I’m currently getting ready to put power to the tracks for those in need. I’m a battery guy and haven’t powered a track since I had HO as a kid!
Are people soldering jumpers on their track or using rail clamps or ??? Thanks
I am in the Northeast US. I use SS Rail joined with the Aristo screw joiners with the larger Phillips head track screws (removed from tie strips). I use Split Jaw clamps at all switches and bridges. My track has been outside for 5 years. This spring my first track powered train required ZERO joint maintenance and only a soft cloth wipe of the rail.
Last time I had track power, I had stainless track and used plain aristo joiners and screws. To attach a wire, I crimped a lug onto it, and put it under the screw of a split jaw railclamp.
When I ran out of clamps, I soldered wires to old brass joiners and put them in place of the stainless joiner.
I also use Aristo track and their screw system. I use the cheap Aristo clamps on switches, problem areas and about every
8-10 feet. I use one foot sectional track, so I’ll screw 8 or 10 sections together and use the clamps to secure it to the rest of the track.
The Aristo rail clamps also have a terminal for power. Not too pretty, but they work.
Ralph
Unless you have a very large soldering iron and are experienced with soldering heavy material like your rail, I would use a clamp to connect the wires to your track. If you aren’t careful with a soldering iron, you can melt your ties.
I have used Split-Jaw rail clamps for the past 10 years with no problems (but I still had to clean track, wheels, etc - ugh!)
I have the soldering iron but not the skill. The more I think about rail clamps the more I like them! I can get in enough trouble without a soldering iron to go with it! Besides, I too was concerned about melting the ties. If I was hand laying rail I might tackle it but since all the track is laid I’d rather not screw it up.
I’ve tried soldering and had no luck at all. Melted the ties.
Aristo’s screw system is surprisingly good. I’ve got sections of my layout that have only aristo screw joiners and they are working just fine. I’ve also not found any great difference between brass and stainless steel. I have about half stainless and can’t see any big advantage, although I know may people swear by it and I don’t doubt their findings. It just did not make that big a difference to me.
Split jaw clamps are great but I’ve also had good luck with some of the cheaper kind. Aristo’s clamps are extremely convenient an easy to install and they are inexpensive. They are not as robust as the split jaws but they do the job. I have a lot of different kinds of clamps my layout–hillman, split jaw, aristo, san val and I just boght some from Train-li which look good to me, but I haven’t tried them yet
Doug,
I have long straight runs and used Jack Verduccis method with a mini torch and 60/40 rosin core solder and swear by it. I hard solder the rails together in 15 to 20’ lengths/sections over Aristo factory railjoiners. Those sections are joined with Hilmans and split jaws(great product) but can get expensive. I slide all my ties back the rail about 6" away from the heat of the mini torch. I feed both of my loops at only one point with 12 gauge garden lighting wire and has worked excellent for 3yrs now in Central PA.
I have soldered sections without moving ties but always end up distorting a tie or so…trick is get in with the heat and get out then hit with wet rag for clean joint. I can see the rail change color and know its time for solder but I know your eyesight is poor so this may be difficult for you.
Hope this helps and only adding as solder is much cheaper than the clamps.
I use a combination of split jaw clamps and the Aristo joiners. One suggestion that I haven’t seen so far is to clean the joiners and rail first with a Dremel brush, and then coat the entire thing with conductive paste before assembly. I do this with both joiners and split jaw. Seems to keep corrosion at bay pretty well. I use the Aristo black stuff.
JT
I’m using Train - Lee’s Rail clamp. At $1:40 apiece It’s not to bad.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/smcgill_pics/railclamps008.jpg)
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/smcgill_pics/railclamps012.jpg)
They seem to be SS with a copper coating. I know its standard head but a good screwdriver works great.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/smcgill_pics/railclamps009.jpg)
Not to bad when you add the ballast.
Doug,
I have soldered a great deal of our powered loops over the years, using sold brass wire as a connection between sections of track. I’ve done it in place outside and large sections on the work bench and then manuevered outside to the location. Once it is in place and established in the ballast and vegetation, it becomes a different battle if you have a break or want to make a change. Slowly over the years, I have used many of the different rail clamps for the quick fix when a soldered joint gave out. I’ve used the Split Jaw, Hillman, San Val and even a set of the new “Train Li” (sp?) clamps. This really became a big part of the turnout upgrade when I added Tenmille ground throws to most of the turnouts. I guess, I have comfortably settled with the Split Jaws.
Our track floats in most locations, so many times the clamps are used to hold things together, since the track is not anchored. I keep a box of both the over the clamp and “straight to the rail” clamps on hand for repair and expansion.
Like many, I have eliminated power to most of my outside trackage. And over the last couple of years the outside track that is powered has not had the power maintained to it. That is just evolution of my involvement in my hobby. But as I said in the above paragraph, I use rail clamps to help hold it all together.
Good luck in your endeavor and I’m sure you will reach you own conclusion as you persue your interest.
I just hook my wires up to the screws on a couple of clamps. Just one connection for the 135’ loop. I have clamps all around, used some di-electric silicone in the clamps and cleaned the rail ends good before clamping. Works great.