Nicholas Savatgy said:
In place and functional, Just need to add the guard rails soon. Other wise it came out great and people paid me a lot of compliments on it at this weekends show.....Nick
Hey Nicky… Question in the background on that storage tracks, There is a passenger train there and wondering is that a MTH E-8 or what… It looks smaller in size to the pass. cars.
Oh … Yup… Nice craw under bridge… looks great. noel
LOOKS GREAT!!! I Always like to see the final project in place thatnks for the picture!
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LOOKS GREAT!!!
I have to agree, though your photos suggest two different bridges?
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… I’ve heard of just using track nails, thru a pre-drilled hole…
Nick, Instead of track nails, get some large scale spikes from Micro-Engineering. (E.g. 30-104 Medium Spikes, 3/8" long (800) $10.85) Find a drill bit that is a tight fit for the spikes (probably going to be a #55 or similar) and predrill every fourth, or every other tie for the spikes at both sides of the rail. I use a cordless Dremel tool but any small power drill will work. Then put the rail in place and spike it down with a pair of thin pliers. If you use the plastic rail, don’t spike it down too hard - you want to let it move. If you want spikes that match those big out-of-scale ones on the existing track in the first pic, there are some fatter ones around, though I’d have to look in my files to figure out where I got them. P.S. In theory, bridge ties should be twice as thick/deep as ordinary ties, so 3/8" won’t come out the bottom. Not sure from your photos what is underneath - if it is metal then you need shorter spikes! (M.E. make a 3/16".) If your ties do protrude, and you are in danger of snagging something on them, they can be cleaned off with a cutting disk in the Dremel.
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Use the track nails that will rust, as they hold better once the “'rusting”" starts
Not for this application! Rusting is great in the garden where you want the spikes to stay in the ties, but you want to let the rail and ties move with temperature. The Micro-Engineering spikes will rust if you leave them out in the rain, but it doesn’t look as if you are going to do that. As there will be no trains running on the rails you shouldn’t need glue or anything to hold them in place. Here’s the top of my trestle under construction. I spiked every other tie.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/petert/_forumfiles/Trestle-P6200028C-8.jpg)
If you are wondering about the shavings - I was planing down the wooden guards at either side of the running rails. Unfortunately, when installed with nbws (bolts) sticking up, the pilot of Rog’s K bashed them so they all had to come off!
Noel Wilson said:Nicholas Savatgy said:
In place and functional, Just need to add the guard rails soon. Other wise it came out great and people paid me a lot of compliments on it at this weekends show.....Nick
…Hey Nicky… Question in the background on that storage tracks, There is a passenger train there and wondering is that a MTH E-8 or what… It looks smaller in size to the pass. cars.
Oh … Yup… Nice craw under bridge… looks great. noel
Thanks Dan.
Pete, I will try your suggestion of using large scale spikes from Micro-Engineering. (E.g. 30-104 Medium Spikes, 3/8" long (800) $10.85)
Seems like that could work well with the plastic rail.
Thanks Nick
Interesting ideal Korm.
Nick- Great looking bridge. I’m looking forward to seeing how the guard rails work out. I built a similar bridge last season and I still haven’t figured out a good way to do the guard rails. I hope you come up with an easy solution- so I can copy it!!! Keep up the good work.
-Kevin.
COOOL, Nick finished it out all by himself??? Very cool.
Marty Cozad said:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmNPTjM742Y&feature=share&list=UUsV2nFJp7sTzsXSAbXWCbiw
COOOL, Nick finished it out all by himself??? Very cool.
