Well all you need is the “gallows” and cabling with a shed to cover the hole. Unless you really wanna go over the top and rent a 3’ auger …lol
We were discussing sun/UV damage earlier, here is an example of about 4 years in the sun full time.
I just started replacing the roof and thought I would share this with you. The shingles were glued down with Silicon and had a few coats of water sealer over time. Had to use a wood chisel to scrape them off.
Edit. You can’t buy weathering like this
Well David and Rooster,
Here’s the follow up…
I committed to your recommended waterproofing recommendations and have done 2 buildings with copious amounts of watered down titebond 3. These 2 buildings have liquid nails as the original shingle adhesive and the 15 year old bungalow revealed another surprise.
I started with the bungalow, the oldest building that I have in my arsenal. In the end I was left with a bit of a sheen on the when finished with the bungalow, but it’s not too distracting.
Now the surprise. I have since learned if I have enough clamps and enough titebond glue I can flatten about anything to a strong straight piece of lumber. However at the time I had not discovered the LSC rule “never use ply”… and have some stained, varnished marine ply under the shingles. I’m at risk of becoming a fair weather railroader! But I digress…
Please note the pictures in the next group should be upside down. My phone has re-positioned all the remaining photos upright. For painting the titebond for maximal coverage, I placed the shingled area upside down to encourage flow under the shingles.
I then squashed the sponge brush into the crevices then blotted with a paper towel to remove the excess. (Turn your device over to see the drops going the correct direction. Ha!)
Photo with Excess glue removed
With some judicious blotting before the glue became too sticky, the second building’s roof has ended up with more of a Matt finish.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I’ll post my adventures with about silicone waterproofing journey on the other buildings, when the silicone spray arrives.
Rick!
I must say, even though adding shingles with silicone is a slippery gooey mess and adds a full day I’ve enjoyed the results.
Had you posted this picture first, I’d be considering putting my buildings back on the shelf, only to be brought out on clear night with a full moon, and changing to building only concrete models.
Was the shingle removal successful and the building survive? Did you replace the shingles with shingles or something more durable?
For the roof on my wayside station I used a styrene corrugated sheet painted to simulate a zinc metal roof. This was the build I referred to that had the warped roof and was the model that convinced me you can’t own too many clamps, and of the miracle called Titebond 3. This roof choice was a real time saver! (Or so I hope.)
Bill,
The building was in remarkably good condition considering what I found.
The roof decking appears to be a Masonite product about 1/2 inch thick. It took about 20 minutes with a 1" wood chisel to remove all the shingles and Silicon, but as you can see it ate through the tempered surface of the Masonite in places.
I am going back with an extruded Styrene shingle pattern sheet. I think I will try priming and painting the sheets before I install them and try a contact cement for the glue.
To get rid of that shine from the Tight Bond try some Krylon Matte clear spray, the kind for overspray of art work, it is UV resistant.
As for UV treatment I would be more concerned about the (styrene? copper colored) flashing than the cedar shingles.
Rick,
I’ve hunted for tempered Masonite in South Australia. Regular masonite is hard to find. I collected some cement board from our home build and it will be my next experiment for a sub roof. I expect it to be a real bastard to cut, but it definitely won’t warp, slough or delaminate.
I’m not overly concerned with the slight roof gloss at this time, but I’ll keep a matting agent in mind.The replacement roof looks fantastic. Who makes or sells these styrene products?
Am I assuming correctly you’ll fasten it down with silicone glue? I like the idea of a good looking easy to install roof, if I have to replace my shingles.
Hey Rooster,
Thanks for noting the copper flashing. I can now finally repay a little bit, for all the advice I received here.
The copper flashing is actually metal with a coating resistant to high heat. It’s made from a disposable roasting pan and I think Reynolds ( of Reynolds Wrap Aluminium fame) makes it. It’s quite stiff, yet malleable and easy to fold.
I found it in the local Woolworths Grocery store around the holiday season when everyone had Turkey etc. on the menu.
Bill,
The sheets I am using are produced by Precision Products but there are many other suppliers of these sheet goods, just GOOGLE embossed Styrene sheets and lots of hits will pop up.
To fasten the sheets I used a spray can contact cement that is plastic compatible and it worked very well, but had to do a lot of masking to protect the rest of the structure from the over spray.
When done I will post some pictures of it on my Shasta Pacific thread.
Guys!
I just found some tempered Masonite in the shed that had been sitting in water.
Other than a bit of rot on the bottom and some superficial mould, it looks to be in the same condition when I ripped it out of the linen closet in the old house years ago! The thin stuff had been used as shelving.
There is no significant swelling.
The tempered stuff is ⅛ thick and the other is 3/16th thick.
It’s no where near a thick as @Rick_Marty & @Devon_Sinsley have used. I’m quite tempted though to add purlins and go with the tempered pieces and use shingles (as they are on hand and I don’t yet have PVC, SINTRA, GATOR boards or Precision products.)
…and I’ve got tightbond III.
Any further advice?