Large Scale Central

Stencil Painting

Modeling
#1

Gentlemen,

I am struggling with a loco repaint. Specifically the use of a stencil to paint the road name on the side of the long shell on an RS3.

Due to the details on the side I can not get the stencil flat on the shell. Using an airbrush and paint thinned as per the mfg. destructions…I get very blossomed paint edges. Paint is not running just blowing by the raised stencil edge even tho I was very careful to maintain a straight on angle of painting.

Any thoughts on different techniques to counter this problem? What would the following changes likely do?

Thicker paint mix
Increased or decreased distance to shell
reduced pressure

anything else to suggest?

I’d rather get some idea of the probable success of these before I go to the trouble of repainting the shell, make another attempt, then have to repeat that process several time until I get it right.

Its either that or forget the stencil and get transfers.

Thanks

Andre’

#2

I’d go with transfers or decals for a neat looking job. What some do if they really want a paint on instead of decals etc is to paint the area with the lettering the color of the lettering, put vinyl letters on, then paint the locomotive the base color. After that’s dry then remove the vinyl lettering to reveal the painted letters. I just don’t see stencils working unless they have a tacky back like masking tape.

#3

Need some frisket…burnish it down real good…

#4

what da’ 'ell is that?

#5

never mind…I looked it up. I’d need a pretty thick one and it would need to be cut the same shape as the letters…I think transfers is an easier option.

But thanks for the suggestion Bart. I learned something today!

Andre’

#6

Non drying photo mount adhesive sprayed very thinly on reverse of stencil works for me .

Mike

#7

trouble is there are small details like door hinges, handles and such that prevent the stencil from laying, lying (?) directly on the face of the shell.

Andre’

#8

Well , not knowing what the stencil is made of , I hesitate to suggest soaking it to soften it , but an application of thick paint usually helps with stencilling ;altering your spray pressure can help too . I am afraid it’s all down to experience , and practising on something bumpy . Or lumpy .
Or giving up and using decals , only to find the same problem caused by the bumps . Not easy , is it ?
Just bear in mind that I have been modelling for 65 years and am still learning . Just keep trying , it will happen .
Mike

#9

Andre’,

One suggestion…At Office Max the have a printer paper called ‘Bumper sticker paper’. It’s a little plasticy and a heavier grade paper, it has a sticky backing. I’ve printed my logo onto it and then cut it out to create my stencil. Be careful because the adhesive is pretty strong. I use a trick I learned in Art college, that is to place the stencil on my jeans and pull it off. Do that a few times and it lessens the adhesives strength.

As for working around the hinges and handles…you may have to settle for close enough and go back in with a brush to touch them up a bit. If done right after applying a coat of flat finish nobody will see where it’s been touched up.

Hope this helps,
Brian Briggs

#10

It would be far easier to lay the stencil down and pressing hard , imprint it with the marks of the bumpy bits . Then cut out the parts thus outlined
that would hold the stencil away from the surface. . . You can then supplement the stencil with masking tape if necessary , or simple paint over the excess .
You still make no mention of the stencil material .

Mike

#11

Mike,

Thanks for the tips. The stencil is brass Cutting out the areas where the high spots are would work for this loco. But how about the next one? Same task repeated and after awhile I may end up with nothing but bits of brass about!

What type of printer did you use to print on the “bumper sticker” material?

Does anyone know who makes Rio Grande Decals/transfers in Large scale sizes?

Andre’

#12

Andre, why don’t you contact Stan Cederleaf. I’m sure he can come up with something.

#13

Andre ,
A brass stencil is problematic in that respect only . However , its advantages in retaining its shape and viability far outweigh that minor problem .
Apart from adjusting the thickness of your paint , and altering your spraying distance , I cannot suggest anything else . I have no trouble with metal stencils , usaing them a lot on 1/35 scale model tanks --which have far more bumps than locos , believe me .
Perhaps when I use them I subconsciously use a technique that I am not aware of .
One thing , the paint is nearly dry when it hits the target , it is sprayed from a distance compared to area spray .
I have had to resort to a stencil brush occasionally with something really awkward , then trimmed the result with the background paint ;inevitably there is a slight creeping of paint .
If you resort to decals , remember that in the absence of a decal setting solution , vinegar does the same trick of softening the decal so that it snuggles down nicely .

Good luck , keep trying .

Mike

#14

Andre’,

Any inkjet printer would most likely do. I had a cheapie Lexmark printer that worked fine. Since you already have the brass stencil just trace it onto the adhesive backed paper - no printer even necessary. By the way…don’t mistake this bumper sticker paper with the shiny plastic bumper sticker material you may remember from years ago. This stuff is just heavy stock paper that has a matte finish that takes ink from home printers quite well. It’s just an option for you to try.

Brian Briggs

#15

Excellant tips guys…thanks. The bumper paper would cover the surface contours like door louvers and textures. Paint would not likely hide them just color them. I’d prefer the latter.

I’ll give Mike’s tip about thicker paint, extended distance spraying and see what happens.

Andre’

#16

Some other suggestions:

  1. use a thick coat of rubber cement on the back of the stencil, then stick to the model
  2. You can also use clear shelf-paper instead of frisket. It’s a little thicker than frisket but WAY cheaper. Use a hair dryer to make it more pliable
  3. There is also a product called liquid-frisket. You should be able to find that at any store that carries airbrush paint.

Bill W

#17

Andre’,

CDS Lettering made all kinds of lettering for D&RGW, along with RGS, and various other roads. They have stopped producing, but still have some inventory. They only produced Dry Transfers.

You could call Tom Hood on the telephone, at 613-226-5310, to find out what he has left.
If he has any left, that you can use; he will sell it to you directly, and at a fair price.

#18

…note…correction on Tom Hood’s telephone number: 613-226-5310

#19
Fred Mills said:
Andre', 
CDS Lettering made all kinds of lettering for D&RGW, along with RGS, and various other roads. They have stopped producing, but still have some inventory. They only produced Dry Transfers.

You could call Tom Hood on the telephone, at 613-226-5310, to find out what he has left.
If he has any left, that you can use; he will sell it to you directly, and at a fair price.