Quit breathing on the kid and go to your room!
Anybody tried these guys’ 3D rivet decals: Tank car double-row rivets (1.25 inch) for tank cars built before 1920 – Archer Transfers?
Asking for a friend…
Eric
Update:
KId-zilla is handling all the toolwork, as I am at the 80% mark. After successfully mounting the bolsters, I showed him how you can find the centers by drawing from one corner to the other, tehn he tapped holes for some woodscrews…
Next came the critical will-it-work-on-our-railroad test. We had to find a transition car, as we had not yet converted this to hook and loop. AM-Critter was today’s ready locomotive, we being too lazy to bring AM-Critter in from the lanai last night!
Kid-zilla took the throttle, and the test was off (video). He put the car through its paces, backing it and pulling it over all our turnouts. Later, we added a car behind it to validate the test. All is well, and we can move on to detailing!
Kid-zilla said, “I like the drop-bottom flat car. We need to clone more!” This followed last night’s talk of container cars. It all started with an affinity for diesels…
Updates as progress merits!
Eric
P.S. I am restraining myself from forging ahead alone. This is a cool project that I am eager to see done, but CONCHOUSE’s long-ago admonition is still ringing in my ears: “It cannot be just your hobby.” Time flies. It will be just my hobby all too soon.
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Yes I’ve used the archer weld decals not the rivers but similar idea. They work great like a regular decal. I found the best is to prime, apply decal like normal, let it dry and then lightly prime over again to seal.
The Micro Mark knockoffs stuck. They don’t stick to anything.
Craig,
Thanks. These look like a cost-effective way to move the ladder of complexity without ruining the fun factor.
Eric
Granted you don’t get too many on a sheet and they are a bit pricey but dollar for dollar I’d spend my money on Archer products all day long. I’m glad the original owner found a replacement buyer. The new buyer ( now a few years) has kept the same quality and customer service as the old owner.
When Archer came out with “G Scale” rivets, I queried them and got a trial set. They are visibly round and flat, but not really rivet shaped. Maybe the 1/25th ones are better - and they’ve had a few years to improve them.
Update:
Kid-zilla had the tools while I briefly returned to the office.
My inability to make a straight cut made his job tougher. Luckily, my 'flu became sinusitis, so I had the opportunity to stay home again today and to use epoxy to fill in some gaps and move this item closer to “square.”
We are discussing the rivets (thanks @ctown2 and @PeterT ). I am leaning towards trying them. I think we have a way forward on the gun, too. I’ll post that later.
Eric
Update:
'Flu gave way to sinusitis, which made getting parts for projects or any real concentration impossible. Of course, when I was ambulatory, I had the rest of life’s duties left unattended, so those parts remain at the hardware, hobby, and automotive parts stores. On the other hand, it gave me some time to really look at the pictures to see how we approximate that m1888 gun.
“Oahu’s Narrow Guage Army Rail” in particular had pictures of these guns in use on their flats and in barbette, which allowed me to make reasonable guesses about what the detail bits were all about." I particularly drew from these…
…to get sense of function and proportion not obvious to me from the line drawing in Pacific Fortress. The key element to me was the fact the platform rotated on a nearly triangular parallelogram. The breach is largely centered on the car, while, I assume, the platform and extended part of the parallelogram serve as counterweight to the barrel. Pease see the MIK-worthy diagram below:
We intend for Battery B, US Light Artillery, currently in service on No’u’ea to provide gunners. This means the equipment should look right next to PLAYMOBIL artillerymen. @Rooster had sent us some thick plastic to use for AM-Criter, and I think that would be the material of choice for the platform and mount. Styrene tubing is then an obvious solution for the Barrell, breach, and recoil chambers. Styrene then becomes likely source for the breachlock and non-structural details.
Alas, this project will likely come to a standstill for a bit as we attend to some family summer fun! But the plan is there!
Updates as progress merits,
Eric
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Rereading this thread had put an idea in my head. Many years ago I started to model a cannon. I was going to add a carriage and wheels, but this thread has given me a new direction! Now I need a drop deck rail car.
You guys on this forum have modeling skills way above my capabilities. Eric, what is the rate to borrow Kid-zilla? Oh, never mind it doesn’t work that way. The Kid has the talent!
Update:
We are going to try the rivet decals from Archer. They are on order. Busy family and personal schedules have put other progress on hold…
Thanks, too, for compliments to my partner. I always pass the along !
Eric