I’d like to thank Jon for the nice art work he provided me. These large decals are not easy to apply. The maker of the waterslide paper states that a smooth, slick surface is best. However, it seems the smoother the surface, the more bubbles and more likely I have problems with the decal tearing. Ralph
Looks great Ralph!
Very nice. Did you try a satin clear finish first. Thats what my decals require. Spray the area with a satin or gloss clear coat. Then once dry wet the surface. Try some dish detergent in a a bowel of water when you put the decal in the water. Once everything is dry spray a flat clear coat. All edges etc should disappear.
Nice work, Ralph. I noticed how you posted after Jon was gone to Mouseland. I guess you wanted our opinion before he saw the results. I think he’ll approve. 
Ric Golding said:Oh, I didn't even think about that. I'll have to finish the lettering so I can post another photo when he returns and give it a bump. Ralph
Nice work, Ralph. I noticed how you posted after Jon was gone to Mouseland. I guess you wanted our opinion before he saw the results. I think he'll approve. ;-)
The secret to good decals is FUTURE floor polish…dilute the future with a bit of windex then paint it on the area your’re going to apply the decal, then once applied use a paper towel to wick up any extra, then give it an over coat of the Future. as it dries the acrylic floor polish will suck the decals into into every nook and cranny and down around things like rivets…
Bart, I’ve spent a many years decaling trains and I never heard of that trick. How much do you dilute it? I guess there is no wax in it because its acrylic. Do you still need to start with a full gloss finish or can you decal over flat finish from a rattle can? When dry is the finished area over the decal glossy or flat? This sounds like an interesting techinique to try… Dave
Ralph Berg said:
I’d like to thank Jon for the nice art work he provided me. These large decals are not easy to apply. The maker of the waterslide paper states that a smooth, slick surface is best. However, it seems the smoother the surface, the more bubbles and more likely I have problems with the decal tearing. Ralph(http://www.lscdata.com/users/cabby/_forumfiles/S1030963Medium.JPG)
Jon, Hope you had a good time in Florida. The car is now numbered…but no new photo yet. I’m going to have to try Bart’s Future floor wax tip. When I sprayed the clear acrylic overcoat…it blew a small hole in one of the decals. Don’t you just hate it when something you do is supposed to preserve it…and damages it instead 
Still looks good though. Ralph
Pretty cool. Nice work Ralph. It looks like the resolution came out OK. I can send you original vector graphic art if you ever need it (re-sizes without loss).
And Mouseland was great. Now I need a vacation from my vacation 
Jon Radder said:
Pretty cool. Nice work Ralph. It looks like the resolution came out OK. I can send you original vector graphic art if you ever need it (re-sizes without loss).And Mouseland was great. Now I need a vacation from my vacation
Dave Funk said:Hehee Cause its a model airplane builder's trick!
Bart, I've spent a many years decaling trains and I never heard of that trick. How much do you dilute it? I guess there is no wax in it because its acrylic. Do you still need to start with a full gloss finish or can you decal over flat finish from a rattle can? When dry is the finished area over the decal glossy or flat? This sounds like an interesting techinique to try.... Dave
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Everything ya always wanted to know…yet didn’t know to ask!
Wow,
Who would have thought you could use Future for so many different things.
Thanks for the link, Bart.
Ralph
Bart, Thanks for the link…It looks like there will be Future in my modeling future! This looks like it will solve the silvering issues I have been having on some decal jobs. Future seems to have many uses for modelmakers and a 27 oz bottle may not last all that long! Thanks for a great tip, dave
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