there was an extensive thread on choke cables… you want one with stiff/solid inner wire… nylon lined is good, lube once and it’s fine… the non lined ones will rust and grab the cable. Bicycle stuff is a cable, it cannot “push” just pull, and then you have to have a spring return and it did not work well, because the spring had to overcome friction, and it was making the spring too much, etc.
That thread is somewhere. I’m real happy with pneumatics …
Greg
While I would not knock those who have success with the choke cable idea, it seems to be somewhat makeshift. And while I love makeshift solutions and am naturally a cheap SOB. I can’t see as to where the choke cable idea would be much less than the pneumatic solution. Especially when using a remote air tank as opposed to a compressor and fancy solenoids. When only talking a few turnouts, this pneumatic options seems relatively inexpensive and has very little to go wrong with it.
I’ve been using air driven switches for over 15 years. Here’s my current setup. I have a small air tank that I take out to my layout when I run. I put about 80 lbs. in it and can run for over 6 hours and still have 60 lbs. of air left over.
Here’s a close up of my switch control box. I used a weather-tight outdoor electrical box to house my air toggles and small regulator. This set up has been in place for over 8 years with no problems.
Not only do I use my air pistons to power my switches but I also use them to power my sidings. Notice the microswitch on the right hand side. These little suckers are essentially weatherproof. As the throw bar moves across, the end of the bar activates the microswitch. I rarely have to replace one (they only cost about $5) and most have been in use for over 8 years. Once and a while I have to remove one and blow out the hole where the button moves in and out because a little grit has worked its way into the recess.
Doc Watson
Just for my own curiosity why do you only power your sidings when in use. I think it’s a great idea but what is the reasoning?
Devon, us DC guys do that so we can park locomotives.
You are correct David.
Doc
Contrary to some statements;
Choke cables usually have a stainless steel cable inside the outer shell. Yes they do require lubrication, but if properly installed, and lubricated once a year (In our Ontario Canada location), work very well, but not in lengths of more than 6-8 feet.
Generally we use choke cables to prevent the need of bending over to throw a switch, or for a switch, too far from the operator, to easily reach.
Anyone contemplating full railway operations, as we practice around here, where the crew walk around with their train, can benefit from the use of inexpensive choke cables.
Choke cables are available in a variety of lengths, and can usually be found through, or at automotive retailers.
Devon, you will find that choke cables are rather INEXPENSIVE, and adaptable to so many situations. For some who enjoy mechanical challenges with bell cranks and other devices; choke cables are a great tool to “Play with”
I do not recommend bicycle cables, or any other plastic type cables for outdoor use.
Fr.Fred
David Maynard said:
Devon, us DC guys do that so we can park locomotives.
Awe I should have known that. I never did get that fancy in any of my HO or N days, but I knew that it was done that way. That’s kind of a no brainier. I guess that’s another reason why battery is better. . . no no I am kidding, don’t start a flame war. I am just poking the grizzly bear with a sharp stick.
young man, you go on poking, and we might “rooster” your reputation…
This is all good food for thought. The more I ponder it the more I think I might consider using one of these methods on at least the hard to reach switches but it might be a nice alternative for them all. One thing I am really trying to focus on with this layout is making it old guy friendly. Not that I am old or ever will get old but I have old friends who aren’t getting younger. That’s my excuse. So I the less people have to bend down and lean onto the layout the better; especially on casual running days.
Fred Mills said:
Contrary to some statements;
Choke cables usually have a stainless steel cable inside the outer shell. Yes they do require lubrication, but if properly installed, and lubricated once a year (In our Ontario Canada location), work very well, but not in lengths of more than 6-8 feet.
Generally we use choke cables to prevent the need of bending over to throw a switch, or for a switch, too far from the operator, to easily reach.
Anyone contemplating full railway operations, as we practice around here, where the crew walk around with their train, can benefit from the use of inexpensive choke cables.
Choke cables are available in a variety of lengths, and can usually be found through, or at automotive retailers.
Devon, you will find that choke cables are rather INEXPENSIVE, and adaptable to so many situations. For some who enjoy mechanical challenges with bell cranks and other devices; choke cables are a great tool to “Play with”
I do not recommend bicycle cables, or any other plastic type cables for outdoor use.
Fr.Fred
In the RC airplane stores, they have push-rods in plastic sleeves. I think they go by the name “goldenrod”. They work like choke cables and they work well indoors. I would not recommend them for outdoor use, since the plastic sleeve tends to get brittle after prolonged exposure to UV light.
Devon,
Them’s all might fancy solutions, but you can go a lot cheaper, all you need is a spring to hold it away from you and a string (fishing line) to pull it back. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)Eyes to route and 2 keeper boards to hold the twig, 1 for each setting. A simple tie bar extension for the micro…
No charge.
John
In the RC airplane stores, they have push-rods in plastic sleeves. I think they go by the name “goldenrod”. They work like choke cables and they work well indoors. I would not recommend them for outdoor use, since the plastic sleeve tends to get brittle after prolonged exposure to UV light.
I’ve left a golden rod sleeve and rod outside for three years now. It’s still flexible. I was going to use the stuff but changed my mind.
Terry, ok then. I guess maybe they improved the stuff, or I was mis-informed about its…suitability
John Caughey said:
Devon,
Them’s all might fancy solutions, but you can go a lot cheaper, all you need is a spring to hold it away from you and a string (fishing line) to pull it back. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)Eyes to route and 2 keeper boards to hold the twig, 1 for each setting. A simple tie bar extension for the micro…
No charge.
John
Ok I did say I was cheap. . . so I guess I deserved this.
Terry,
would be interested know if the plastic was exposed or buried. If buried then UV would not be an issue.
