Large Scale Central

Some new Kadee-related creations

Modeling Technical Modeling
#1

I posted a 3D printed adapter for the USAT GP9 last spring, but didn’t yet have a printer of my own. Some others (particularly Dan G.) adapted it for some other engines. I don’t know if anyone else has made use of them, but the ones on my GP9 have worked really well.

I have come up with a couple of new ones to share. Here they are:

On the left is a spacer for a 906 draft gear box on the USAT/LGB box cars/reefers with the link & pin pocket. Modification of the car and box is required, but it takes care of the height. Here’s one (black in the photo) installed:

The upper right is an adapter for the 831 gearbox for the rear of the USAT F7. The screw hole on the flange lines up with an original coupler mount screw hole. Then I bolt the gearbox all the way through the floor of the loco. Finally, a self-tapping screw goes at the coupler end of the gearbox. This requires drilling the existing hole all the way through the cover. The reason that the mount is asymmetrical is that I’m using a servo mounted inside the engine with the horn sticking through the floor (not pictured below, but see my previous F3 build thread) to actuate the coupler. Here’s one in place (dry fit):

Finally, the little thing is a replica of the lever that actuates the Kadee remote couplers. It clamps around the “brake hose”. With this, I can use my own servo and actuate any Kadee without spending $40 for their remote coupler.

#2

Neat!

#3

It looks like your adapter only screws to one of the 2 mounting holes in the body. Also, did you set this up to use centerset couplers?

I need a handful of these adapters, but I would really like to have both screws on the mount, I pull some pretty long trains!

Greg

#4

Greg Elmassian said:

It looks like your adapter only screws to one of the 2 mounting holes in the body. Also, did you set this up to use centerset couplers?

You mean the F3 adapter, I assume? There is one of the original screws into the floor. On the gearbox, I put a long machine screw through the large hole in the tail, through the deck, and terminate it with a nut. So there are two screws through the deck. Then there is short screw through the smaller hole in the gearbox that taps into the adapter.

I can easily add the flange on the other side, though. I just left it off to accommodate a servo.

I’ll do it right now. Here you go:

#5

Greg Elmassian said:

It looks like your adapter only screws to one of the 2 mounting holes in the body. Also, did you set this up to use centerset couplers?

I need a handful of these adapters, but I would really like to have both screws on the mount, I pull some pretty long trains!

Greg

Greg,

I am amazed you haven’t bought a 3D printer yet! (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

I also had to modify a coupler pocket for a coach I’m building. Initially, I thought about using the razor saw and cutting the provided one…D’oh - I remembered I had a 3D printer. So, I just went and designed a new replacement.

Of course on implementation, I re-designed it to have a hole…should have done THAT in the first place, but I’m really new to this. Anyway, it worked out REALLY well.

#6

The forum doesn’t seem to like STL files, but here’s a link to the double-flange F3 adapter that Greg is looking for. I made the rear hole smaller so it can take a wood screw like the front one. No need to open the engine. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2572216

Note that this coupler position will make the gap between units (e.g. A and B or B and B) smaller than the stock couplers.

#7

Eric Reuter said:

The forum doesn’t seem to like STL files, but here’s a link to the double-flange F3 adapter that Greg is looking for. I made the rear hole smaller so it can take a wood screw like the front one. No need to open the engine. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2572216

Note that this coupler position will make the gap between units (e.g. A and B or B and B) smaller than the stock couplers.

I’m not sure anybody likes STL files. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)But, I like your link as that allows me to see what you’re talking about. Although I do not have the need for it, it looks like a very nice and easily printed piece. What did you use to design it?

#8

This is how my first F3 is set up. I’m replacing the nylon standoffs with this adapter. You can see why I only have a flange on one side.

#9

Bruce Chandler said:

I’m not sure anybody likes STL files. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)But, I like your link as that allows me to see what you’re talking about. Although I do not have the need for it, it looks like a very nice and easily printed piece. What did you use to design it?

Fusion 360. If there’s another format that’s more useful, I’m happy to try to export.

#10

Well, I SURE would like a few… like umm… 20… unless they fit other USAT locos, then I need more.

Let’s talk!

hmmm… I see you can order it from 3 different places, any recommendations?

