Large Scale Central

U channels in concrete?

Track and Trestles
#1

I’ve found a couple of threads on crossing/embedding track in concrete, but they’re quite old. I wonder if anyone has tried creating a tall rail profile to put the “ties” deep into the concrete? I was thinking of something like this:

Obviously, the flangeways would need to be kept clear. I’m thinking the lateral bracing would be every 6" or so, soldered to the U channels.

I don’t have any track laid outdoors yet, but I was thinking of making one of these and leaving it out for the winter to see how it does.

Thoughts?

#2

Is this for crossing concrete drive/pathways? Has promise. Keep us “posted.”

#3

Yes, exactly.

#4

Since you only need a flange of depth or two, wouldn’t a shallow depression be less likely to get clogged. I see two L set with 3/16" vertical exposed between the ‘rails’. Being able to clean it out with a hose vs getting down to unjam a rock would be a plus to me. Walkways tend to be public and not all folks are observant where they step.

Just a thought.

I like what you’ve brought to the site.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#5

Thanks, John. I have zero experience with outdoor track, so the input is valuable. I was thinking of two factors. First, and most important, it pushes the bracing between the channels deeper into the concrete to lessen the risk of cracking. That’s what I imagine to be an issue with just putting concrete over the ties on code 332 rail. And second, it would take longer to fill with crap, but maybe that’s not a blessing if the crap is approximately the same size as the opening!

#6

If you’re going to solder, use silver solder. Regular solder is soft and not good for high-load applications like a walkover.

#7

The lower angle legs could face outwards, under full depth. I’ve seen rocks move in the rain and a careless step could jam in in.

You could crown it, but then the dirt would fill the flange ways.

The old expression is; Pick yer Poison.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)

#8

If it is embedded in the concrete, and it was a big enough, Deep, channel, would you need to have cross braces? Wouldnt the concrete be enough to hold the channel “Rails” in alignment if the concrete is for a driveway or sidewalk, as long as it is stable it shouldn’t move enough to cause problems. I like the U shape, and for the most part I think a hose should be enough to clean it, or you could put some rubber into the “U” when not in operation to help keep clean.

#9

Yes, the bracing would just keep it aligned while the concrete cures, but would then be irrelevant. If it’s a short section, dados in the sides of the form would probably suffice. In my case, it would just be a couple feet across a walkway.

I suppose another option is to sawcut the concrete after the fact and epoxy the channels into slots.

Keeping the ends aligned with the adjoining track is another detail to work out.

#10

Why not use a single channel, found or built to the correct track gauge, that would eliminate those narrow grooves that stuff could catch and build up in.

It being me I would consider aluminum for cost and availability. The channel would only have to be an inch deep just use some kind of J bolt anchor to

mount it firmly in the concrete pour.

The ends of the channel could be easily shaped to accept a rail connection.

Just a thought.

Rick

#11

My understanding is that aluminum in the highly alkaline environment of curing cement would do quite poorly unless coated with something.

But here’s a thought… are you running battery? Maybe no inset at all, just pure concrete, molded.

#12

Eric Reuter said:

Yes, exactly.

Perhaps I’m misunderstanding and forgive me. This is a driveway plan made with concrete for automobiles to cross over the tracks in Maine?

#13

“Walk Crossing” was one of my first projects. The build thread was on MyLargescale 14 years ago and is long gone. I still have the pics on-line and can share more details if you are interested. I used standard stainless rail, but filled the plastic ties with concrete before embedding them. I only used about half or less of the ties in the cemented area. Is used a truck with plastic wheels to clean the flngeways while the cement cured.

#14

Jon, has it held up through the seasons?

#15

Where this crossing is, is it in the shade or full sun? With track, set in concrete, expansion and contraction won’t be an issue, but with the use of the brass channels, you may have a recipe for a derailment.

#16

So, just a thought- what if water were to seep in between the channel and the concrete during winter. If you use this walkway regularly during the winter season, you might also use rock salt to melt snow and ice. The sun also melts a lot of snow, especially on a concrete surface. The resulting water could/might mess with the channel once it re-freezes. I live in Buffalo. It gets plenty cold in the winter, here. I’ve seen what the freeze/thaw cycle can do to concrete driveways and sidewalks once water gets in the cracks. I bet Maine gets just as cold.

-Kevin

#17

Eric Reuter said:

Jon, has it held up through the seasons?

Still solid. Has to be at least 10 years. I need to find the original pics to get the date.

Re freeze/thaw. Has not been a problem. I don’t use ice melter on this area.

#18

In that case, maybe I’m overthinking it. I thought 1/3 of an inch of concrete would be problematic. Sounds like it works fine, though.

#19

There is a thick concrete base under the ties. The top pour is sand mix.

EDIT to add: For the rest of the pics go to http://photo.cvsry.com and scroll down to the files beginning with “cross”. Most have two versions, one 640 pixels wide and a larger one 1280 pixels wide. The ones in lower case further down are earlier. Order is screwed up as I had not yet learned to use leading zeros in file names for proper sort. Order goes 1, 11…15, 2, 3 etc.

#20

Hi Eric. If you are track powered (I thought you were dcc) that brass lateral bracing soldered to the brass U or L or rail will short out your system.

Steve