Large Scale Central

To Clamp or to Solder -- the big question

General Discussion
#1

Our 400 foot layout is now 13 years old with soldered jumper wires connecting brass track. Over the years there is the need to resolder the jumpers – more so now that summer evenings means trains running.

The big question:
Are the Split Jaw, Hillman, and Aristo clamps less prone to dropping electrical continuity over the same installation time compared to soldering jumpers? The labor of scraping the rail, fluxing, heating the rail, and then soldering the wires, is only worth the time (and cost) IF the end result is either the same or better than using clamps.

For those who have both soldered and used rail clamps – either brand – what is your conclusion?

Many thanks,
Wendell

#2

I installed rail clamps on my desert Layout early last year and haven’t had a single problem.

When I installed mine I pulled the LGB joiners off gave the rail ENDS a little wire brushing and installed the clamps. No pain.

If PaLm Desert gOes with rail clamps be sure to work early or late. That rail gets hot after 10 A.M.!

#3

Only items using Split-Jaw clamps are the turnouts - just in case they need maintenance (highly unlikely since I build my own and try to do it right the first time around ;)) all the rest I’m using the Llagas joiners and then jumper the joint with AWG14.
To prevent “things” coming loose I drill a hole in the foot of the rail, thread the wire through, twist it back on itself, then solder. Since the hole reduces the cross section of the rail foot it heats very nicely and makes a super joint i.e. solder on the twisted wire straight through the hole and plenty left and right of the hole.

BTW since I run DCC I also subdivide the layout into sections which can be isolated. The principle behind it and the material involved you’ll find here (motto is: rather safe than sorry) . :wink: :slight_smile: Besides, since I got to troubleshoot all kinds of circuits for many, many years I tend to make life easier for myself by making it maintenance friendly.

#4

Wendell
I hard solder my rail with slip on rail joiners in 15’ to 20’ lengths then put those sections together with splitjaws or hillmans. I have had no luck with the Aristo joiners(the heavy duty ones) . My RR has been up since 2007 and no issues other than mother nature, I use one 12 gauge feed to power a 350’ loop and you know I like my MUed stuff. Yes I do have to clean track but I’m a firm believer in hard soldering the rail.

#5

Wendell,
I am an advocate of soldered jumper wires.

Soldering a set of jumper wires across a rail joint really takes no longer than installing rail clamps once you are setup and have everything at hand.

We have 80-90 degree temp swings through the year and I have had rail pull out of rail clamps, both Hillman and Split Jaw.
Don’t have that problem with jumper wires. I use regular rail joiners to align the rails and once in a while one of them will work off one rail, not a big deal (no conductivity issues) just push it back with a screwdriver.

Soldering jumper wires to rail is really simple and easy with an 80 watt iron. Just have to know and understand soldering and that is easy as well.

Hard soldering track with rail joiners into long sections works fine for conductivity but if you ever have to remove it you will probably end up sawing it into managable lengths.

Just some thoughts
Rick

#6

I’ve used Split-Jaws exclusively for nine years. Never a had problem. So convenient when you wish to lift a switch or a section of track.

#7

I still like using the screws with the aristo track. For me they seem to work the best. I have a few spots were I soldered the track and that seems to work well but once it is soldered you cant take it apart (good if you dont plan on removing track) I alos use the Arsito clamps and they have worked great for me.

#8

Like Shawn, I use the screw-on Aristo joiners with great results. One change I made was to use the larger head Phillips screw normally used for the ties in my joiners. The heads on the hex cap screws are too shallow to get a good bite. It’s been over two years since an electron has flowed through my track, but when they did I had no problems for more than 5 years of operation. I use Hillman and Split Jaw at switches and major section joints for maintenance. As the Hillmans wear out [they don’t like SS track profile] I am replacing with Split Jaw.

Perhaps I should power up the track and get out some of my track power locos that haven’t moved in a long time and give it a go.

#9

Jon-
The stainless out-n’-back street car line I have is in stainless rail. Your observation about the Hillman clamps not fitting the stainless track is accurate. Why don’t they fit? I have no idea the rationale for the clamps not having enough opening for the rail foot. I found both the brass and stainless Split Jaw clamps working OK for the year it has been running.

#10

Hillman makes, or usta make, a clamp designed for Aristo stainless track. The profile is different for the stainless, when compared to brass.

Dunno why, ask Lewis.

#11

The “philosophy” of how the joiner contacts the foot of the rail seems different between SJ (which has a wide V slot) and Hillman (where the joiner has a much narrower square slot that more closely fits the foot of the rail).

It seems to me that the Hillman more closely fits the rail and would provide more conductivity. They are more difficult to remove in my opinion, but I do not take that as a negative.

I use Aristo SS rail, and at the time I started, Hillman did not make clamps to fit it. Also, I prefer the solid SS construction of SJ rather than brass (which oxidizes) or the nickel plating (which is more expensive, but the plating on some of my Hillmans has failed over time).

Regards, Greg

#12

Wendell Hanks said:
Jon- The stainless out-n’-back street car line I have is in stainless rail. Your observation about the Hillman clamps not fitting the stainless track is accurate. Why don’t they fit? I have no idea the rationale for the clamps not having enough opening for the rail foot. I found both the brass and stainless Split Jaw clamps working OK for the year it has been running.

The reason is that the profile on the foot of the rail differs between SS and Brass. Hillman made clamps in SS, but never adapted his design to accommodate this. Jerry at Split-Jaw did… Aristo Brass…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/AC-Brass.JPG)

Aristo Stainless…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/AC-SS.jpg)

Hillman clamop on Brass…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/HRC-Brass.JPG)

Hillman Clamp on Stainless…

(http://photo.cvsry.com/HRC-SS.JPG)

EDIT: To add that I these photos were taken before Hillman made his “Stainless” clamps. I bought some and they had the exact same problem.

#13

Why would anybody put a wire on their track?

(http://www.outsidetrains.com/smile/mischief.gif)

#14

Tom Ruby said:
Why would anybody put a wire on their track?

(http://www.outsidetrains.com/smile/mischief.gif)

Because the prototype does, too. Do you need some pictures and/or stories?

#15

Another track power thread with another unnecessary jab at track power.

Greg

#16

I think they are both good. I have both and I use both. I LIKE BOTH!