Large Scale Central

Split Jaw insulating joiners

Track and Trestles
#1

Since I don’t bend the Llagas Creek C215 NS rail insulating the sections happens with 1.5mm styrene pieces and industrial strength CA. Works very well on straight section, however turned out to be a different story in curves (min. 5ft). Expansion and contraction will do the rest, time to get some insulating clamps for those curves.

The only snag is the insulating material is flexible, which results in a slight kink at the joint and the gap between the two brass parts will/could close up . To fix that I insert a 1mm styrene shim in the gap and voilà … smooth joint.

PS excellent service from Split Jaw

#2

Good fix HJ.

BTW, what brand of composite lumber are you using for your ladder roadbed?

#3

TREX, last batch was special order at RONA. I’ll have to check HD and HomeBuilding if they carry stock since I need some more … soon.

#4

Why would you need insulating sections?

#5

Curmudgeon mcneely said:

Why would you need insulating sections?

Because I model the Swiss RhB and, believe it or not, they have insulated sections. Running DCC, having a bit of sparky background and a preference for easy trouble shooting it is the logical next step.

:wink: :slight_smile:

Actually it’s all here , method to the madness and all that good stuff.

#6

Hans-Joerg Mueller said:

Curmudgeon mcneely said:

Why would you need insulating sections?

Because I model the Swiss RhB and, believe it or not, they have insulated sections. Running DCC, having a bit of sparky background and a preference for easy trouble shooting it is the logical next step.

:wink: :slight_smile:

Actually it’s all here , method to the madness and all that good stuff.

HJ - Your link is broken. With the new software when you use the URL tag remove the http:// prefix. Like THIS

BTW - Your block switches in plastic electrical boxes with garden lighting wire look almost exactly like mine. Only difference instead of using a blank cover and exposing the switch handles I used an outlet cover with a ‘Decora’ blank to mount the switches then the weatherproof cover like you have on your throttle box.

#7

Thanks Jon! Shouldn’t the cotton-picking software know better?!?!

#8

I put the “metal” side on the side where the tracks need to be controlled near the ends.

In your picture, I would have reversed sides on each of your joiners. More of a pain in some cases due to room for the long handled driver, but just use the traditional allen wrench style, after all you don’t remove and replace on a daily basis.

Greg

#9

I use those on the traveling “Timesaver” to isolate the different sidings. I tried gluing on a small piece of styrene and that worked at the time, but some fell off during transporting. Solution was a small profile shape of vinyl tape.

#10

Greg Elmassian said:

I put the “metal” side on the side where the tracks need to be controlled near the ends.

In your picture, I would have reversed sides on each of your joiners. More of a pain in some cases due to room for the long handled driver, but just use the traditional allen wrench style, after all you don’t remove and replace on a daily basis.

Greg

Greg

I tried it both ways to arrive at the “no kink” solution.

:wink: :slight_smile:

#11

That’s probably the best answer, but I would think that that if is the “tips” that diverge from the intended “path”, then the metal blocks should control it better.

But, of course whatever produced the best joint is the right answer, as you state.

Greg