re taking a bit more independent route, you can set the height wherever you feel necessary. On most narrow gauge railroads, the coupler height was between 24" and 26" above the railhead (typically equal to the diameter of the most common freight car wheel diameter). I’ve got mine set at 30mm (approximately 1 3/16"), or 24" at 1:20.3. At that height, the trip pin does no good, as it’s too high above the track to be triggered by the magnets, so (thankfully) they get cut off.
Later,
K
I think the question was; “Which gauge should I use…for the #1 gauge Kadee Couplers ?”…well Kadee has two gauges for LS couplers…one for the so called #1 gauge couplers: #829, and the one for the so called “G” gauge couplers: #880. Using them is the best way to assure your self of good operation.
Some people cut the “Tails” off the couplers, “Because they hit rails and stuff on the track”…before you blame the tails for being too low…check the coupler for height…most often the tails ARE NOT AT FAULT; it’s the couplers that are mounted too low. The tails do give an “Impression” of air hoses, and when cut off, do leave a void that you notice after. Having those simulated air hoses provided with the couplers saves the trouble of adding air hoses at another expense, and more labour.
What surprises the heck outta me is the loss of skills required to re-bend the tails as needed.
Lower them when the coupler height you have chosen is too high, raie them when too low.
I’ve tweaked a bunch for folks.
A good pair of adjustable water pump pliers works very well, as you know Dave, but a lot of people don’t know how to apply them…!!!
I cut them off with the idea of putting regular air hoses on. I sometimes get the second part accomplished, but not always.
You’re gonna’ dismiss this out of hand if you’re a scale freak, but here goes nothing.
I only care about reliable operation, not looks, so I use hook and loops because they are just so darn simple and reliable, that even the grandkids can figure them out without my having to draw them a picture every time. My eight-year old granddaughter can handle them easy as pie. Visitors “get” them right away.
You can set them to delay with a coffee stir stick. You can uncouple them with that stir stick too. You can uncouple them with a credit card.
I prefer to have a hook on the back end of my cars only, and on front and back of switch engines because they might end up oriented East-or-Westbound and still have to couple up.
I’m so used to the way they look now that I don’t fuss about their appearance - they’re just toy trains for Godsake, I don’t feel the need to explain - they work really well and I don’t spend any time agonizing over couplers - end of story!
All my so-called scale couplers are in a box for if I ever change my mind.
I’m having so much fun now that I can’t see that happening.
Hey guys,
Saw in 1 of the posts about Precision Scale #1 couplers. Where can I buy them from? Did a Google search and nothing came up! thanks Will
With link & pins three words are most uesfull …Really Big Tweezers.
Boy, talk about restarting a conversation from the past. 
Still valid thoughts.
Ric Golding said:Let me tell you a story:
Boy, talk about restarting a conversation from the past. ;-) Still valid thoughts.
It happened one day maybe 5 years ago: I was selling a new LGB starter set I had extra to a nice lady & I had it set up on the living room floor for her. I had always dismissed those couplers. I come from a long background of being a scale freak… but this time there they were and I had to use 'em tonight.
I was surprised by how well they coupled, even on those tight curves, how well they held, how easiy they were to uncouple, how easy they were to uncouple, and how they were no problem in backing up, and especially, how readily the nice lady ‘got’ how they worked.
This experience was an eye-opener. Then the grandkids came along, and visiting novice operators… and I remembered, and made the switch.
After that I played with some 00 - 4mm on 16.5mm -English gear equipped with tension-lock couplers. That’s hook and loop with an additional backwards barb on the hook to prevent accidental parting of the train over uncoupling ramps.
These Brit couplers have been highly refined, a little at a time, over the past 50-odd years. They are gravity-powered, which is better than the LGB spring powered upward motion, they work amazingly with their uncoupling ramps.
They tilt up to the right when seen from the car end. The tilt is one of several very clever innovations: it causes the couplers to contact one another at one point only, in a cross formation. They don’t slip over or under each other, and they can be pushed very easily based on that single contact point. These couplers can be delayed too.
It got better when Max Sarazen from Cape Cod showed me how easily I can delay my large scale hook and loops.
You’re right, Ric, this topic is an old chestnut, isn’t it? There’s always something new to add to the conversation. In my case I never would have thought that I’d find myself preferrng hook & loops!!! Thanks to this conversation, I’m going to scope out those Precision Scale couplers that William mentioned. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen 'em long before now, but I like to keep up!
Meanwhile, William, I see that was your first post here at LSC. WELCOME !!!
