In this part of the planet, Spring is quickly approaching. For those of us that have and use “ladder track” and have some frost heave, it is time to walk down the track. My support post, where I have ladder track, are driven 18 inches in the ground. Yeap, I thought it was deep enough. The best I can come up with is this theory. I think the ballast under the ladder holds water, expands with ice and lifts the whole structure. When the ground is just right, like now, you can push it all back down level. This morning was the day around here. Leveled right out, minimal effort .
Same with me here Ric. Have to push it back down, just usually by the waterfall, guess it’s wetter there and expands more.
Me too. But it’s real easy to get it back where it belongs.
6yrs with the ladder system outside and still learning!
Ric check your in box, walk the track?? I never have needed to.
Hmm, I checked my ladder last night and have no heaving. I drove my posts anywhere from 18" to 24" (as much as I could until I hit rock). Then I back filled around the posts. SO theoritically, my posts are anywhere from 4’ to 5’ deep.
I have a theory that I wonder if it applies here. What is the diameter of your posts, Ric?
I have never put posts of any type in the ground…I just let any “Legs” float on the surface, either in deck blocks or on patio stones, to spread the weight. We usually get at least 2-4 feet of frost each Winter, but everything floats and shows no sign of heaving…and this has been going on since the late 80’s…what am I doing wrong…I wonder…?
Most of our “Legs” are made from 4x4 pressure treated wood. We do dip the cut ends into “Pentox”, or other wood preservatives, especially the end that sits on a patio stone. The patio stones are never made level. by having them off level, the water runs off and the leg, or post doesn’t sit in a pool of water…We have never had a leg rot out in all these years…again; I wonder what in hell I’m doing wrong…please tell me, so I can be normal like the rest of you guys…!!
All of our track is on pressure treated 2x lumber. when on the ground, we try to backfill under it with crushed stone, for good drainage. Before backfilling, we prop it up to the desired grade, with old bricks, stones, or dead bodies if we need to…no stakes or legs are used. Due to the well structured continuous roadbed, if anything heaves, it heaves together, but settles back down on its own, causing no problems at all.
We have had great success fastening the track to the roadbed, using 1 1/2" penny nails inserted through holes on the ends of the plastic ties, rather than in the centre. We do NOt drive them all the way, leaving enough head showing, for easy removal. The nails rust and hardly show.
There are views of our construction methods on the OVGRS web page, which can be found at: www.ovgrs.org.
Others seem to have good fortune, using other methods, and seem to be happy…whatever works for you…
The only thing we seem to be able to boast about, is full operations, with almost no derailments, or coupler separation (Kadee #1 scale), except from operator error…so we have relatively FRUSTRATION PROOF operations…and thus…more fun and enjoyment.
Ladders are for climbing. I just float mine, I have never had issues. Just add balast to freshen things up. Cant do that until are nights stay above freezing. Still in the 20’s at night… I did manage to clean some of the layout out and plant a few more spruces. Even had the sparky out for the first time since fall.
hey fred, perfect time for you to chime in, i was going to put my frame directly on the blocks, but you pointed out the 4x4s, i do need to do that in case i need to shim up or down, my question is how far apart are the 2x4s that hold up the planking.
Thanks for the info.
tom huisenga
Tom;
The distance between the 2x4’s depends on a lot of things, One thing you have to understand, is that a span of over 4 feet can lead to the “Deck” sagging over time. If we go over 4 feet, we usually create a girder under the deck, using 2x4’s on edge.
If you are talking about the basic one track roadbed, using either a 2x6, or 2x8 plank, then if it is above ground, I would use a 2x4 “Girder” between posts, on anything more than a 4 foot span. If the roadbed is close to the ground, and you are planning on backfilling; don’t use posts at all, just prop the roadbed up with anything you want to get rid of, in order to maintain your level, then backfill
One VERY IMPORTANT thing to remember, is that the “Plates” joining the sections of 2x roadbed, should be of the same material as the roadbed, and at least 18" long, attached with at least 8 deck screws…use quality deck screws of at least 2 1/2" length. I use 3’…clamp each joint, before screwing, and it is wise to drill pilot holes with a thin drill bit.
You can NEVER have too many 6’ C clamps…I think at last count I have around 12 of them. Most of the time, when building roadbed, we have quite a few lengths clamped together, allowing adjustment to the roadbed, before we even start screwing it together. Clamps also act as that second set of hands, if you are working alone, or adjusting the levels while attaching legs. I also have several C clamps that are a bit larger than 6"…they come in handy too. Clamping each joint also prevents warping…along with the plates…always use your planks with the cup of the grain facing down
Again, I suggest viewing our web page at: www.ovgrs.org there are some pictures there of some of our projects, that may help explain.
I just float mine to, with stone dust never had a problem in 5 years. Regards, Ron
AT ALL TIMES…decide for yourself which method you care to use…I for one, only offer you the knowledge of what works for us here in Ottawa…if anyone thinks their method is better…GREAT…use your method and, have fun.
One thing I often find is that people new to the hobby seeking advice want the “best” answer, often interpreting this a the “only” answer.
There’s many ways that work, and different things work for different people.
But, one rule for sure, don’t adopt an unsuccessful method.
In selecting from several “successful” methods, I look to see if I can find out what things make that method successful.
For example, I run track power. Brass track tarnishes overnight, and after 2 days, I need fine sandpaper. I know a guy on the East coast that runs brass track and basically never cleans it.
So depending on who you listen to, the first take is that either brass track is no problem, or it’s completely high maintenance!
So, I look deeper for why the difference, and like this discussion, construction techniques and environment have a lot to do with it.
So, very few “right for everyone and every place” answers in my book.
Greg