Large Scale Central

The Spiker Challenge

Track and Trestles
#1

Over in EBT Robertsdale Layout Build Log, Randy has been discussing his procedure for handlaying track. I suggested the spiker as a great tool.

He asked me to run a test. He sent some of the PE he is using and a few spikes and asked me to try it out. I added a piece of rail for the test.

It turns out I didn’t need the spikes - for some reason, I already have a bag!

Anyway, I put a small board at the bottom, since these spikes are a bit longer than the tie is deep.

The Spiker is only supposed to use 3/8" spikes, so the first test is to see if the Spiker can even hold these…

The magnets hold them in place, but they’re a bit long.

No problem…

I just push on the ends and they slide right up…

Next it’s time to bang these in place…

Holy Moly - that PE is HARD. I should have used a BIG hammer to get these in place, but they finally go in. Wow, that PE really holds them in place.

Even though they DO go in at an angle, they still stick out the back.

So, the Spiker does work, but pounding through that IS tough.

#2

So what size hammer did you use and would a larger one hurt the spiker ?

#3

OK rookie question here (or maybe not). So do you set the rail on the tie and then the spiker on the rail and then hit the driver part of the spiker with a hammer? If so how do does the rail not move all over while your doing this. Or do you clamp the rail and tie together before hammer the spikes in? Also I know Randy was mentioning pre-drilling, this would seem tough to do since it is not straight in.

#4

I tried to use that on Oak one time, just to see if it worked. Took some pounding to get them in. I usually use a tack hammer, but on that I used to claw hammer. Didn’t hurt the spiker any, but convinced me to use a softer wood…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#5

The spiker rests on the tie beside the rail, the spikes rest in slots on the spiker held in place by magnets. One good tap gets the spike set. Since I use the 1/2" spikes I usually set the spiker at an angle with the top of it leaning away from the rail. Spikes goes in at 2 different angles.

#6

The rail will move. At least until you have enough spikes to hold it in place. Typically, I just lightly tap the spikes in a little on one side of the rail, than whack in two on the other side. But, I’m going into cedar or redwood. One hit with my little tack hammer and they are IN. Clamping might work as well.

If you were going to pre-drill, you would sure want to pre-drill at the angle that the spiker uses.

#7

I’ve been routinely using the 1/2 inch spikes since I started using the Spiker. No problem. Redwood or cedar, whatever is in the scrap bin.

#8

It looks like it may have deformed the base of the rail as well?

#9

Then you know darn well the spikes will hold the rail. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#10

Well done Bruce! You have accepted the challenge and driven the truth home! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

I’m a little surprised they went in. Thanks so much for trying this. Questions:

Is Craig right? Did the spikes deform the rail?

Looks like one of my spikes and one of yours in the picture, right?

Did the tie deform around the spikes? In the one photo of the bottom looks like it might be bulging a bit.

Do you foresee long term damage to the Spiker from hitting it that hard? Hammer size?

(edit for last question) I only see 3 spikes coming out the bottom. Am I not seeing one or did something happen to the 4th tip?

Bruce, you are the best!

As a side note, pre-drilling and spiking isn’t bad. I have the whole stock rail put down, 4 spikes per tie right now. Just waiting for the machine shop…

#11

I wondered how that thing worked, I thought it put a spike in on both sides of the rail. Seems that would be more useful if it did. Kinda like the old Kadee Spiker did years ago. I think I will keep using my old method of using needle nose pliers. Just finished this up tonight, Started it On Saturday and spend a couple hours yesterday. Added the Guard Rails tonight.

left half of crossover using #5 turnoutscrossoverend view of crossover, 24 1/2" long, 10" wide Ceder ties, code 332 Aluminum rail , 1/2" spikes

The ties are glued to 1/4" sintra (PVC board) with TightBond III glue. The ties are 1/4 x 3/8 ceder cut from Ceder fence Slats on my tablesaw. This is the first of two of these I have to build. I think it would take me a lot longer to do these using the Spiker.

Dan S.

Colorado & Rio Grande Southern

http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html

#12

Dan, I really like that all your ties aren’t exactly the same width. I seems to me that if I were to go to all the trouble of hand laying ties and track, I surely would want to model the variation in tie widths that you see on real tracks.

#13

Very nice work Dan, Is that one piece of rail all the way from each of the frog points to the ends of the switch? Classy. Aluminum rail? Is this for indoor use?

#14

So you don’t build a turnout without a base under it?

I guess you always use a set of track gauges, right?

#15

John: actually the ties are the same length, but when I glue them down they are never in a straight line and now and then I do use a short tie, if it is close to 3 3/4" length. They are also not perfectly spaced apart. That’s the one thing I hate about sectional track.

Randy: yes that is one continuous rail from the point to the end of the switch. It looks better that way and was easier to do than cutting smaller sections and then having to put Rail Jointers in to connect smaller sections. Yes I am using Switch Crafters code 332 Aluminum rail for all of my track in the Yard area. The Rail on the mainline is code 332 Steel Rail from Delton, which is no longer available. This is for outdoor use.

Ric: I have created a new method of laying track outdoors for both on the ground and on elevated sections that uses 1/4" thick PVC Board (Sintra) to have the ties glued to since I like Hand laying my own track. I don’t dig out a trench and fill it with gravel to float my track on, like most people. I cut a section of Sintra 6 feet long and 4 inches wide, then using PVC cement I glue PVC blocks 1 1/2" x 3/4 x 4" to one side of the Sintra and then I glue 1 1/2" x 1/4" x 6feet strips of sintra to the edges of the 4"wide strip. This forms a ridged frame to glue the ties too and then lay the rail on. Once the track is in place, the entire assembly is put on the ground and then earth and rocks are back filled to the edges to hold the assembly in place on the ground. Curve track is done the same way. When it comes to the elevated sections, I don’t add the PVC blocks or side pieces as they are no necessary. Once the Track is assembled on the 1/4" sintra, the assembly is screwed down to the deck of the elevated areas.

I build my track this way, so I can build large sections in the comfort of my house and then after building a number of sections, I take them outside and install them quickly and easily. After the sections are installed then ground cover and ballast is added.

I have a few photo of a couple of my Turnout assemblies built in this manor using Steel rail. And I don’t use a rail bender to bend my rail either Steel or aluminum, I bend it all by hand. As far as track gauges, Yes I do use a few, mostly ones that I have made from aluminum or Wood. I also use a pair of pliers to hand spike the 1/2" steel spikes.

Dan Stuettgen

Colorado & Rio Grande Southern

http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html