William Brittain said:Their homepage. Not much of a website but you can contact, buy a catalog, etc., here: http://www.psmescale.com/
Hey guys, Saw in 1 of the posts about Precision Scale #1 couplers. Where can I buy them from? Did a Google search and nothing came up! thanks Will
A search on Walthers drew a blank for this company in G scale couplers. I included discontinued items in my search, too.
Guy using PS Couplers on USA Trains diseasel here:
http://dieseldetailer.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=hh&action=display&thread=8735
I guess you know a diesel salesman got lynched under a bridge on the G&D RR…(?) Good thing, too.
And this puppy came up in a related search but just didn’t want to download for me today:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=UR&mfg_s=psc&p=2
Should we tell the guy with the GP-9 that his rear coupler’s on upside down??? That’s gonna introduce some compatibility issues…
Anyway, if you’re looking for a good #1 scale prototypically operating coupler, I’ve been slowly converting over to Accucraft’s 1:32 couplers. (They scale out perfectly in 1:20 for a 3/4-sized coupler). I’ve been using them since summer of 2009, and I’ve been quite pleased with their performance. There are two caveats–if you leave your equipment out in the rain, stick with the Kadees. The pins on the Accucraft couplers are prone to rust, and get real hard to move if they get left out in the weather for any amount of time. (You could coat with oil, but then that tends to attract dirt and dust, which keeps the coupler from moving…) Second, you need to really watch the vegetation on your railroad with these couplers. Since they operate prototypically via cut levers on the side of the cars, plants have a nasty way of reaching out and pulling the cut lever at the most inopportune moment.
Later,
K
I wouldn’t want to hook up with a diesel anyway.
Kevin - Thanks for the info about the Accucraft couplers. I’ll stick to my hooks and loops!
To short cut the now years old search for the Precision Scale Co. LS couplers, just contact the company and ask whether they still produce them or where they might be available:
Precision Scale Co., Inc.
Iron Horse Models
2383 Meridian Rd.
Victor, MT 59875 USA
Phone: 406-642-3901
Fax: 406-642-3904
website: www.precisionscaleco.com
PSC continuously run ads in the Narrow Gauge and Shortline Gazette. Usually full color on the inside of the back page. Recent issues have featured H0n3 brass freight and passenger cars, track (made in Montana) in H0n3, H0n3+H0 dual gauge, 0n3 & 0n2, and limited edition 0n3 brass rail bus and locomotives. All beautiful stuff, but no LS.
I haven’t seen the PSC LS couplers (nor any PSC LS items) mentioned in years, but it never hurts to ask.
As to what couplers to use, everyone has their own solution. I want mine to at least look like a railroad coupler, so I use the large (“G Scale”) Kadees on my 1:20 equipment. I also use a couple of fixed uncoupling magnets at the end of my ‘yard’ areas. Perfect (delayed uncoupling) operation over many years.
I have (and use) the Kadee height gauge, and I set the uncoupling pins to the correct height. I started using H0 Kadees in the mid-1970s, so have lots of (very positive) experience with them.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
Yeah, I wouldn’t take anything away from the Kadees, Jerry. I’ve been using them about as long as you have, also like you I have the height gauge. My first Kadees were the nonmagnetics with the triangular knuckle and the straight gladhand. Question: how do you find those LS uncoupling magnets outdoors? I reckon they’d rust, wouldn’t they?
We never use the magnets…long ago we “discovered” the slot-type, long handled thin screw driver, then a few found that a long handled Philips screw driver works well too. We OPERATE every Saturday (Weather Permitting) with two fleets of 150 cars each…one is SG looking, and the other is NG. All are equipped with Kadee, body mounted #1 couplers. ALL operations work well, without any frustrations…the young people (Children) have no problems uncoupling the cars at all…it’s usually the adults that need to have it explained to them…!!
It’s nice to try to use "cut levers, but big hands and fingers often can’t get at them in a freight yard. They also are rather delicate for the outdoor operations over the long term…if you want to prevent rust on the Kadee couplers…just put a drop of Labell synthetic oil on the top of the tail, on the top of the couplers…it prevents any rust…
The magnets themselves do not rust, they are that flexible rubber material. But the metal “keeper” on the bottom will.
Greg
I have used Kadees for nearly 50 years. O first used them on HO and when I got into G that’s the first thing I started buying.
I have never tried the uncouplers because I always have my Phillips screwdriver in my pocket!
I’d like to have a sheath to carry it on my belt. I’ve punched a few holes in my jeans pockets!