Bruce: every time I think about getting one, since someone says I got one for $400 (about the price of a box of good cigars by the way), I go looking, and after about 1/2 hour, the machine I “want” is $4,000… I’m doomed.

Greg

#11

When I ordered printing the past, I used 3DHubs, and was able to get someone in town to do it. I understand that their business model changed recently, and they are choosing providers for you now.

I’d be happy to print a bunch up. Let me get two units done and couple them together to make sure there aren’t any clearance issues. I’ll post some photos. I’m working on a AB set to go with my A.

I did also kluge a standard Kadee remote coupler (906 footprint) onto the front of my original F3A, but I want to make up an adapter for that, too.

#12

Greg Elmassian said:

Bruce: every time I think about getting one, since someone says I got one for $400 (about the price of a box of good cigars by the way), I go looking, and after about 1/2 hour, the machine I “want” is $4,000… I’m doomed.

I got the Prusa i3 Mk2, which has now been replaced by the i3. I’ve found it to be an excellent value at $699 (now $599 - the new one is $749). But I’m an amateur for sure.

Eric

#13

Yeah, while I do use the 906 on rolling stock, I don’t think it’s the best on locomotives, I almost always run at least 2 locos in consist, and more often 3 to 5 locos, and that “slack action” just makes them bounce back and forth.

Eric, let me know, I have a ton of locos to convert, since I am still working, my projects are piling up… I have 2 consists of USAT F3 to put online… an ABBA freight, and the red and silver AABBBA (yes I have a picture of that consist with a Mikado helper up Raton pass)

Right now I have the crappy large offset couplers on the posts, a mess…

Greg

#14

I’ll keep you posted. The servo-actuated coupler uses a 906 footprint, but since it incorporates the tiny servo, the coupler itself is actually a 901, so there’s no slack.

#15

Yep, I need a mount for 901 couplers… with the loads I’m pulling offset couplers flex like the dickens, and then I’ve got issues with the uncoupling arm, etc.

I’d love to put remote control couplers on my locos, but really too expensive… but maybe on the last loco of a consist… So far the magnetic uncoupler and the “delayed uncoupling” is working OK…

You say the i3MK2 is replace by the i3? Looks like there’s an i3 MK3, is that what you meant? So should I buy the MK2, or wait for November for the MK3? I assume the kit can be put together by a somewhat mechanically adept person (I’ll have to find one ha ha)…

Thanks, Greg

#16

I bought the Mk2 in March, waited about 8 weeks for it (backordered), and then didn’t find time to put it together until August. It takes several hours to assemble and calibrate, but it’s not too difficult. I haven’t really looked at the Mk3, since I kind of don’t want to know what I’m missing. It was just announced a few days ago.

#17

More Z, filament feeder grips both sides of the filament, and magnetic base that holds thin metal sheets you print to, and then the sheet pops off and flexes to release part.

Guess they went to 24v motors, but no significant improvement from that.

https://all3dp.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3-review/

jeeze, I’m getting the bug again… ok budget of $1,000… that’s under the radar…

Greg

#18

So Eric…regarding USAT and LGB reefers, of which I have many…are you saying those 3 pieces in the top picture are all you need to accommodate a 906 coupler, in addition to cutting the square “pocket” frame off the end of the car? And did you glue the spacer on the bottom of the car or do you have 3 screws going all the way through the bottom floor of the car (with nuts on the other side?). I don’t see all 3 pieces in that picture. Also, did you cut into the bolster there for wheel clearance purposes, or was that a mistake?

Some kinda drawing/picture would help to clarify where those 3 pieces go and how those screws secure the coupler pocket to the underside. Thanks!

#19

The screws are #4 wood screws (same as what is provided with the couplers, but stainless), and the printed part is just a spacer. I did a few of these with individual nylon spacers, and this just simplifies it. It does requires removing the middle two members of the undercarriage in that area, and modifying the gear box to fit in there. You could certainly cut a slot in the end of the car to accommodate the whole gear box, but I wanted to retain as much of the original look as possible.

I detailed the modifications in a thread on MLS: http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/77425-kadee-couplers-usat-woodside-reefers-3.html

#20

Oh, and the scar on the bolster is where I removed the truck-mounted coupler.