I’m interested in hearing about you all’s experience with the Micro-Mark Lathe. I’m thinking of buying one at this time. Need to turn a part for the Bachmann Climax that broke. Part of the drive system. It was a piece of plastic which is not the best grade!
Paul Austin
Paul Before you pull the string on the Micro-Mark, Do yourself a favor and look around this site. I have had these tools and the key is all the other stuff that you will need to go with it. These guys are top notch, and stand behind every thing 100%.
BTW if something breaks, or needs fixing on the Micro-Mark, they are the guys you have to go anyway, might as well start there first.
Thank you Dave, And how is the river doing these days? Now I would like to hear some experience, please. Thank you. Paul
I have both a mini mill and a mini lathe from Grizzly which are over 10 years old.
However, all the tooling and up grade kits for these machines have come from littlemachine shop dot com. Were I to purchase similar machines now, I would purchase them from the littlemachine shop folks. They specialize in tooling for these machines and have weekly internet specials along with a great website with explanations, comments and suggestions about most of their products.
And of course, buying the machine is one thing, the tooling to make it work is another thing!!!
As I have made some parts for my trains and other parts over the years, I have had thoughts that I should have bought the combination lathe/mill which would have saved me lots of time and stress being able to mill or drill a piece while it was still chucked up in the lathe.
Bob MacGregor said:
I have had thoughts that I should have bought the combination lathe/mill which would have saved me lots of time and stress being able to mill or drill a piece while it was still chucked up in the lathe.
I have one. Doesn’t work like that.
The lathe would never hold the piece secure enough for the mill.
And, the cutter of the mill doesn’t move relative to the lathe. It is the table that holds the lathe tool or working surface for the mill that does the moving. There would only be one spot on teh machine where the mill would interact with the working piece in the lathe.
Hi Todd,
I just was looking at the combo machines on line and went out into my shop and I came up with the same conclusion. So a separate mill and lathe are the best way to go.
I like very much having the variable speed on my machines. My mini lathe is a 12" Grizzly and there have been times when using a chuck or a live center in the tailstock that a 12" lathe is not long enough. I sold my 10"/36" South Bend lathe years ago when I went back on active duty with the Army. I have been kicking myself about selling it ever since!!! I had cases of tooling for it with quick release, stand and other stuff. It was a flat belt machine with the motor hanging out the rear. It was over 4,000 pounds that I shipped to the new owner.
When I bought the mini lathe I thought to myself that it was a toy, but it was a good size to do most of the work that I was into. I’m not a machinist by a long shot, but I’ve used lathes and milling machines all my life as a mechanic in both military and civilian jobs.
Having built a transfer table, a 40" turntable and about 125 modules for my G scale club, I’ve used my machines many times and they made easy work of some nasty jobs metal, plastic and wood. I just ordered some small carbide end mills having broken some, 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8.
I also do a fair amount of wood working and I just started building two 4x8 barn doors for a customer, I may be in over my head having just priced router bits for this job!!! Oh well!!!
Thank you for the info on your experiences. I will look over what they have to offer. Paul
A 3-in-1 is a compromise that comes down to space and cost.
Mine takes an areas of about 5’ x 2-1/2’ (and weighs 1,400 pounds) for a mill, lathe, and precision drill. My lathe has a swing of 17" over the bed and 7.25" over the table, and centers to 32".
For the mill, the quill has a 4" stroke and is adjustable from 4" - 13" above the table. The table is 9" x 19" and has a travel of 11" x 23". The mill and lathe have separate 1.5 hp motors.
These are about the best 3-in-1s, but service/parts from Smithy and Grizzly are better. Mine is the Tri-power with CNC and DRO.
http://shopmasterusa.com/content/15-history-3-in-1-machine-cnc
I have the Little Machine Shop Mini Lathe and the Mini Mill. Both better quality then I expected. I have spent a lot of $ on outfitting and supplying the two machines with the necessary extra tool bits and add-ons. I run a 4", 4 jaw chuck most of the time on my lathe. I also have a 5" -three jaw that will fit and turn the bigger stuff. With the DRO package on it, I can really turn to a high degree of precision. I made my die set for the corrugated panels right off the start.
On the mill I have also added a 3-UP DRO units for better precision. The Mill has done all that I have asked of it. Used it to build the frame work for the roof rolling machine.
Plenty of horsepower, Plenty of precision. BTW: you can also turn plastics and wood in/on these machines. Though these pics are all of alum. I have made numerous steel and Cast Iron pieces also. The variable speed lets you set as needed for the cuts you’re making.
Yes, I would recommend them to a friend. BUT, be forewarned, The cost of the add-ons can be substantial. Can you do quality work on the basic machine. Heck yes, You just have to watch the “want” factor versus the “Need” Factor. Do you really need the rotary table for the mill, or just want it because it’s so cool to do the things that it allows you to do (you can cut gears with it). Will it make your modeling life easier, YUP, Think about a ball bearing mount for a turntable, milled into a block of alum. And the spindle bearing to go with it. And the hangers for rollers to go along the inside track. If you can dream it, you can build it.
Edit: BTW the mill also works as a very high precision drill press!