Large Scale Central

Track spacing

Track and Trestles
#1

I am designing my rail track plan and would like recommendations on the spacing distance between straight and curved runs of track. Also what is the recomended spacing between tracks in a rail yard. What number switch is the best to use for a yard ladder that would give the correct spacing on the rail lines. What is the recommended set back distance between structures such as rail stations, freight stations, etc. and the rail line. I am modeling narrow gauge in 1:20 scale. I will have both freight and passenger operations. All my engines will be steam with one small diesel shifter. My rail line time frame will be the early 1900’s. Is there a chart somewhere on the site that has this type of information?

Thanks for any help.

Big John

#2

#3

Very interesting drawing Brian. Do you suppose you could find a higher resolution version that could actually be read by us blind old farts?

Jon

#4

Unfortunately that pic is the original source. I tried to clean it up a bit and added a few critical dimensions. -Brian

#5

Thanks for the drawing. I printed it out and could make out most of the dimensions. I still would like recommendations on distance between track on straight, curve and rail yards. Is a #4 switch OK to use for the yard ladder or should I go to #6? I would like to have at least four tracks in the yard and my available yard space is three feet wide. I would like to include at least two slip switches in the yard.

Big John

#6

A lot of the answers to the remaining questions are personal choice. For instance, on straight track 2 trains would be able to pass with 6" centers…but barely. 7" would be a lot better. Yard spacing depends on how much fiddling goes on there. You need at least the 6" plus whatever it takes to get your paws around a car or locomotive without knocking everything else off the tracks…:frowning: Distance on curves depends on three major factors…the diameter of the curve, the length of your two longest cars and the swing of your largest locomotive. On tighter curves some cars and locomotives have some really serious overhang. The easiest way to figure that out is to make a mockup of the curves you want and run the two cars past each other. If they clear, then you are ok. As an example, if you are running a shay with short logging cars you could probably get by with 7" between centers on 8’ diameter track. If, on the other hand you are running Accucraft’s new passenger cars and a K27 you would need to plan on 12-15 foot diameter curves and around 9" center to center. In summing this up, the real answer is, if they don’t bang into each other you have it correct…:slight_smile:

#7

John Spehar said:
Thanks for the drawing. I printed it out and could make out most of the dimensions. I still would like recommendations on distance between track on straight, curve and rail yards. Is a #4 switch OK to use for the yard ladder or should I go to #6? I would like to have at least four tracks in the yard and my available yard space is three feet wide. I would like to include at least two slip switches in the yard. Big John

I think the #4s will give you problems with any larger passenger cars and bigger steamers. The switcher and geared steamers will go through them carefully. You did not mention what track you are using but if its 332 you might consider the Aristo wide radius switches for your yard. the match up with 8 - 10 foot diameter and are not super long the the #6s. I modified mine by grinding down the frogs a bit but other than that they have worked well for me. I don’t have a real yard but you can get quite a few tracks in a tight space. These are about 7 inch centers but I’m not running 1:20.

-Brian

#8

Currently I have three Bachman engines. A Two Truck Shay, 2-6-0 Mogul and a 4-6-0 Annie. I am in the process of converting them to battery power. I am using code 250 aluminum track. I am trying to keep all curves to an 8’ minimum radius as I have been told anything smaller would give me problems and not look to good when the trains run around. I have a set of the Bachman passenger cars, some skeleton log cars, box cars, refers, cattle cars, flats, tankers and gondolas. I got a good buy on some rolling stock from a model shop that went out of business two years ago. That’s right I have been thinking about this layout for two years and now I want to make the plunge. I never had any track to play with. I try to keep the rolling stock looking like it came from the early 1900’s. That means most of the cars will be short and I might be able to handle the #4 switches in my yard. I am afraid to use the #6 as they might use up too much space. I am ready to buy about eight switches and I don’t want to make the wrong choice. Maybe I should buy two of each and try them out just to see the trains run over them before I jump in with two feet. This is my first foray in laying down track for gauge 1 and I don’t have the feel for space requirements yet. Since I cannot get down on the ground with my bad knees I am building an elevated track bed. I saw an article on an elevated track system made by Richard Smith who lives in Oregon. Some of you probably know who he is. I am going to make the same type of framework and keep it at table top height. I might eventually get a real live steamer to run and the high elevations should make it possible for me to keep up with the engine while it is running.

Big John

#9

I used #6 in my yard.

Yes, they do take up a bit more room, but everything looks better going through them.

#10

I hope my elevated engine house with a turntable looks half as good as yours. I can see your rail yard in the background? It looks like it has five tracks. I assume those are #6 switches as you said you like how they look. How wide is the platform in the yard area? Like I said I have 3’ in width to work with. The yard itself will be 12’ long.

