Now that I have two reverse loops and have the ability to run as a loop to loop. In order to do this I need to spring load my switches so they snap back. My questions is whats the best and easiest way to do this? I know I have seen posts in the past but I cant find any. Thanks
Shawn, I just bent the straight part of the spring in my Aristo manual switch machines. I reduced the pressure the point puts against the stock rail and its been working fine for years. Of course I cannot throw the switches, the points will not seat all the way over, but I don’t care, since my layout wiring is set for the trains to always enter the reverse loops on the straight route through the switch.
I use Aristo manual switch motors in their stock configuration as spring switches. Requires metal wheels and cars with a little heft, but when clean they work great.
I remove the boxes and bend some spring/music wire…
With the throw bar centered, for flop over action I line up the holes in the tie and the throw bar, off center in the throw bar for slip by action.
John
Or, for an alternate on John’s method is the cut safety pin method ala Tom Ruby…
These do not return to their original position like the Aristo spring does. If taken from the trailing side of the point they will snap over when the first wheel set hits and stay there. The Aristo spring will push over at each wheel then return. That is helpful when you do not want the facing point direction to change like on my wye.
EDIT to add: I just re-read John’s post. I see by choosing the hole position you can use this method for Snap or Spring. I just learned something.
I still see an advantage in a standard manual machine. If you need to have the points stay the other way you can flip the lever.
John, it looks like you have some small shims under the points… what am I seeing?
Greg
Small shims under the points…
Had some mystery metal in the back of my pick up truck from some job. Was shiny and thin. I was concerned with the rough surface from UV degradation. Didn’t make much difference with or with out. There was some thought of teflon inserts, then I took a nap…
The throw bar compresses the spring which should describe an arc, reaching the point where Top Dead Center of the arc is, begins decompression which powers the flop over… if set that way.
If the spring isn’t working, pull it open and install under slight compression. It’s a pusher, not a puller.
John
OR, you could do like the ride-on guys do. I’ve had half the parts on hand to do this for years, jut hasn’t made it to the top of my list…
Yeah but… I can throw mine with a section of 3/4 pvc pipe and a screw in it, while standing upright.
My chosen design is about 50 years old…
True Daktah, but the topic is spring loaded, your example is most definitely not spring loaded (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
John, I find Armorall not only slows down the degradation, but can be a bit of lube too, but of course I don’t have your weather there.
Regards, Greg
Mebbe not loaded, but it has slip by springing which does fit the bill. The good Daktah’s concept is good too, 'cept for the bending over part…
John
John Caughey said:
Mebbe not loaded, but it has slip by springing which does fit the bill. The good Daktah’s concept is good too, 'cept for the bending over part…
John
John, its not the bending over that’s hard, its the getting back up. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
OK Greg, I give. What is the difference between your definition of Spring Loaded and what John and I both show? OK, my brass example is snap action so it is Spring Powered, but John’s example when set up for slip-by and my second example from the ride-on I think qualify as Spring Loaded.
John - The bending over part is definitely getting to be a problem. I only use those snap-overs on my indoor track. Outdoors all switches Aristo with manual machines. They work just fine for me in spring by mode for my wye. For sidings I need to flip the throws, but my uncoupling tool gives me anther 6 inches of reach which helps. This is the very reason why any future expansion will probably be on benches in the back yard (take a right at WALL).
Steve - I hear ya. I’ve take to bringing something with me, like a broomstick to help me back up when I know I will be working on the ground. Trouble is I tend to crawl away from it as I work (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)Time for a 4 legged cane?
BTW - We’ve had no comment from Shawn, the OP as to if our examples fill the bill, or if he is meaning something different.
For my switches, I use a “V” spring similar to what John shows above. They work great, but as described, they’re technically called a “rubber” switch throw in that they push over and stay in their new position; they don’t return to the original position. I like them on reverse loops because the train runs in opposite directions around the loop each time the train passes. I’m always amazed at the number of visitors who ask how I do that…
For a “spring” switch (technically described as one that allows the train to pass through in the direction opposed by the points, but have the points return to the original position) I use a Tenmille ground throw located three or four ties up from the actual throw bar. The ground throw is connected to the points via a spring wire with a pivot about 1/3 the distance from the switch throw to the throw bar. (Sorry, no photos handy. I’ll look tonight to see if I have one.) You could put the pivot halfway, but I find moving the pivot closer to the switch throw gives just a little extra pressure on the points to keep them snug against the stock rails.
We have these on many of the switches on my dad’s railroad, after trying a number of other techniques. I tried once building a throw similar to what Daktah showed above (based on a prototypical spring switch mechanism) but due to its small size, the dirt and ballast quickly jammed things up. Simpler may not be prototypical, but it works. 
Later,
K
Kevin they most certainly can be made to be slide by’s, but they cant do both at once. Listen up, every time you say that… it all depends on how you line up the holes.
With the throw bar in the center of the throw; both holes in the center, you get flop over.
With the tie hole in the center, the throw bar hole off center makes the switch a slide by.
John
My fault Daktah!
I thought you had threaded rod, but what I thought was threaded rod was indeed springs! (I viewed the picture on a small display at first, the picture resolution is not high either).
Never knew about the offset hole for a slide by. You guys are great.
No problem Greg.
Kevin - good to know about debris fouling the spring. I actually planned this for indoors, but if I ever do try it outdoors I’ll try and enclose the spring mechanism.
I looked up my article on my hand-laid switch. I made it a spring switch with a brass rod, a spike and by drilling a hole into a tie and into the throw-bar
.
This switch worked fine outside for years. It was replaced mostly because the radius was a bit smaller then it should have been. Ooops
Randy Lehrian Jr. said:
Never knew about the offset hole for a slide by. You guys are great.
I learned by trial and error…
Seems to be a consistent teacher (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)Which side determines the set of the points…
Experiment, we want the lightest wire because some Pony trucks are too light and a stiff spring can pinch them out. All you want is a complete throw and a snug fit.
Here’s my hi-teck upright keeper…
A twist and it flips… I leave one near each switch, I live it up!
John