Large Scale Central

Table Saw

Tools and Tips
#1

In my quest to refine my skill as a scratch builder I am looking for decent table saw to aid in my endeavors…just want an opine from anyone regarding the Craftsman Evol that Ace Hardware currently has on sale for $130. It has a 15 amp motor and 10 inch blade. I’ve also looked at the Ryobi at HD for the same price…they look almost identical.

I’m not planning to build any homes or do professional work and am looking mainly at being able to rip some occasional lumber for my railroad…I appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks,

Richard

#2

If they look identical then they probably are rebranded by the manufacturer.

I have the Ryobi from 5 years ago. It’s adequate, the stand is shaky, but otherwise I’ve not stopped it and I’m ripping and cross cutting 3" thick planks of old cedar.

Keep it dry, the main bearing got wet and now she squeals some (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif), but hey that’s life.

John

#3

I have never personally used one but have two friends who have a Rigid contractors table saw and they like them for the kind of stuff your talking about doing. I have an old craftsman 10 inch table saw and i don’t care for it at all. But I also ask a heck of a lot of it as I doo more than the average wood working.

Once you do get one, what ever one, I have two suggestions. First if it isn’t already switch it to a link belt system. I need to do this to mine, they run far smoother and when doing small cuts like scale lumber.

Next keep blades razor sharp. Either have them professionally sharpened or buy a sharpener. I have them sharpened and it costs about 1\2 of what new blade costs. I want a sharpener. This does a lot of things but mainly it saves fingers. You don’t want to shove wood through it. It should cut like butter.

#4

On other thing. If you are cutting scale lumber, make a zero-clearance insert for you saw. I guess what you should do first is see that your table saw has an insert for the blade to pass thorough. I use my Shopsmith with a 10 inch blade for big stuff, and a small Dremel table saw for the small stuff.

#5

All good suggestions. I have a Craftsman 10" from about 10 years ago. It was under $200 at the time, has a few more features than the really cheap ones and it does what I ask it to.

EDIT to add: One thing I did that helps a lot wit accuracy was spend a boat load of time getting the bade and the fence true as possible. It’s still tough to mill long planks with uniform thickness due to limitations of the fence. You can upgrade the simple fence to a much more accurate after-market fence if you want.

#6

I have a Craftsman 10 inch table saw very similar to jons. Mine was a hand me down from my dad. Its about 20+ years old now. It seems t work well, it does what I need, like Jons the fence is not perfect so it takes a little extra work getting it perfect. I added a thin piece of wood that fits over top the table saw. Then I ran the blade through it. Thats how I got my zero clearance insert for cutting small stuff. Make a D block this will help add a little more protection when cutting.

#7

Fence issues seem to be the problem of the day. That is my main complaint of mine (that and it really protests leaning the blade over to 45). The trick here is to measure the distance from blade to fence both front and back of the blade. No matter what I do tot he fence I can not get it to stay true. Now for the handy, there are all sorts of DIY Biesemeyer style fence plans out there and they are the cats meow. If I ever get off my butt and lay my saw into my big table like I want to do I will switch over to a Biesemeyer.

Oh also for small stuff the zero clearance plate is a must and an assortment of feather boards and push sticks to keep fingers out. I recommend this system http://www.woodcraft.com/product/146172/micro-jig-grrripper-basic-model-gr100.aspx it has attachments that allow you to push wood through a 1/8 cut.

#8

My Ryobi has/had a blade guard and splitter, I took it off.

Fence; I set the front edge of blade, lock it and then tap the fence to set the back edge. Trying to line up both before the lock down often lets one move.

This is my source for accessories. I swear by their Re-saw blades for band saws ;

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com

When it comes to a cutting edge, nothing beats quality.

