Has anyone used Titebond 3 glue for outside wood projects? I need to replace a Through Truss trestle bridge made out of styrene. I want to replace it with one made out of wood. I understand that Titebond 3 glue will hold up outside in the weather. Just wondering if it holds up as advertised. Thanks
I have good luck with it in S. Az, but I also use pin nails when the wood is thick enough.
John
I have used Titebond III on many of my wood working projects as well as the building that I have made for my layout. I have not had a problem. I am also in Arizona, but we are currently going through our Monsoon season which can be very wet followed by high heat the next day. Some of the structures I have built have been outside for over 4 years. So I will go out on a limb and say that it is better than white glue and titebond II.
I have used Titebond II and III on my wood structures. I would recommend TB III for the added protection it offers. Also like John mentioned, I use a pinner to secure joints while the glue is drying.
Chris
I use III on all my outdoor structures. Plus pins, brads and other miniature fasteners (Specifically on the bridges) No prollems what so ever.
Great, thanks. I had thought the extra security of brads or pins would be a plus. I have some thin sheet metal and had thought about cutting some gussets for intersecting beams to add strength also.
I use a lot of Titebond !!! and have been very happy with it. It is a great product here on the desert.
Ron Hill said:
Has anyone used Titebond 3 glue for outside wood projects? I need to replace a Through Truss trestle bridge made out of styrene. I want to replace it with one made out of wood. I understand that Titebond 3 glue will hold up outside in the weather. Just wondering if it holds up as advertised. Thanks
Maybe I’m overly easy to amuse but I can see ad video where they use Titebond to assemble some Titebond signs, “Now that we’ve used Titebond to assemble our signs here, let’s see how it holds up the advertising.”
Doug Arnold said:
I use a lot of Titebond !!! and have been very happy with it. It is a great product here on the desert.
What you do behind closed doors is no ones business but yours , ewer’s Doug!
I have been impressed with each release of a new Titebond product. I use them on clean tight fitting wood joints that I clamp and fasten when possible. If the joint is not new or is not snug, I would go with some of the epoxy type glues that can fill and bind better. Maybe a big issue will be where in the country we are discussing. Up in the Northeast with our winters, nothing lasts forever outside. When I was in Phoenix, AZ., I was amazed at some of the older structures that survived. There, the sun and heat are the big concerns. Here, water infiltrating and freezing causes all sorts of issues. ( Coat the heck out of it with outdoor poly or paint!)
So I’m not a big fan of wood structures made to use outside up here. Stainless, would be the cat’s arse. With wood, the clock is ticking.
Titebond III works great in the Northeast and seems to take all the weather extremes we get. They key is to clamp or add weight for a half hour. It really makes a difference in the bond. Ill use the pin nailer in areas where I can clamp or use weight.
I have also used it’s “waterproof” feature as a waterproofer! Paint two coats on something that you want to keep the weather out of. I use on my pikes, wood roofs as a sealant under the shingles, and on all edges of plywood before painting. Hasn’t failed yet.
If you go to the Titebond website and read up on the difference between type II and III you would understand the BIG difference between the two. To be designated as a waterproof glue, it has to pass some ridiculous testing. Including boiling for hours of the glued joint without failing, and if that wasn’t enough it has to do the boil test several times, and still not fail.
Tight bond III some pin nails and yer good to go. Also when you glue the joints and you get excess pushed out the joint sides, have a wet towel on hand wipe off extra while it’s wet and it wont show if you stain the wood in that area…
Mark Hadler said:
You might try a search for a term such as “titebond II vs III”.
My understanding is that T II is water resistant and T III is water proof. I know TII taste like regular glue but TIII does not (don’t ask me how I know, bad habit). I used TII for my ladder but it is also stapled. Now I have no Idea if it will last but Chuck, my mentor when it comes to ladder, used TII with great success. I used TIII exclusively when doing wood projects for my boat. The biggest test was a lamented tiller extension. It was constantly exposed to soaking wetness. Between the spar varnish and the TIII in never de-laminated in 15 years of use. I think when I go to building outdoor wood things for my layout I will use TIII. Just my 2 cents.
I got some titebond III on my sweatshirt…new sweatshirt…that stuff doesnt come off…probably 20 washings.hot water, cold water oh and laundry soap. IIIt is GOOD stuff!
I use T3 for my outdoor projects, too. And Eric is right, it doesn’t come out of clothing.
For that matter, I haven’t had a failure outdoors of reinforced T2.
What I want to do is glue a redwood bridge together to use on the layout. After building the bridge, would I need to paint the bridge (say a silver) to cover the wood and glue? I have been using pin nails where possible.
Only paint it if you want it painted. Certainly the paint would protect both wood and glue from the elements but it probably isnt necessary. My covered bridges use titebond III all over, the siding is cedar, it is thin, and it is exposed to the weather. It stays put fine.
I had an outside bridge for 16 years and it has done just fine.
It was originally done with Titebond II and only a couple parts loosened up with the Titebond II and I refastened them with Titebond III.
I also use Titebond III in my woodworking whether it is outdoors or in.