Is it possible, if so how??
I purchased some code 250 aluminum rail track that I used on my reversing track setup in my basement.
I am currently using some LGB track power connectors so it will work but I really need to change them out as they are to big for the code 250 rails and some locomotives and cars don’t travel over them well.
I managed somehow (luck) to solder one wire onto the rails at one end, it was a royal pain and had to get the rail very hot in order for the solder to make and hold the connection.
Just seeing if there is a easier way (correct way) to solder wires to aluminum rails.
Thanks
Aluminum doesn’t really solder well I don’t think. I have brazed some together but even that was a bit tricky. Be interesting. To hear what others have to say but I am not sure you can solder copper to aluminum. What about soldering on small ring terminals and then drilling the rail and bolting them on in the web?
Use a 0-08 bolt with the head on the inside of the rail and then the ring terminal and nut on the outside
The article is great Rooster, if I only understood what it was saying it would be even better!
I need simple instructions.
Is there a certain solder I should use, if so what?
It says I need to use flux…is flux, flux, or is there a particular type?
Should I use a fine grade sand paper to prep the area I am soldering?
I am using a 40 watt(?)soldering iron and some basic 60/40(?) solder I bought years ago from when Radio Shack was a thriving business.
I used to be great at soldering up batteries when I raced R/C cars years ago, but that’s the extent of my knowledge.
I have read that they now have soft solders that will do a good job on aluminum. Having worked in a sheet metal fabrication shop for many wears we tried every new product that came down the track that claimed it would give good results on aluminum. Never found one that was simple, reliable, and gave good results. Some would work and gave pretty fair results sometimes, if the moon was in the correct phase and you held your tongue just right. Now having said that, I have been out of the trade for more than fifteen years so there well could be some product that is giving satisfactory results now.
When I hand laid my first outdoor railroad in 1997 I used 6011 aluminum rail and track power on hand sawn ties. I used small brass machine bolts threaded into the end of the rail web from the outside of the rail and cut off flush on the inside. I then soldered copper jumper wires to the bolt head then soldered the wire ends together. I know some one will express concerns about electrolysis from the dissimilar metals and in some cases that is a legitimate concern. In my opinion rail on the ground is not one of those cases. MY track was in service, buried in the dirt, for the better part of 10 years with no problems or concerns related to my jumper wire connections.
Of course YMMV
Rick
Hard soldered rail is all the rage these days!
this post has been edited by: Rooster
3-1 oil
editing for post count concerns
That article was great will be very useful
Thanks Greg, I notice they have 90/10 solder with that kit as compared to the 60/40 I have been trying to use.
Will have to go take a walk around the hardware stores and see what I can come up with.
I only use the 60/40 solder for electrical connections anymore. I prefer to use the silver bearing plumbers solder for most everything else anymore. But, since aluminum is difficult to solder, I would use what is recommended, at least at first.
I’m to lazy I would use
I have inserted a thin piece of brass between the rail and tie many times for a quick connection. Indoors this should work as corrosion would be at a minimum. And we know soldering to thin brass would be very easy with a 40 watt iron. For rail it would take a much bigger iron. My WELLER 350 WATT JUST MAKES IT ON CODE 332!!
I am building my layout in rails alu code 250 and it is very easy to weld them in particular the points of heart by following this method:
There are a number of videos on Youtube showing how to “weld” aluminum (really brazing I think since the parent metal is not melted) with durafix, Alumiweld (available at Harbor Freight) and Alutight and probably more materials using just a propane torch.
I will soon be trying it to connect some rail car frames I’m going to make from aluminum channel. Previously I used home made brass angle with JB Weld as the adhesive to join the frame parts.
I assume the aluminum brazing rod material would conduct electrons like the aluminum rail does.