Hello all,
I am looking for feedback on this product I am thinking of further developing and bringing to Market.
Please watch the Video and let me know your thoughts, and Ideas.
Thank you,
Nico Corbo
Nico, It looks great, saw it on facebook too. It’s awesome to see someone, especially someone I know developing products for largescale. I like the look of it. I have two concerns, the first is what would be the final material? I only ask due to being in the weather 24/7 and how it would last. The second is minor especially after watching the video. I usually stagger my joints so the extra material would be useless, but I like the fact that you can separate them it’s is a serious plus.
I would be in the market for them. i think it’s an awesome idea and i hope you can move forward with it.
On a side note, I’d pay for a few and install them to give you an honest perspective. It goes from -20 to 100 here.
Best of luck my friend
Terry
I’d be interested. I’ll even beta test them for you. Let me know what your cost is. I use battery power, so conductivity is not an issue.
I really like the feature where it would keep the rails in gauge. I have a few spots where that product could be very helpful.
Is the idea to “add in” the “missing tie” where sectional track connects?
Greg
Nico,
Congratulations on a very unique and creative design. The only two comments I would have:
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Change either the nut (my choice) or the screw to a brass material. Reason, one needs to be softer than the other. Stainless steel on stainless steel fasteners tend to gall and become inoperative, especially where eccentric forces are applied on the screw. The design appears to have some similarity to the ‘Track Conductor’ product sold by Al Kramer (aka Ana Kramer on eBay), which my club uses extensively. The biggest issue we have with them is the galling of the stainless steel screws when the head of the screw contacts and tightens against the base of the rail. I rehabbed a bunch of them and replaced the stainless screws with both brass and plain steel screws, both of which have not failed. I have not been able to convince some of the founders that this is better than replacing conductors when they become inoperable.
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For the insulated side of your clamp, make a similar piece to the conductor portion of the clamp in ABS, but include a ‘blade’ that will be in between the ends of the rails so that contact is impossible. And I would not be bashful on the thickness of this blade.
My tuppence worth.
My only concern is having nuts on the bottom. I do not like dealing with the Aristo and USA trains small screws on their joiners, and I wonder about lifting the track to install nots on the bottom of the clamps where track is already in place.
Nico,
That’s impressive! I’m amazed at how you have addressed gauge, conductivity between rails being joined and how to attach wire leads.
How about a molded 90 degree piece of non conductive material (plastic) to go between rails for insulation when wanting to isolate tracks?
Thinking of the aesthetic looks of the installed products, is there a possibility for the fasteners to be placed between the rail and a more traditional look of the end of the tie? This has always been my visual complaint of San Val and even Hillman and Split Jaws. You can sure see them. Hard to hide in ballast.
Just thoughts, THANKS for pursuing this.
That is a good looking product. I like that it can be separated also that it is easy to add a jumper wire to it.
The only problem I foresee is with fluctuations between hot and cold temps and the resulting expansion contraction that the plastic side of the clamp will allow slippage. I use both split jaw and hill man on my RR and have found that no matter how much I tighten the solid hill man clamps I still have gaps that results. If brass torqued on brass slips will bras track slip easier when it is mated to plastic?
Just a thought but otherwise yours is a good looking system.
Greasing / lubing the threads will elmininate galling… keep it all stainless.
LGB grease is not the same as the NoALox anticorrosion paste by Ideal, but both will work, and I have tested both on SS SJ clamps for 10 years.
LGB grease is lithium grease with graphite in it.
NoAlox is a proprietary paste with antioxidant components originally designed to combat corrosion in home wiring made of aluminum.
Also, Never-Sieze compounds are extremely high temp lithium greases with nickel or copper particles, design to stop calling and siezing
All 3 will work fine.
The extra hole for connecting power should have something stonger than a self tapping screw in plastic.
Now to the issue of the nuts on the back. I don’t like the idea if I have to get my fingers underneath, because that means moving ballast at least. It does appear that the hex nuts are captive so if you engage the screws before pressing down with force you will be fine.
On to the screws, philips suck, get torx head screws, more resistant to damage than allen.
Greg
I am Trying to answer everyone in one response, if I have missed something please let me know.
Is the idea to “add in” the “missing tie” where sectional track connects? Greg Yes,sectional and flex, there will also be a screw hole in the tie to allow for securing at the joint.
2) For the insulated side of your clamp, make a similar piece to the conductor portion of the clamp in ABS, but include a ‘blade’ that will be in between the ends of the rails so that contact is impossible. And I would not be bashful on the thickness of this blade. I was contemplating adding a blade or just letting the end user use a piece of styrene, I could easily include two pieces.
My only concern is having nuts on the bottom. I do not like dealing with the Aristo and USA trains small screws on their joiners, and I wonder about lifting the track to install nots on the bottom of the clamps where track is already in place. The nuts on the back are pre-installed, and are a tolerance fit there is no need for anyone to get their fingers under there. The screws are M4 not the tiny screws that come with the Aristo/USA/Bachman Track.
Now to the issue of the nuts on the back. I don’t like the idea if I have to get my fingers underneath, because that means moving ballast at least. It does appear that the hex nuts are captive so if you engage the screws before pressing down with force you will be fine. I believe I addressed this above.
Thinking of the aesthetic looks of the installed products, is there a possibility for the fasteners to be placed between the rail and a more traditional look of the end of the tie? This has always been my visual complaint of San Val and even Hillman and Split Jaws. You can sure see them. Hard to hide in ballast. My first design was completely invisible as a rail clamp, but unfortunately too costly to produce. Yes, I could move the screws to the inside if I get an overwhelming response to do so.
The only problem I foresee is with fluctuations between hot and cold temps and the resulting expansion contraction that the plastic side of the clamp will allow slippage. I use both split jaw and hill man on my RR and have found that no matter how much I tighten the solid hill man clamps I still have gaps that results. If brass torqued on brass slips will bras track slip easier when it is mated to plastic? Unfortunately I think you will get slippage in this scenario, There is always Glue?
Thank you All for your comments, Please keep them coming.
Nico Corbo
Nice Idea Nico. I’m not in the market, so don’t weigh these comments to heavily.
I’m with Ric on making the ends look like a standard USA or Aristo tie and move the clamp heads to the center where they can be hidden in ballast. I also agree with Greg’s recommendation or Torx head screws. However, this issue with any style hidden in ballast is that dirt and moisture tend to fill in the recess after a year or so outside. This isn’t a huge problem, but could be addressed with some type of screw cap. Probably not worth the extra cost as for many users the caps would end up getting lost or ignored.
I have a few Nico let me test out on my old layout that have seen two winters now. They have held up very well with no issues. II can take photos if anyone is interested. Nico added a few extra things from my test ones, I doubt their will be a difference in performance (Nico)?
From an aesthetic point, can the screws be blackened? (I know a shot of spray paint would do the job)
Blackened stainless is tough.
Greg and Kevin,
Balck Zinc is an option, What are your opinions on that.
Nico
I’d definitely keep to your stainless screws… because the screws point up, you will see them no matter what, cost will be an issue as always.
Greg
Nico,
Have to agree with Greg about cost. I did spray most of my AC rail clamps (just the screw tops) to make them blend in a bit better.
Kevin