Ok how do I fix this LGB switch. Lossing power on the switch.I checked the contacts on the back on both sides of the frog. Thought I had them cleaned off well enough for contact.
Thanks, Bryan
Which switch? R1, R3, or R5. What type of screws? Slotted stainless or philips?
I have added jumper wires on the underside of all the turnouts as I upgrade the track. It takes a little time, but works when you want power to the rail.
It’s an R-5 I believe. Anit has two slotted stainless screws, the rest soldered.
Dan Pierce said:
Which switch? R1, R3, or R5. What type of screws? Slotted stainless or philips?
Would you happen to have a diagram of the Ric, where to jumper from to where.
Thanks
Ric Golding said:
I have added jumper wires on the underside of all the turnouts as I upgrade the track. It takes a little time, but works when you want power to the rail.
Bryan,
I’ve never thought of a diagram, just continue the electrical path from one piece of rail to the same piece of rail after the break or hinge. A lot of it is now done with metal tabs and screws scrapping or rubbing to create a friction electrical path across a brass strap. Sometimes those straps that are tack welded come loose or will come loose in the near future. Instead of the friction path, I just soldier/add a wire that creates a solid electrical connection
Ok thanks Ric, I just did not want to run a wire wrong and get a short. I tend to do things backwards sometimes !
Bryan,
I use an Ohm Meter to check all circuits before I put it back in to the track system. It is really very easy and all done on the underside of the turnout. There are only a couple of places to cut a path through the plastic ties to create a path. I’ve got 4 “new” 1600 turnouts and plan to do some swapping this Spring, I’ll try to get some pictures as I work on the situations.