I am need of replacing an Aristo switch because my AMS coaches all want to derail because of the tight curve going into the switch and going out. I figure my two options are to replace it entirely with a larger one or move the existing one back so there is a more gradual curve getting into and out of the siding. Does anyone have an opinion on this??
Thanks,
Richard
What kind of switch? If its a a 4 foot diameter then yes a larger one would be preferable. If its a wide radius, then the track geometry could probably be tweaked to make it work better. And the next question; is the switch stock, or have you fixed its shortcomings?
Sorry about that…I have brain block when it comes to posting pictures…oy!! Hopefully the two finally attached give you an idea.
Richard
David, I haven’t done anything to the switch. No modifications or tweaks…its been out on mainline for about 9 years.
9 years, and only now is there an issue with it? I wonder, do the trucks on the AMS coaches swivel freely, and is one of the trucks (per car) able to rock? If the car is set up with a proper 3 point suspension, it will tolerate track-work better. But yes, adding a short piece of straight track before the switch, and making the curve back on the diverging route a bit wider could help.
Longer equipment like a coach can cause problems on tight short switches. Do your coaches have body mounted or truck mounted couplers? It sounds like your cars are not getting enough swing going around the lazy “S” you have setup through that switch.
It looks like you have room to put in a longer straight piece which would help. I’d say try that before buying an expensive wide switch.
My plan is to pull the switch back about 2 feet (closer in the foreground of the 2nd picture that is sideways). And that should allow for more gradual curve.
I’d be interested in learning more about tweaking a switch…I haven’t done it but am willing to give it a try.
Richard
I’d get a right handed switch and use the curved leg next to the bricks and the tangent leg leads into the siding. That will eliminate the reverse curve. Use the switch at the beginning of the curve.
John
looks like an Aristo WR switch, I’d see if you could get a #6 and make it right handed like John suggested, much better geometry.
the WR is about a #4 frog, and it is curved not like most prototypes.
Greg
looks like an Aristo WR switch, I’d see if you could get a #6 and make it right handed like John suggested, much better geometry.
the WR is about a #4 frog, and it is curved not like most prototypes.
Greg
The AMS passenger cars aren’t going to like a reverse curve on a 5’ radius one bit. I’ve got Aristo’s 5’ radius switches on the switching railroad that’s in my workshop. There’s too much overhang on the coaches as they go through the switches, and the couplers end up derailing the coaches. Your only solution is to eliminate the “S” curve coming out of the switch to the siding. John’s idea of using a RH #6 has merit, but you’re going to lose probably around 3’ or more off the length of the siding if you do that.
I can’t really tell from the photos; what is the radius of the curve leading into the switch that’s there now? It looks to be wider than 5’ radius, but it could be the camera angle. If it’s wider (7’ or even 10’ radius), you may want to look at one of TrainLi’s “ProLine” curved switches. I’d suggest using one of those, and moving it further back on the curve. ProLine makes them in 10/7’ and 7/5’ combinations. If you move the switch back further on the curve, even with a 5’ take-off (the same that you have now), your reverse curve can be much gentler because you should be able to work in a decent length of straight track right after the switch without creating too much distance between the mainline and the siding. The downside–those switches aren’t exactly easy on the budget.
Later,
K
Easiest possible solution and worth a try. I do this on all of my Aristo wide radius (10’ diameter) turnouts or my heavyweights will continuously derail.
