I am upgrading my garden railroad and in doing so am adding several switches. I always had just two right in the front making it easy to manually throw each switch. But a few will now be a bit less accessible without getting up on layout.
What do you use to motorize your switches? Not sure if this has been addressed but would appreciate some options.
Thanks,
Richard
i use cheep servos off eBay and Tam valley micro singlet. works with dc and dcc.
but this is strictly an indoor setup for me.
AL P.
Eons ago when I had track power, I used LGB machines. They need servicing at least once a year to keep the innards clean. But they worked outside OK. I removed the entire motor for the winter for storing inside.
if you live in a wet climate, that is not so good for electric switchmotors, you could investigate about air-pressure switching.
only electrics at the airpump. on the layout nothing but plastic hoses and air-cylinders.
or, if the distance is not too great, you could use Bowden-/throttle- cables.
I have a couple of tough to reach switches and I used plastic tubing and slid a greased up wire into it. It doesn’t take much to move the points.
The other is a straight shot but this one that sits on a trestle needed a bit more design. yes that is a plastic wheel.
The other end is attached to a building with the plastic tube secured to it and the end of the wire bent over for easy gripping.
I use the LGB turnout motors. As long as they don’t get wet, they will last practically forever. I have some installed in 1997 that still work fine.
I have others that sit in wet spots and the innards will eventually rust needing replacement. I just got like a dozen+ used for $120.
Also, the LGB screw that holds the motor to the tie will rust (depending on the batch) and the swelling will break these ties.
Similar to Todd, I used model airplane push rods and bell cranks to access a switch on my indoor. Not sure how well this would work outdoors. Dirt, not moisture would be the primary problem.
Wow Jon that looks and is so much more professional than my bush fix.
Although Jon’s looks great, your example is cheaper because most of us have scads of plastic wheels in a box tucked away somewhere in the shop. Now they could be useful again, and regain their self respect! 
Thanks everyone…Central California is typically dry most of the year although we do sometimes get some good rain. Thinking of the idea of the LGB turnout motors is there a “water resistant” housing they could be place in side of?
A good friend and member of our club uses an air compressor that sits in his garage. They usually work ok but lately he’s had quite the issues with leakage.
And probably cost 15 times as much! If yours works, it’s just as good.
Has anyone used the RailPro TC-1 in an outdoor setting? I was just reading about it. Since I’m my system runs on RailPro this might be a good option.
…good old choke cables and bell cranks made from flat 2" corner brackets…been using them for years out in all weather…not pretty, but highly functional…and not expensive.
Fweddy
I use an AM-1 on my indoor. I couldn’t make either their “snap” or “motor” modes work with an Aristo switch motor. Their info page says they have made the TC-1 work with several brands of “G” Scale switches.
I ended up re-programming my AM-1 to be an Accessory Module and wrote the code needed to drive servos. It looks like the new TC-1 may have addressed those issues.
The module is not designed for outdoor, so needs to be mounted in a dry environment.
