One more thing done for this project.
This is a little scale house tucked inside the unloading shed.
Then right next to it is a small loading dock.
I’m not really sure the exact details on a lot of these details so I’m just figuring it as I go and discovering more details from photos. I just found a random brick chimney in the middle of the mill for instance.
I’m more
With luck, Craig, this year’s MIK will be “Finish what you started.” Of course, that means you will also have to close this thread come February!
I’m just hoping I can build something for the MIK and not get too distracted. There’s a big hay shed building that’s part of this structure that needs to be completed. I bet I could get that done in 30 days if I really had too.
14 years so far off and on, I’m not sure another 30 day delay is going to change much.
Hopefully I can find some time to keep working on this if the MIK project in 2024 can tie in but I’m really trying to just focus on this building and get it done.
Here’s a few things I’ve been doing.
Foam core mockup to see how things look.
As close as a napkin I can get…
And finally for Rooster. Can he read cursive? 
I don’t think he can read at all, unless its a picture book.
Picture and coloring books are my favorite reads these days. Pop up books are my favorite but after a bad experience with one I’m rather leery on them.
Distraction is a good thing from the MIK project…
I’m plugging away at some small stuff on this building still trying to clear the workshop between now and the 14th.
One large silos painted and UV clear coated and placed out in the layout until this section of the mill gets finished.
Since I’m thinking about using insulation foam for the main building base, should I go with 1 1/2" or 2" foam? And what is the go to bonding method? I recall reading screws and glue but can’t remember the recommendation.
I’m also avoiding making the roof truss for the unloading shed. The roof trusses are very visible in the open shed area, and I’m getting to a point that I can’t move beyond until I build them.
Tight Bond and drywall screws, also Liquid Nails (in the tube) used for paneling and plastic molding.
Even 2" foam will warp in larger pieces so reinforcement is needed.
Trying to decide between 2" foam, PVC or just plain old wood.
I was planning on a bunch of internal bracing.
I’m leaning towards the 2" foam and covering that with some styrene sheets to glue the “details”, doors etc on to. Some of the sheets I think I can just lay the aluminum cans on directly.
We use toothpicks and TiteBond III. The toothpicks hold all the joints until the glue sets. Foam glue won’t hold up to the elements, we’ve found.
Eric
Sounds like Titebond III is the key. And here I was thinking it was only good for wood.
Toothpicks or screws? I’ve got both and I’m pretty sure I’ve got some drywall screws laying around. Holding off for the foam purchase until I can clean out more of the sub assembly messes in the garage.
Craig,
Tight Bond works well for bonding foam to foam but not so much for other materials to foam.
I use a Polyurethane sealant like Vulkim Seal to bond wood or metal (beverage can corrugated metal) to the foam. it is a little messy and takes a while to set/cure but holds really well.
Have had it outside 24/7 for about 3 years on my mill buildings with no problem at all. It is flexible and has a very secure bond.
I’ve just been using silicone caulking to bond the cans to styrene and figured I’d use the same to bond the styrene to the foam, or on sections that didn’t have windows or other details the cans to the foam.
I’ve been experimenting a bit with some small pieces with CA to bond the cans to styrene. Not sure how long it will last but it’s just small sections so if I end up having to rebuild later it’s not tht big of a future issue.
We’ve had mixed results. We ended up going with gutter flashing sealant foro can-to-foam, and, even then, we had to drive some pins through the cans in places.
TiteBond III will work for wood-to-foam, if you go that route. We have used that on all of our foam core buildings to date. The wood will rot before the bond gives.
Eric
Quick question how do you seal the foam from the elements , or where there is ground contact with the foam. Or does it need it?
I was planning on building a frame foundation (wood)for the mill and placing everything on it. That way I can make sure everything is nice and level and is on the layout in the right place. But I’m guessing the foam would be okay in the dirt so to speak as folks use it for tunnels etc?
Thanks. Was looking at making a building out of it sometime soon. And do recall the process I read somewhere online, I think I have the GR stored somewhere
We don’t. There is some evidence of bugs beginning to bore into the foam after a couple of years in the ground, but that is it. I should note, however, we have no freeze-thaw issues out here! 
Eric
We have freeze warnings last night(30* when I got up) and about same tonight! First time since 2021
I might have an opening for plow service in a few days…