Large Scale Central

Track question

When I laid my track out here on the California desert I was told to leave 1/8-inch spacing. I thought that was a good idea but it is free floating track. Do I really need the spacing? I’m getting ready to check the level and am tempted to take the spacing out.

Maybe…

Seriously, it all depends on how long your straights are, how tight the curves, and how hot it gets.

Some people have no significant problems with small gaps and free floating track.

Long straightaways will definitely get longer. Some people have to use the expansion track available from Split Jaw or Hillman. (check their sites).

Curves usually move a bit on their own without buckling.

All you can do is try it and observe. From people I know in Arizona, where the daytime temp got to 116, they needed the expansion tracks on straightaways over about 20 feet.

Regards, Greg

And then, of course, some leave a big space for expansion, then mash down the rail clamp so nothing can possible move.

I think if I was out in the baking sun, I’d put one of those split jaw expansion joints in long straights.

The only straight in 300 feet of track is a double rail bridge and I used split jaws to tie the tracks together to keep any trains from taking a dive!
When I get finished building some cribbing this week I think I’ll work on the track and tighten things up some.

Doug: The thing to remember is the time of year you are laying track. If laying in warmer Temps you need not add expension. Actually this is the best time to lay track. If your laying in a much cooler Temp then one must take in for expansion and you can build this in as you are laying the track. My RR is totally free floating with tangents in the 70ft range and Temps in the summer running in the high 90s. So far I’ve had very little rail expeansion. Remember also that Ballast is a key factor to restrainging rail movement. Later RJD

R.J. DeBerg said:
... If laying in warmer Temps you need not add expension. Actually this is the best time to lay track...
That's great in theory, with one minor little hitch. The principle behind this is to get the rail to expand in the heat, so when you lay it, it will be at its longest. Sounds logical. I refer you to the phrase "expand in the [i]heat[/i]." That means the rail is HOT when you go to lay it down. Unless you make a daily routine of testing the stove elements by placing your hands on them, trying to lay rail that's been baking in the sun isn't exactly the most pleasurable experience. And if the rail isn't hot, then it's not expanded to where it will be when it's baking in the hot sun once its laid, so you're back to leaving gaps between the rails. May as well lay track when it's comfortable for you and just plan for expansion.

Truth is, if you’re floating your track, then expansion really won’t be that much of an issue. Curves are the best defense against sun kinks, and it sounds like you’re mostly curves anyway. The track will move as it has to to compensate for expansion, even with fairly compacted ballast. You can leave gaps in the rail joiners to help as well, though over time, that gets less and less effective as dirt and debris works its way into the joint.

Later,

K