John

#9

This tool is probably the best thing I ever bought for my table saw:

http://www.rockler.com/micro-jig-grr-ripper-advanced-3d-push-block-system-gr-200

#10

I have been using a Thin Rip Table Saw jig from Rockler for some time now. It allows you to make repetitive cuts of the same thickness. http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig along with a zero clearance insert so the pieces do not fall down into the dust collection system.

#11

Purty nifty! I may just get me one of things…

#12

Colin,

Your idea looks slightly better than Dave’s as it looks like you can get to quite a small/thin cut. Thanks for the reminder to get a zero clearance insert for my saw.

#13

Craig,

I have been able to constantly cut pieces as small as 1/16". You will get a lot of waste due to the thickness of the blade.

#14

Craig,

I also use the push block that Dave suggested. It will allow you to cut pieces down to within 1/4" of the fence and keep your fingers away from the blade. The push block is adjustable so the blade will not cut the push block. I had considered purchasing a “SawStop” table saw at one time after I nicked my finger on the blade, but I could not justify the cost. I already have a large delta that cost me quite a bit. I am satisfied with the delta. I cut and made my Kitchen Cabinets with it out of quarter sawn white oak. It was well worth the investment for me.

#15

I remember making a pile of sawdust a few years ago when I cut a bunch of cedar ties. I did it all with a pushstick and the fence. So of the ties ended up a bit thicker than others, but I remember the pile at the end of the day (both ties and sawdust). When I got to thinking about it, anything under a 1/16" should cut easy on my Mirco-mark saw, which needs a new fence set up as that fence barely goes past the blade…

My saw was a ‘freebee’ (grandfather’s 10" Grizzly) too, I had to replace the bearings on the saw, and I need to tighten up the adjustment screws as the blade keeps slipping (or buy a new pulley?).

Way off track from the OP now…

#16

Ken Brunt said:

Purty nifty! I may just get me one of things…

If you do may I borrow it?

Edit:Because I asked politely

#17

I can only say one thing about table saws, Buy The Best One You Can Afford, it will pay off in the long run. I have been a woodworker for many years. It all started back when I was in High School (over 45 years ago). I have been in construction since I graduated College (as a Project Engineer, Superintendent and Project Manager). I have bought many tools, all the way from drills to backhoes and cranes. The one thing I know is quality comes at a price. Cheap tools are cheap for a reason. Back when I was in College (and poor) I bought a cheap Craftsman table saw (a table top model). I could not keep the fence straight and the motor (run by a belt) would not stay aligned with the miter gauge slot. I still had it when I bought my “quality” table saw about 15 years ago and I cursed it every time I used it. It was when my wife said we need new cabinets that I decided I needed another saw. I am not saying go out and buy the best, I am saying check whatever you are looking at for quality construction and ease of set up. I know most of everyone on this site will not be making cabinets or other fine woodworking project, most will be using it in this hobby I love. I am currently making rolling stock for my modest one loop (round-d-round). Some day, I will get into making buildings which my saw and other tools I have will make it much easier to do. Just my 2 cents regarding table saws.

#18

Somewhere I have a picture of the massive bruise on my stomach after learning about kickback on a table saw. Jammed a 2x4 and the saw threw it straight back at me. Whatever you get , I now have a Delta, read and follow all the safety precautions, your fingers and other parts will thank you, and by all means get a zero clearance insert, or make one. If you have a woodworking store, NOT a Home Depot, Lowes or Menards, go there to get at least some information on what you would need. like everyone else, the fence/ blade alignment is key to nice square cuts. happy hunting

#19

Rooster ¿ said:

Ken Brunt said:

Purty nifty! I may just get me one of things…

If you do may I borrow it?

Edit:Because I asked politely

Sure, anytime, just come on down and get it. BTW, it’s in the mail…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#20

I really appreciate all the advice about table saws…I took the plunge and purchased the Craftsman from the local Ace Hardware. Didn’t break my bank account either which is always good when negotiating with the CEO of the railroad. Hopefully will have the chance to put it together and rip a few boards this weekend for my mountain build.

Richard