Large Scale Central

Train Engineer again!

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

OK, I already have one TE receiver recently gone to God. It was working with no problem, stored for two days and then simply failed to accept inputs (power ‘on’ light illuminated but no green ‘code set’ light when transmitter activated). Transmitter checked on another receiver and worked perfectly.

This morning I had a short circuit that blew the inline low amperage blow glass fuse in the track power lead, but the car-type 10 amp fuse did not blow (too slow). Now have constant 18 - 19 volts to the rails with no control. I am ware of reverse polarity issues with multiple receivers, but this was a simple short circuit with only one receiver connected. I fail to see how other manufacturers are able to provide internal short circuit protection (not relying on slow blow external fuses) and yet this manufacturer fails to do so. I am coming to the realisation that the TE is not for me!!! Two receivers now gone to God and two left in reserve.

#2

Sounds like a job for Mr Mal Abel to sort out. AristoCraft possess an unparalleled reputation for honouring warranty work.

#3

Tony,
after the first failure several weeks ago, to his credit, Lewis, via personal email, did ofer to make good any expenses in returning the defective receiver for repairs. I was tempted to return the unit, but was concerned that one department may not know what was offered and charge me for repairs. I now have two defective units. The second of cause was my fault with the induced short circuit. However, as the units have no short circuit protection then they are of little value to me. A simple derail at a powered frog will cause a short circuit. This means that basically any short will destroy a receiver. This is a ridiculous state of affairs. Others are able to provide short circuit protection. The TE basically stands totally unprotected as blow fuses do not operate quickly enough to save the internals. Even my old Tri-ang power units from fifty years ago, had transistorised short circuit protection!!!

#4

There sure is no substitute for a good old power transistor with suitable rated diode protection.
I have found Polyswitches perfectly adequate for overall protection.

#5

Tony,
I may have jumped the gun criticising the TE receiver. After replacing the blown inline glass tube fuse, I checked the voltage at the output terminals and the test track section. Voltage was 19.8 volts with no control. I then took a spare receiver and checked the output terminals with no load (terminals not connected to track). Output on the good receiver was also full voltage at the output terminals. Thinking this could not be so, I connected the ‘faulty’ receiver to the railroad and sure enough it worked just fine. With output disconnected from the rails (no load condition) and receiver set to no output, the receiver still indicated full voltage. With output leads connected to the rails, output was zero measured at the rails. This must be an anomaly with the TE receivers, indicating output at the terminals when no load connected.

#6

That be how they work. Sometimes the clamping lets actual current out as well.

#7

Yea, to see the output vary with throttle, you need to put some kind of load on it. I have an auto tail light bulb.

#8

One or two folks I know Stateside, that operate only using batteries, have replaced their car-type 10A fuse with a similar but 5A rated fuse without any detrimental operating effects. I have also done the same: my operations are simple, track power but no use of smoke units or ancilliary items just power to locos.

#9

If you want a fun problem, I’ve got a TE that after a short time running under any load will only work in a single direction. Hit the direction switch and it clicks, but the train will no longer move. Try again, and BAM, it works. Not sure why, it even does it inside directly under an A/C vent so I suspect it isn’t heat-related…

#10

Sounds like a bad or sticky relay. When you say you try again, does the train reverse, or continue in the original direction? If the answer is ‘continues in original direction’ that might indicate a bad solder joint (open circuit) on the relay. If it reverses, I’m stumped :slight_smile: