Ok,…in a future phase I’m doing a loop of track around the garden plot. the track is raised on 40" benchwork all round. Anyone got thoughts o constructing lift out briges for access? One will be for walk through only for accesss to the Yard…the otherr witlll be a limited use span for various peices of power equiipment to access the garden…
Bart -
I have three lift-outs. One outdoors and two indoors. The outdoor bridge is only removed when I need access to a storage room to move heavy items in or out. At all other times it stays in place and at about 14" high it is an easy step-over.
Indoors the bridge heights are about 40". Too low for this old and fat body to stoop under. That is why the newest one was built as a hinged and folding lift-up and the other was just recently rebuilt as the same.
You saw my “I hate when that happens” thread? Lots of good ideas in there on how to avoid disaster. From experience I;'ll offer that manual protection isn’t good enough. You lie to yourself and cheat the protection. Soon after rolling stock has gone off the edge. Some form of automatic protection is a must, especially with all your scratch built stock.
JR
Bart; I have two bridges on the IPP&W, which you should remember. Both do the job well but alas, are not very prototypical looking. They are hinged at one end, and have been serving well over a lot of years.
At this point, I’m not really concerned about form but rather function…The “Equipment Access” bridge could actually be a straight lift out section, I don’t plan on removing it but perhaps once /twice a year.
The access on the other end of the loop is another story entirely, it will be used often as that will be the access point for the yard operations. I’m trying to decide 2what would be easier…swing up or swing down. I don’t forsee a problem with an open gap, the switch that will lead to the loop on this end is protected by a switch off the arrival track that has to be thrown , and it’ll be obvious that the track is not in place…
Bart Salmons said:
[i]
Sure will be when the train is on the ground 
Ever hear of a ground man forgetting to line a switch after a move? I really like my hinge up design. Technically it’s a little harder since the hinge pivot must be at the rail top, but it works great with the Hillman bridge clamps to line up the rails at the opposite end of the hinge. I fold mine in the center (from the bottom) because I’m indoors and don’t have enough overhead for the whole bridge. Drop downs are OK too, but you need something to true the track alignment when you close the bridge. I just find the Hillman Bridge clamps do a super job of this with no brain power required. Heres some shots of the lift & fold-up curved bridge you’ve probably already seen…
I just finished a strait one at the other end of the indoor layout, but no photos yet. Jon
NIce work, Jon.
Jon…EXACTLY waht I was looking for…when you have a lift bridge I’d prefer it stick straight up like a 24" flag saying …"HAY!!! THE BRIDGE IS OPEN DUMMY!!! and since it goes up…the natural inclination is to put it back down immediately…Getting the pivot point around the railheads was what Iwas trying to achieve…Good Show Ol Boy!!!
Bart, Jon mentioned that he uses the Hillman bridge clamps at the other end, but he uses regular hinges on his hinged end. Hillman also makes a special hinge that would be worth taking a look at too.
Warren
Yes - Hillman’s hinge deals with the needed elevation of the pivot point and, IIRC, screws into the but end of the bridge and abutment. Looks a little prettier than my strap hinge / wood block idea.
Bart - It wasn’t an easy concept for me to grasp. The light-bulb went on when I drew the bridge deck and rails in Viso (a simple CAD program) where I was able to move the pivot point. I discovered the obvious… If the pivot point is at the rail top, then nothing binds as the bridge pivots upward.
JR
I like the strap hinge on block version…I gots strap hinges…and I got blocks…
Bart Salmons said:Cool, I figured you'd decide that. Your just a hardware store kind of guy :). Just be sure to keep them outside of any needed clearance. I forgot that when building my latest and the rods of my Connie bounce on the hinge if they happen to be doing the down stroke at the right time.
I like the strap hinge on block version.....I gots strap hinges...and I got blocks....
JR