Big John

#11

Thanks for the effort Brian. It helps. If I squint I can make out most of the rest of it. :smiley:

Jon

#12

Hi John,

I read your information on your roster of engines and rolling stock. Most of your engines are really 1:20.3 scale so keep your minimum spacing between track sections at 7" and maybe wider in the curves. You mentioned using code 250 rail and battery power. Go to www.switchcrafters.com and look at the code 250 switches he makes for battery power. They are great looking and inexpensive. They also come in different sizes. There was a thread on this site about these switches that someone had bought.

I also noticed you mentioned a possible addition of a live steamer maybe in the future. Check with others on this site, but the people I know who have live steam us much larger radius then 8’ dia.

Good luck with your layout, please post some pictures when you get started.

Chuck

#13
John Spehar said:
I hope my elevated engine house with a turntable looks half as good as yours. I can see your rail yard in the background? It looks like it has five tracks. I assume those are #6 switches as you said you like how they look. How wide is the platform in the yard area? Like I said I have 3' in width to work with. The yard itself will be 12' long.

Big John


John,
Thanks. The yard area is 37" wide. The real problem is that on the last track, there’s just not a lot of room, but that’s always a problem in large scale. It looks like a bit of a drive to here, but you’re welcome to come over any time!

#14

I thought it was the length of the engines and rolling stock that made it difficult to run on tight curves. Why would live steam engines require larger diameter curves. For me 8’ radius is about all I think I can manage and still have room to install the layout. I plan to have a point to point layout that is about 100’ feet long with some passing sidings and branch lines running off the main. However I do want a reverse loop on each end of the main. I will normally operate as a point to point system but I want at least one continuious loop to just let the train run on the occasions when I want to sit back and watch it. When I finish up my preliminary layout sketch I will post it and see what everyone thinks. I plan to make the support frames this winter in my cellar. They will be modular units approximately 8’ in length and 3’ to 5’ wide so with a little help I can handle them to take to the back yard. I will install as much track as possible while they are still inside. After they are set up in the back yard I can finish the track work and the landscaping. Adding the structures will be done so they can be easily removed to take inside for repairs and protection from severe weather. I plan the construction to be similar to the block system that HO people use when everyone works on a block and then they bring them to a show and put them togerther. I won’t have any 6’ high mountains or tracks that are evevated to cross over each other as that would be to difficult for me to handle. But I can manage a few bridges, tunnels and rock outcrops that will hide the train from view as it moves down the line. I hope to be able to run at least four trains at a time with each engineer keeping on the lookout for the other guy. Just like in the real world.

Big John

#15

First question…to be sure we understand each other and all terminology is correct. Are your minimum curves going to be 8’ radius or 8’ diameter. Generally in Large Scale we use diameter to discuss curves. 8’ diameter won’t hack it for live steam. 8’ radius will in some cases. Now, to answer your question about why a sparky loco will make the curves and a live steam won’t. Sparkys (electric) are made with tolerances that allow the wheels to move side to side. The drive rods and motion are rather sloppy to allow for this flexibility. Most sparky steam outline locomotives are driven by gear boxes between the frame and the motion just goes along for the ride. On a live steam locomotive the motion is working. It turns the wheels and tolerances are fine machined. There is little side to side motion of the wheels. Also live steam locomotives are less likely to have blind drivers in the middle which help on tight curves. One is a nice looking toy and the other is a finely crafted working miniature…though still a toy…:expressionless:

#16

You should be OK if your live steamer is a Mamod 0-4-0 or something like that.
jb

#17

Somehow I just can’t picture a Mamod pulling a string of 1:20.3 box cars…:confused:

#18

I was taught to always talk radius when I am refering to curves. I plan to use 8’ radius which would be 16’ diameter curves. Thanks for clearing up the difference between electric and live steam engine operating parameters. I would probably be looking at a small steamer for my first excursion. Something like an 0-4-0 Ruby. But that is in the future. First I need to lay some track and get my existing engines running.

I decided to go with 7" spacing between the tracks on the straight sections and 8" on the curve sections. I just ordered a pair of #4 and $6 switches so I can put my hands on them and see the differences. I figure I can use both of them no matter which size I standardize on. I want to make a double track siding with both and compare the differences with the trains running through them.

Big John

#19

That’s the difficulty with going from the dinky scales to large scale. We speak a different language. I have no idea why someone back in the dark ages of the beginning of large scale in the US decided to use diameter instead of radius…but they did and the majority of manufacturers refer to diameter when referring to track. I usually ask people new to large scale so I know we are on the right page. Your 8’ radius track will handle most any sparky locomotive and most of the smaller live steam. Ruby will run on most anything provided it’s flat and well laid. But needs extensive modification to pass for a 1:20.3 locomotive. But it’s doable.

That’s a good idea with the turnouts. That way you can see up front not only the layout of the track but also the quality of the turnout. Better to chuck a couple you don’t like than have to rip up a whole layout because the turnouts give you fits.

#20

They probably wanted to give the impression their track was bigger than it really was. You know how boys are. They like to brag mine is bigger than yours. 8’ diameter sounds much better than 4’ radius. I will try to post some pictures when I receive the switches and get them mounted.

Big John