Large Scale Central

Track: Your biggest error?

Track and Trestles
#1

I started this - I’ll lead off with the biggest error I have made in laying track.

Simple lesson learned: Plan on WALKING ON THE TRACK in choosing roadbed if you have a combined layout and garden. That’s right, checking sprinklers, trimming, weeding, rechecking for the 10th time an electrical problem, and removal of debris OFF the track that was originally pushed aside. IF the gardening hobby dominates family interest (you may only have the train part) others may be doing the weeding, trimming, etc. at less delicate consideration for the track – translation: They will walk on it.

Simple lesson #2: For track that is ground based, ensure it can be stepped on supported with a solid roadbed. NO, the sand ‘n gravel-based supporting roadbed only settles and after a step or two there are dips. Our 400’ layout and garden is just that- it’s a garden with a train. The track now is on a concrete roadbed – bricks spaced along the track configuration both straight and curved radius and then covered and smoothed out with 1" of concrete. After leveling the concrete, the track sections are then pushed into the cement – the hollow ties will act as a holding source. NOTE: Lift the track after 15 min. so it does not adhere to the concrete.

What’s your biggest lesson?
Wendell

#2

My biggest error was trying to get the track to pass through a gap in an existing rock wall. To do that I had an S curve. Now when running narrow gauge equipment, this worked out just fine, in fact it was neat watching the trains snake through the wall. When I started running larger “mainline” equipment, that S curve became a real “issue”. So to solve the problem, I built a bridge over the rock wall, and raised the whole railroad almost 2 inches.

#3

I have to admit I got lucky with my first adventure. Although I thought it was interesting when you mention the sand and gravel method assuming you mean the stone dust (crusher fines). I found this to be the best method in my area. I can step on my track with no problems, with proper walls etc… the ballast stays where It should be. Just freshen it up every spring and Im set.

Now errors in my layout:

I got US style ties thinking I live in the US so that’s what I bought. What I didn’t realize was US style also meant standard Gauge. I wish I hand laid my track instead. That will be redone this spring.

At first I thought I should have built a bigger layout in the yard but after a few years I realized I had made the right decision in keeping it small. I found I have more time running trains and spend less on the upkeep.

My biggest mistake was not switching over to live steam sooner.

#4

Underestimating grades, too-tight curves, not having enough room for sidings, and access to the parts of the railroad where switching takes place.

#5

Like Bob, grades and curvature. I have re-aligned and re-graded the area I call Coal Dump Curve at least three times to make it work better.

#6

For me it was grades and too tight curves. Last year I went around and increased most of the curves sections, the 5’ diameter went to 8’ and the 8’ to 10’ . My biggest regret is building a concrete tunnel around a 5’ diameter horse shoe curve.

Another part of the original layout had a steep climb up a mountain into a “J” shaped tunel with a 4’ diameter curve track. It was OK with small shorter equipment but not OK when my interestes expanded to more modern rolling stock. Luckily I was able to put in a bypass and now it is rare that a train ventures up that mountain.

#7

today i am ballasting a section of track where todd and bob described my issue - too tight, too steep. the other thing, was an area where i underestimated water runoff and ended up with a giant holding pond that we had to dig and install a drain.

#8

For thinking 8’ n 10’D sounded so big… but when short cars overhang so bad… 10’D became the smallest D, the 8s were delegated to spur duty and de-curved to pert near straight.

When I started all I knew was track power.

Were I starting fresh I’d go; Code 250, Aluminum, flex. Battery power.

Instead I’m using SS sectional and trying to make it realistic.

John

#9

Building a 12’ long double track tunnel out of cinder block and concrete. Then discovering you have to move it. Never again.

#10

Buying brass 332 US style ties when I planned on running battery power from the get go. I should have purchased 250 aluminum.

Also building on a gravel base. It didn’t work for me so I tore it up and built on a ladder base.

Terry

#11

My biggest mistakes that required minor modifications to the trackwork were:

If you have a turnout that for example diverges to the right, don’t put a left hand curve immediately after it, even if using 10’ diameter curves.

If you run heavyweights, as the engine passes the turnout, going straight, and finally diverges off to the left after leaving the turnout, it pushes its rear coupler to the right and this then tries to make the heavyweight take the diverging path of the turnout leading to continual derailments.

The cure was to put a 6" straight between the turnout and left curve and to also add a 6" straight along the diverging path. Now the couplers are still moving straight ahead until the heavyweight truck passes the diverging rails so the trucks are not forced outward from the pressure of the couplers.

The other mistake was back-to-back 8-foot diameter curves right after the 30-degree crossing. The s-curve combined with the crossing was continually leaving cars uncoupled in the crossing leading to many “ouches.”

The cure was to take one of the 8-foot diameter curves and cut in in half with a 2-foot straight between them to get the proper spacing back. The uncoupling problem is no more and there are no more ouches.

#12

Todd and Linda Brody’s superb layout is in the previous issue of Garden Railways magazine. His continual modifications and research in the hobby is appreciated.
Wendell

#13

My curves are OK–15’ and 20’ Diameters. I like my 3/8’ minus crushed rock roadbed. I have marginal grades: 1/2% (if that). And as few switches on the mains as possible. I’m happy with it.

My biggest prollem is I used LGB brass sliders as track joiners. For expansion and contraction.

Well, the sections expand too much and come out of the joiners in a few places. I would like to clamp the track and use expansion sections where needed. (Usually my long straight runs.)

#14

…my biggest mistake was using track power, then attempting the use of the forrunner of DCC, before going Battery R/C…oh…I forgot…at the start, there was no good R/C Battery available…so I used what was available…

…Then R/C Battery became available…yes, we did start with joysticks, and Futaba type transmitters…but we soon learned that the simple handheld throttles were better for operations…and have never looked back…

#15

I have trodden a similar route to the Padre although my conversion to battery was far more recent. I don’t consider it a mistake and that applies to anything I have done and had to change on my railroad. Strictly speaking I view it as part of the hobbies learning curve.

#16

…very true, Alan…it is all a learning curve. Just like your railroad. If you ever expect to "finish it; you have lost the point…it should grow with you, and changes made as you “Learn”…your life doesn’t end until death…your hobby should grow with you, and should never end.

#17

Can you put in a ‘good word’ for me Padre? 'Cos I wanna take my trains with me.

#18

My biggest mistake? Marrying Susan

#19

Getting married can be the biggest mistake in anyone’s life…or the best move, if the man and woman are truly in love and both are willing to give 150% IN THE PARTNERSHIP…

#20

Tom, I am sorry to read that. Getting married is one of the few mistakes I haven’t made.